tell me about the HDS EDC

Love my Surefires, but this really caught my eye. Thanks in advance for any responces.

There's a barrage of posts regarding the HDS. I'm sure those that have them will chime in about it and don't mind doing so. I don't have one, but to me, they're "short and stubby," and that's just my take on it. But I may be persuaded to get one someday. :huh: That's all!

Enjoy! :wave:

There are two different series, the Basic and Ultimate.

Basic has 4 different light levels, not configurable.

Ultimate has 4 different light levels, user-selectable from 20 or so levels between .3 and 42/60/85 lumens (depends which model you get)... and a bunch of other features.

Fully regulated, runs happily on 1x123, 2x123, 2xAA, and a whole slew of rechargeables.

More:
http://flashlightreviews.com/reviews/hds_edcu60xr.htm

Ruger -

Welcome. :wave:

Click here.

cheers

My favorite flashlight!

The primary specs were mentioned by Carrot.

I like the interface better than any other multiple-brightness light. I've tried the Surefire U2 and the McLux PD III, and personally prefer the UDS. I also find the four brightness levels more useful than the two in the PD, and Surefire L1 and L2.

One click turns it on in "primary", which is somewhat less than full. Two clicks will step it down to the next lower brightness. Three clicks steps it to minimum (great for close-up reading/writing). A short click and a long click takes you to maximum.

In addition, you can 'press and hold' anytime the light is on to get momentary maximum.

Either the Basic or Ultimate are very, very flexible. With the Ultimate, you can program the exact setting of any of these four levels. In addition, you can program the switch to be a momentary if you hold it for at least one second...the "tactical" mode.

It's kind of hard to explain...I hope you get the picture.

It's also short enough ('stubby' as CHC describes it) to easily carry in a pocket. They are hard anodized for scratch resistance. The beam is very nice...not too much of a spot, but not really a flood either.

All-in-all if I had to sell all my flashlights but one, the HDS would be the keeper!
:rock:

would you go for the basic or ultimate if you could get just one HDS? Also, same question on 42 or 60 lumin.
Thanks,
Brian

magic79 said:

My favorite flashlight!

The primary specs were mentioned by Carrot.

I like the interface better than any other multiple-brightness light. I've tried the Surefire U2 and the McLux PD III, and personally prefer the UDS. I also find the four brightness levels more useful than the two in the PD, and Surefire L1 and L2.

One click turns it on in "primary", which is somewhat less than full. Two clicks will step it down to the next lower brightness. Three clicks steps it to minimum (great for close-up reading/writing). A short click and a long click takes you to maximum.

In addition, you can 'press and hold' anytime the light is on to get momentary maximum.

Either the Basic or Ultimate are very, very flexible. With the Ultimate, you can program the exact setting of any of these four levels. In addition, you can program the switch to be a momentary if you hold it for at least one second...the "tactical" mode.

It's kind of hard to explain...I hope you get the picture.

It's also short enough ('stubby' as CHC describes it) to easily carry in a pocket. They are hard anodized for scratch resistance. The beam is very nice...not too much of a spot, but not really a flood either.

All-in-all if I had to sell all my flashlights but one, the HDS would be the keeper!
:rock:

Click to expand...

I have to completely agree with this. I was carrying one or another Surefire (A2, E1L, E2 with KL4 head) and once I got the HDS U60 XRGT that is the one that is always in my pocket. The A2 is always in my backpack. The rest are relegated to the car or nightstand drawer or whatever. The HDS is my carry light.

Good rule of thumb is buy the next size up from what you need, If you need 42 lumens get the 60 and run it at 42, it will last forever as far as runtime, If you need 60 lumens get the 85 and run it at 60, same effect, much longer battery life and you always have the extra lumens if you need them.

ruger357,

The EDC line is a very versatile light. It is small enough for every day carry, has the output to rival other high output lights, and has other levels that vary from long, long run time, to just perfect for moving around a dark house.

All of that is combined with top notch build quality, great tint, and perfect beam with throw and spill. It can easily replace 4 other single task lights. If you are heading out and want a light that can fit nearly any situation, it's the one to grab.

blgoode said:

would you go for the basic or ultimate if you could get just one HDS? Also, same question on 42 or 60 lumin.

Thanks,
Brian

Click to expand...

Radio gave a good answer for lumens.

As for Basic vs. Ultimate...it really depends on what features you think you will need.

The main reason I chose the Ultimate was that I wanted to use the "tactical" button feature, and unfortunately, it's only a programmable option on the Ultimate. After I got it, though, I thought the minimum power level was too dim and I reprogrammed it to a slightly higher level.

If I was to do it again, I would again order the Ultimate.

I was comparing my new EDC60 LE with my Surefire E1L the other night.

The EDC is a little shorter than the E1L. It has 4 power levels. The tint is a whiter white. Where the E1L surrounds the focused hotspot with darkness then Saturn rings, the EDC 60 fills that same area with light, making for a more versatile flood/spot light.

I may sell the E1L.

I cant do a search on hsd......too short. any suggestions?

blgoode said:

I cant do a search on hsd......too short. any suggestions?

Click to expand...

Under dealer/manufacturer on this CPF board there is an HDS forum
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=63

The amount of information on all HDS models should keep you entertained for hours.

I have a HDS basic 60 and I love it. I do belive that the best value for money in the HDS series is the Basic 60 or basic 60LE, the LE option wasn't available when I bought mine. LE means it turns on at 60 lumens instead of at 10, and you can adjust it to any of the other 3 levels after turning it on.

The preprogrammed levels on the basic series are well thought out and I can't say I have missed the functions of the ultimate series..

Optics HQ has great CPF prices on HDS lights just look them up in the dealer or group buy sections.

Non of the small Surefire LEDs can compete with this light IMHO, at least until they release the pocket rocket....

Sverre

blgoode said:

would you go for the basic or ultimate if you could get just one HDS? Also, same question on 42 or 60 lumin.
Thanks,
Brian

Click to expand...

I think the basic 60 would do it for me.

How does this light compare to FF3?

Nic said:

How does this light compare to FF3?

Click to expand...

I don't have an HDS but have used an Arc4+ and my FF3 is on the way. The FF3 uses RCR123 batteries (rechargable 3.7V lithium-ion) but will work at lesser levels with CR123. HDS uses CR123, RCR123 or 2xCR123 batteries so is a bit different and a little more flexible than the FF3.

The FF3 has two programmable outputs and "max" which is as hard as the light can go. Compared to the HDS U60, the FF3 has 25% higher readings on a light meter for 75 lumens? The light heats up quickly at that level so only a minute or so is recommended at max.

The HDS U60 will get beat by the FF3 but HDS offers the 85 lumen model if you have to have the brightest. It will cost you dearly though! A great feature of the HDS is the use of a thermal sensor to back off the drive level if it gets too hot. The FF3 will heat up your hand to remind you so hats off to HDS.

Sound pretty even so far? HDS uses a tail clickie to cycle through the 4 levels and the FF3 uses multiple head twists to change levels. This would explain why the FF3 is so much smaller than the HDS... if you can't stand twisties, the HDS is for you!

The reason I went for the FF3 over the HDS was for several reasons. I wanted the smallest light available with multiple programmable outputs and great runtime. Strongly prefer the twistie operation since it can't fail and want the light to stand on it's tail with my keychain attached. The FF3 can use CR123 lithiums in a pinch although it won't be too bright. The HDS was much too large for keychain duty and I would of used RCR123 batteries anyway... so I am giving the FF3 a shot. Another added bonus for me is the ability to repair the light myself. This ability is key due to long shipping times from my location.

If I was buying a gift for a family member, I would purchase an HDS Basic 60 over the FF3. My brothers won't read the instructions so the HDS Basic would be more intuitive to use and the thermal sensor adds "idiotproofness".

Another option is to buy both and give us a comparison review!

BentHeadTX said:

...Another option is to buy both and give us a comparison review!

Click to expand...

I've got both. You summed it up pretty well.

My HDS has a little better beam quality, but the FF3 is excellent. The FF3 outputs a little more on a meter, but visually there's not much difference. On max (burst) output, the FF3 gets very warm pretty fast; the HDS comfortably can run at max until the battery dies.

Re problems with FF3 as a gift, I think either HDS or FF3 *could* be problematic as a gift for a non-sophisticated user. However either HDS or FF3 can be programmed for simpler operation. The FF3 can be made a simple one-level light, likewise the HDS. However it's easier to get lost in the menu system on the FF3.

Actually for a gift light I think a 2-stage Orb Raw or Raw Ns is better -- simpler, prettier, bright, cool tritium locator. It's not regulated but discharge curve is pretty flat and what non-flashaholic knows what regulation even is?

Re HDS, it's still a great light but I think HDS should be prioritizing a shrunken version, not just chasing output with the U85, etc. By FF3 standards the HDS is looking pretty bulky.

joema said:

I've got both. You summed it up pretty well.

My HDS has a little better beam quality, but the FF3 is excellent. The FF3 outputs a little more on a meter, but visually there's not much difference. On max (burst) output, the FF3 gets very warm pretty fast; the HDS comfortably can run at max until the battery dies.
....
By FF3 standards the HDS is looking pretty bulky.

Click to expand...

The ability to run a max output for a period of time is very important for a practical flashlight. That is probably part of the reason the HDS has more bulk...

Lights that can only hit max for a short period of time are show-off lights, imho.

Has anyone done a runtime, with the same cooling provided to both, running at maximum brightness?

That would be something that would really separate the two lights...

Oh, for emergencies for getting attention, does the FF3 offer strobe or SOS mode like the HDS?

Here's my 2cents on HDS vs. FF3. I have the U60 and it is my favorite light. I have the Jil Intelli which for all practical purposes is like the FF3 (I'm still deciding whether or not to buy the FF3). For me, a frequently used EDC should have one-handed operation. twisting with two hands is OK for occasional use (ie backup). I understand that one-handed twisting can be done, but especially for the FluPic, it is not the easiest to do. (that is why the Spy005 will be such an awesome light! multi levels easily actived with one hand)

Also, as mentioned above, the ability to use max for longer intervals without heat buildup is essential for a frequently used EDC. I like to use my U60 quite a bit since it sits in a kydex holster on my belt. The convenience is unbeatable! my 2cents...