Nuwai Q-3 Question

I just received a Nuwai Q-3 from Amondotech and it has the non-tactical, reverse-clickie with momentary only after switched on.
Is it certain that this also means it's using the older electronics with lower current drain? Which would actually be ok since it's plenty bright enough. I haven't done a run-time test yet.
However this one is fairly green in LED tint, so I may get another one. I figured all of the older ones would have been out of the supply chain by now unless this was a return due to LED tint. It's not terrible but certainly not white.
Also if I go with the rechargeable lithium-ion, will it make a difference regarding danger to the LED and electronics with the older version or have people been doing this successfully with both versions for awhile?

The higher drive circuit was available with the reverse clickie also, so you likely have the newer circuit. Of the 4x Q3s I ordered from Amondotech, only 1 had the new clickie (tho, I actually like the reverse clickie better for the Q3s as the new one is much harder to push and sticks out further).
For R123As, many have been doing it regardless of circuit. Everyone says the driver is bypassed when running R123As, but I plan on opening up the head to measure the LED's VF to confirm that.

jsr said:

The higher drive circuit was available with the reverse clickie also, so you likely have the newer circuit. Of the 4x Q3s I ordered from Amondotech, only 1 had the new clickie (tho, I actually like the reverse clickie better for the Q3s as the new one is much harder to push and sticks out further).
For R123As, many have been doing it regardless of circuit. Everyone says the driver is bypassed when running R123As, but I plan on opening up the head to measure the LED's VF to confirm that.

Click to expand...

I'd be interested in your measurements.

I've had several Q3s... probably close to 10 counting modded ones and I've yet to see a single one that had a truly nice tint from the stock LED. I'm not saying none of them have good tints, but I've never seen one.

Fortunately, the Q3 is one of the very easiest LED lights to modify. Also, if run on a rechargeable R123 cell, it does get quite a bit brighter and the hotspot gets larger. I've been under the impression that it basically goes into direct drive with an R123 cell so while the LED is driven a bit harder, it's not really quite abusing the LED. To be a bit safer, I'd probably go with a K or L Vf Lux III.

The good news is, after you modded the light with a TW0K or TW0L or similar, you get an almost guaranteed excellent tint along with a light that will be super bright.

There are also 2 stage tailcaps available and my TW0J Q3 had a 2 stage clickie and on an R123 cell, even on low, it was very impressive.

In real-world testing last night my L1P is clearly brighter than my Q3, although the Q3 has a broader hotspot. I think it would be useful for closer work and definitely will be helpful for sucking down the several dozen CR123's that I had first used with my E2e+KL1 head. But I'm less impressed with its performance in stock configuration than I had hoped. Does this seem unusually dim given its reputation? I know I did get really good examples of L1P, L2P and even a Dorcy Metal Gear which is right there neck and neck. Maybe this Q3 was just a lottery loser. I haven't detected anything like flickering that might indicate a potential problem, and I've used several known-good batteries. Looks like I'll be trying the 3.6V route soon or maybe return it before that if this sounds like a lemon to you folks.

RebelXTNC said:

In real-world testing last night my L1P is clearly brighter than my Q3, although the Q3 has a broader hotspot. I think it would be useful for closer work and definitely will be helpful for sucking down the several dozen CR123's that I had first used with my E2e+KL1 head. But I'm less impressed with its performance in stock configuration than I had hoped. Does this seem unusually dim given its reputation? I know I did get really good examples of L1P, L2P and even a Dorcy Metal Gear which is right there neck and neck. Maybe this Q3 was just a lottery loser. I haven't detected anything like flickering that might indicate a potential problem, and I've used several known-good batteries. Looks like I'll be trying the 3.6V route soon or maybe return it before that if this sounds like a lemon to you folks.

Click to expand...

Rebel:
Have both L1P and Q-III, on primary CR123s I get the same results. Output on the Q-III goes up quite a bit on RCR123s, which is what I normally use. Don't have the ability to quantitatively measure, but I generally find the L1P (normally loaded with a lithium AA) output is about halfway between the Q-III on primaries and rechargeables.

I would recommend you try the rechargeable route before returning it.

OK, thanks for the info!

I opened up my Q3 just now and measured the VF on R123As and it only read 2.8V! That's really really low! Did I get a super low VF bin Lux3? Can't see how my measurement could be off...just a DMM across the + and - of the LED. Anyways, if my measurement's right and I "do" have a ultra-low VF Lux3, then I guess the circuit really is bypassed. Tho, that still seems too low.
I tried opening up my V2 also and damn that thing's on tight. I scratched up the finish in a few places and couldn't get it opened.

jsr said:

I opened up my Q3 just now and measured the VF on R123As and it only read 2.8V! That's really really low! Did I get a super low VF bin Lux3? Can't see how my measurement could be off...just a DMM across the + and - of the LED. Anyways, if my measurement's right and I "do" have a ultra-low VF Lux3, then I guess the circuit really is bypassed. Tho, that still seems too low.
I tried opening up my V2 also and damn that thing's on tight. I scratched up the finish in a few places and couldn't get it opened.

Click to expand...

What bin code led star is in there?
Lift it up gently after you unscrew the plastic retainer with needlenose pliers.
Probably an ***H bin.

For R123's, I just simply keep several good R123's handy.
I have bypassed the circuit board electronics in order to direct drive the led from the li-ion battery.
This works like a champ with maximum efficiency and brightness.
I have a dd UYOK Q3 that I use to read street addresses at night, while hunting down my delivery destinations for auto parts.

jsr said:

I opened up my Q3 just now and measured the VF on R123As and it only read 2.8V! That's really really low! Did I get a super low VF bin Lux3? Can't see how my measurement could be off...just a DMM across the + and - of the LED. Anyways, if my measurement's right and I "do" have a ultra-low VF Lux3, then I guess the circuit really is bypassed. Tho, that still seems too low.
I tried opening up my V2 also and damn that thing's on tight. I scratched up the finish in a few places and couldn't get it opened.

Click to expand...

JSR, are you using 3.0v or 3.7v RCR123?

jsr, any new info?

I retested it again at home on a cheapy Radio Shack DMM and I still read about 2.93V. The DMM I used at work is a nice Fluke, but about the same reading as my cheapy Radio Shack ones (I've only noticed big diffs in current readings when using cheap vs. good DMMs). So far, both measurements showed in the range of 2.85V-2.93V.
I'm running a 3.6V LiIon R123A for both measurements. Not sure why it's so low. I did look at the star bin, but forgot what it was. It wasn't an H-bin tho, I think it was a K-bin. Regardless, if it really is direct drive, I should have read 3.6V or so. Not sure why it's so low. Perhaps my R123A battery was draining down already? I'll try to test again on a fresher charged R123A, but the R123A shouldn't be at 3V until it's almost dead and I had plenty of runtime left after doing the measurements.

What's different about the latest version of the Q3?

How does the clickie differ from the old Q3?

Does the new one come with a pouch or lanyard?

I think I must have gotten luckyin the Lottery. My Q3 that I received last week is very Bright and White. While I'm pretty satisified with my KL1 on my FB2 body, it pails in direct comparison with the Q3. The KL1 looks very blue in the hotspot and the Q3 looks white as snow. I'm usuing Surefire batteries in the KL1 and the Panasonic that came with the Q3. I'm truly amazed at the Q3 and am thinking about adding a couple more. I have yet to try a Fenix, they sound interesting though.

Regards Sonny

I received my first Q3 yesterday from lighthound. It seems to be a very well built little instrument. I love that green body. It has a nice shaped beam and puts out a good bit of light on the industrial panasonic cr123 that came with it. Alas, I lost the lottery. It has a very distinct purple beam. My Dorcy super 1 watt 3aaa outshines it in overall output and throw. But it is after all about half the size of the Dorcy.

I may try a rechargeable 123 in it. Anyone recommend a good brand of charger and battery?

I got a Nano charger and battery from Lighthound for my Q3. I have the older version and it works great with the rechargeables. Just remember not to over discharge the battery.





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Update on the Q3 I received a couple of days ago. The tail switch has gone defective on me. It will no longer "click" on. There is no click at all. I must keep the switch depressed continuously for the light to work.

I have contacted the vendor by email to see if I can get it fixed or replaced. Meanwhile, in my infinite wisdom I have ordered a 3 watt IOTA from another vendor.

Bozzlite, who did you buy the Nuwai Q-3 from? Can you send it back to Nuwai?

widget said:

Bozzlite, who did you buy the Nuwai Q-3 from? Can you send it back to Nuwai?

Click to expand...

Widget, I bought the Q3 from Lighthound through his Ebay store. Or, one can go directly to Lighthound.com.

Since I just emailed him earlier today (Sunday) about the problem, I don't really expect an answer until tomorrow. He has an extremely high rating on Ebay, in fact no negative feed back at all, so I am confident that he will help me with the tail switch.

I would be hesitant if I have to send it back to Nuwai. Geez, they are in China somewhere, LOL.

Also widget, to answer a couple questions in one of your earlier posts, the new Q3 comes with a sheath...no lanyard. The older Q3 had a reverse clickie. The new Q3 is brighter (so I have heard/read).

And I have to agree with JSR, that tail switch on the new one is harder to push than the other tail switch lites I have.

Got email reply from Lighthound this afternoon. He is sending me a replacement switch for my defective one. Lighthound rocks!