Surefire L4 Question

ront

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Hi all, I have been lurking for a while and just recently joined. This is my first post. Great forums.
I just bought a Surefire L4 yesterday. I had a real hard time deciding between the L4 and the E2L. The L4 is an awesome light and I do like it. My question is, will the KL1 lamp assembly by chance fit the L4 body? I just don't know. Thanks for any info.

Ron
 

lrp

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Hi Ron, you made an excellent choice! I have the KL1 and E2E and my next light will be the L4 as I want more flood and sidespill. The KL1 is really neat and throws good.
 

pcaf

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Hi Ron, I'm also new here, another nice option for E-series bodies is the Aleph series 1,2, and 3 heads from the sandwich shoppe, high quality, they also have 2 stage tail caps. I have a KL1 on Aleph body and they mate perfectly with a two stage tail. Legos!

Paul
 

greenLED

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Welcome aboard, Ront!

Other people have already answered your question. Let me add, that you may want to get a McGizmo 2-stage switch to enhance the functionality of your L4. Those are available from "The Sandwich Shoppe", to which you can find a link in my "CPF Specials" thread (link in sigline). Hopefully you'll find something else that might interest you (like batteries!).

Also, make sure to browse theledmuseum.org and flashlightreviews.com if you haven't done so yet. Loads of excellent info on both sites.
 

ront

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Thanks for the welcome guys and the info, although it looks like I have much to learn!! So I take it that the L4 is built on the E-series bodies? It looks like I made a good choice as the KL1 lamp assembly is much cheaper to buy than the KL4, is that correct? I will check out the Aleph series 1,2 and 3 heads as well as the McGizmo 2-stage switch at "The Sandwich Shoppe". The 2 stage switch is something I am very interested in at this point.
I am also interested how the KL1 lamp will compare with the Surefire G2? I believe the G2 is around 60 lumens and the KL1 is around 30 lumens, but how do they compare?
Thanks again for the info. I really do appreciate it. It was really hard for me to spend the $$ on the L2, but it does seem like a great light.

Thanks, Ron

Sorry, I just looked for "The Sandwich Shoppe", and I don't see it. Am I blind! Thanks
 
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GWC3

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I'll echo what greenLED said about the 2 sage mcgizmo switch. they are sweet and I hahve them on my L4 and e2L.
 

greenLED

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ront said:
So I take it that the L4 is built on the E-series bodies? It looks like I made a good choice as the KL1 lamp assembly is much cheaper to buy than the KL4, is that correct? I will check out the Aleph series 1,2 and 3 heads as well as the McGizmo 2-stage switch at "The Sandwich Shoppe". The 2 stage switch is something I am very interested in at this point.
I am also interested how the KL1 lamp will compare with the Surefire G2? I believe the G2 is around 60 lumens and the KL1 is around 30 lumens, but how do they compare?
Thanks again for the info. I really do appreciate it. It was really hard for me to spend the $$ on the L2, but it does seem like a great light.

Thanks, Ron

Sorry, I just looked for "The Sandwich Shoppe", and I don't see it. Am I blind! Thanks

Yes, the L4 is based off the E-series. So, you can use the incan heads, the KL1, even the E2D bezel if you'd like. ;)

Yes, your choice was a sensible one, from many perspectives - price and upgradeability being one of them.


I'm not sure I understand your question about comparing the G2 against the KL1. The G2 is an incan, the KL1 LED, so it's a little like comparing grapes and coconuts. :) The KL1 has a squarish beam (for throw) with a few rings on the outside. Some people (aka "wall hunters") don't like it - I do, very much.

Here are the results of a search for "McE2s" at the Shoppe. AS you'll see these come in different styles and you can choose the resistor value of your preference (more resistance= dimmer). For more on these, check McGizmo's forum, there's a FAQ sticky thread there with lots of info.
 

ront

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Again, thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate it! I have found "The Sandwich Shop". Cool!!
Sorry my question was confusing greenLED. I realize the G5 is incan and the L4 LED. I am just wondering about throw and being able to use the L4 with the KL1 lamp for a defence light. Or would there be a better choice of lamp to purchase?

Thanks, Ron
 

pcaf

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Hi Ron, go here in this forum, "McGizmo" then about 5 lines down you'll see "McGizmo Product Overiew" and you will see all/some of the parts that will work with your E series, some of the pics. at the sandwich shoppe don't have a lot of detail. I originally posted the link but I think that's a nono for band width on here. Oops.

Paul
 
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ront

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Ok, this is all pretty new to me. The Sandwich Shoppe looks like some great stuff. I am very interested in a 2-stage switch, but I have no idea which one to choose. There are several to choose from and along with that I have no idea what the different resistor values do. I am sure that they affect the brightness in the different stages, but what is a good value to go with? Are any of the switches the same color as the Surefire?
Sorry for all of the questions. Thanks for the help.

Ron

Where would be the best place to buy the Surefire KL1 Lamp?
 

greenLED

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No prob asking lots of questions, ront!

The "natural" HA is the same finish as your L4. Be aware, however, that there are slight tint variations due to the material used (they're all aluminum, but different batches, etc. so the anodizing results won't be a perfect match); this is considered normal and doesn't affect performance.

The higher the resistor value, the lower the light output you'll have while on "low". The resistor is bypassed on "high", so you'll get the same output as if you didn't use a 2-stage switch while on high. Which one to choose/recommend is really tricky because we all have slightly different preferences and use our lights a bit differently.

From the 2-stage switches I've used, I find 22-30 Ohms is about right for my uses, but let me qualify that as follows. If I wake up in the middle of the night (eyes are completely dark adapted), I find 22 Ohms on the verge of being too bright for 1-2 seconds; I'm fine after that. The "shock" is not as bad when I use 30 Ohm. On the other hand, if I start using my light with non-dark adapted eyes, I can see better with 30 Ohms than with 22 (might be slightly "dim" for a few seconds, but then my eyes compensate). Now, the two-stages I have setup are lights with a 3 Watt Luxeon (LuxIII) light, not a 5-Watt (LuxV) such as the L4, so the total amount of light we're talking about will differ).

Did you get a chance to read those Sticky threads on the McGizmo forum? Kiessling posted some nice pics of all the different styles the tailcaps come in (there's flared, and flat-top, trim, etc.

:laughing: I knew I'd forget something. :) Follow the "CPF Specials" link in my sigline, and from there go to OpticsHQ. Make sure to read the ir "membership" instructions carefully (there's a link in the specials thread) to make sure you get full advantage of our discounted price. :)sssh: You won't find cheaper prices elsewhere.)
 
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ront

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Thanks a lot for the help greenLED. I am looking at the info you have supplied. Thanks for the info on the resistor value. I think I like the Bold tail cap although the Standard or the Trim looks like it would allow the light to stand on it's end.
I will also check out the CPF Specials link.

Thanks again, I really appreciate the help!!

Ron
 

Sixpointone

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Welcome to the SureFire L4 club! I've had one for over a year now and it has yet to let me down.
 

greenLED

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Sixpointone said:
Welcome to the SureFire L4 club! I've had one for over a year now and it has yet to let me down.
Did you guys in the "club" ever get around to making the t-shirts you were talking about? Although I have a U2 (and now an L1 :thanks: PK!) I may still "need" :) the L4 at some point.
 
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