WildRice
Flashlight Enthusiast
OK, like I said in another post I have been using a AA MM with a SMJLED kit and a resistored Li-ION battery. Very nice by the way, but I have found that it is rather difficult to hold it in your mouth while working. I therefore got a AAA MM and bored out the reflector to fit the SMJLED. I have been using the stock AA batteries that came with the MM, but they were only driving the LED to about 40mA or so. I wanted to keep the functionality of the head mechinism , so this left a few choices. ONE, use a Li-ION AAA with a resistored spacer. TWO build a boost module for it. I chose TWO.
In a nutshell here is what I did. I removed the innards of the stock switching parts. I soldered 2 wires to it. one to the negative contact (very tricky, had to remove a small amount of plastic) and a second wire to the original positive terminal.
I cut a piece of 3/8 dowel rod and made 2 groves in the sides. I then cut down a dorcy AAA board to get rid of the 'wings' on it'. the dowel and the dorcy board are about the same length as a AAA battery.
Wired it together to the spring on the dorcy board hits the positive on the battery, the positive output on the dorcy goes to the positive terminal on the LED, and the negative on the original part (which is switched) goes to the NEG on the LED and the dorcy board (which is normal).
now just by looking at it with the head off, it looks stock, except for the LED.... but when the tail is opened, only ONE battery falls out. I havent had a chance to check the LED current yet, but it is at least 70mA (by eye).
The AAA disent throw as good as the AA reflector, but the form factor makes up for it.
side by side sizes of the AA and the AAA
See how the switch parts looks stock...
Innards
Closeup of the 'drop in'
Jeff
In a nutshell here is what I did. I removed the innards of the stock switching parts. I soldered 2 wires to it. one to the negative contact (very tricky, had to remove a small amount of plastic) and a second wire to the original positive terminal.
I cut a piece of 3/8 dowel rod and made 2 groves in the sides. I then cut down a dorcy AAA board to get rid of the 'wings' on it'. the dowel and the dorcy board are about the same length as a AAA battery.
Wired it together to the spring on the dorcy board hits the positive on the battery, the positive output on the dorcy goes to the positive terminal on the LED, and the negative on the original part (which is switched) goes to the NEG on the LED and the dorcy board (which is normal).
now just by looking at it with the head off, it looks stock, except for the LED.... but when the tail is opened, only ONE battery falls out. I havent had a chance to check the LED current yet, but it is at least 70mA (by eye).
The AAA disent throw as good as the AA reflector, but the form factor makes up for it.
side by side sizes of the AA and the AAA
See how the switch parts looks stock...
Innards
Closeup of the 'drop in'
Jeff