Anyone mod a non-Ultra with a CS?

I recently bought a non-Ultra Infinity with a blue LED... The output is alright, but the beam pattern from that blue LED is... well... pitiful. I was thinking of modding it with a CS or a Peak Snow29 LED mostly for a better beam pattern.

So... anyone mod the low output non-Ultra Infinity with a brighter LED? Seems like it would be pretty useful. Using today's more effecient LEDs, might it even be as bright as an Infinity Ultra with the stock LED?

Anyone know for sure how much current is sent to the stock non-Ultra Infinity LED?

~65mA, IIRC

It's doable; check the ArcAAA LED replace thread for instructions. The procedure is basically the same, but the Infinity's crimp is much thicker and will break off (doesn't affect later functioning). While you're at it, polish the reflector.

65ma, huh? From the non-Ultra Infinity?

That's quite a lot! I was guessing closer to 10ma or 20ma or so.

I've yet to take an Infinity apart though I'm sure I can make it work. Sounds like it would give very good brightness and great runtime!

I misread your post. I was talking about the Infinity Ultra. Sorry about that. The modding instructions do apply, though.

I have two CMG Infinity Task Lights (non-ultra) with nichias CS-C0 (U bin). Long time ago I've got rid of the "black dot" on the board that they came with.

The output now is almost as bright as a non-modded Ultra-G. I cannot compare them any more because I've swapped leds on my two Ultra-G's as well.

The outcome of the mod was a much brighter light (I'd say about double) with an excellent runtime, and much better tint.

I absolutely recommend the "simple" mod, but be aware that it is kind of difficult to access the led connectors.

The epoxi in these lights is harder and heat resistant. I've tried the boiling method, and doesn't work for these Infinities.

I had a very serious complication when trying to take the epoxi off the board. I ended up with a broken inductor (solved later on with lots of patience and work). Take just enough epoxi off the board with an exacto knife or similar to access the led connectors and nothing more. Swap the led and reassemble with silicone sealant (not epoxi).

Voila!!

HGB said:

I absolutely recommend the "simple" mod, but be aware that it is kind of difficult to access the led connectors.

The epoxi in these lights is harder and heat resistant. I've tried the boiling method, and doesn't work for these Infinities.

Click to expand...

Heat has worked everytime for me. I do boil them for about 10minutes, though. Since the potting resin cools down really fast, I pour some of the boiling water into a cup and put the "pill" in there as I clean the epoxy. Gives you a couple of extra minutes of "soft" time (and sometimes a couple of burnt fingertips too :green.

greenLED said:

Heat has worked everytime for me. I do boil them for about 10minutes, though. Since the potting resin cools down really fast, I pour some of the boiling water into a cup and put the "pill" in there as I clean the epoxy. Gives you a couple of extra minutes of "soft" time (and sometimes a couple of burnt fingertips too :green.

Click to expand...

Hey greenLED,

I'm talking about the "black dot" CMG Infinity Task Light (the oldest Infinities available, I believe).

The boiling method worked out for me only to take the pill out of the head. After that, I've tried boiling the pills over half an hour, and nothing substantial happened (actually, the potting epoxi became just a tiny bit softer, but that was all). Also tried with hot air, with the same result.

With the Ultras I've just used an exacto knife at room temperature.

Ah, I see. Got confused.

Yeah, I have one of those (black dots), but I don't intend to touch it - it's a historical piece of my flashaholic collection. They're not the oldest Infinities, though. The earliest ones had reverse polarity (positive went down the tube), the negative contact was a curved piece of metal on the circuit board (which was not potted), the circuit was different as well, and they were powder-coated. I had two of those; gave away one (I'm still ), I gutted the other out of curiosity - ended it's days as a mirror-polished MM+ LuxI mod.

I used to have one of those where the positive end when in first... Gave it away... Might try to trade it for a regular Infinity Ultra.

Back to the CS in the non-Ultra... that's exactly my goal... The brightness of the regular Infinity Ultra but with the longer runtime of the non-Ultra. I probably would do it with a Snow29 LED though to get that beautiful white tint but I guess I'll put that project on the back burner for now.

Thanks for the help guys.

i had one of the first non-ultra infinities, where the battery is plus down (and the head has no black dot). it came in red. i swapped the led for a white one, and the output was just about the same as my ultra-G.