DIY FLuPIC Drop in solution for the Q-3

TranquillityBase

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Top row photos are my first experiment.

Bottom row photos represent version two with emitter platform.

The board locates flush with backside of the heatsink and rests on a step in the bore. Spring pressure from the tailcap will not move the board, it's firmly planted. Align the +/- holes on the board with lead notches and it's a straight shot out the top.

With everything together there is very little distance from the top of tallest component on the board to the botton of the emitter platform, just enough for some potting compound.

Still in the design phase.

TBase
 

pmath

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Nice finsih on those boards TB! They make my prototype one posted on another thread earlier look a bit shabby ;-(

I concur with you that the boards sit very nicely on a carefully machined step in the back of the board. I have four or five running this way now. I use just a touch of heat sink cpd around the edge to help them in.

Seeing your emitters sitting there off their boards inspires me to buy some epoxy and go down that path too. So much slug real estate :clap:

fluslug100.jpg


Peter
 

TranquillityBase

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oracle2 said:
How is the cooking going?

Any ready for star leds.
I have one more issue to resolve, a place to solder the ground. I think I will drill and tap for a brass 2-56 screw, just next to the (-) hole on the board.
 

TranquillityBase

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goldserve said:
You mean like this?

Kinda. It needs to be on the back of the sink, and must be close to flush, or it will prevent the battery from making contact. I have some brass 2-56 screws that I would like to try. I haven't decided if 2 screws 180 apart holding the board (kill two birds with one stone) or just one as a solder point? I prefer the two screws idea, but I'll have to see what works out better.
 
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TranquillityBase

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OK! I'm happy with the design now.



This is very straight forward machining, for those of you that wish to give it a try.

The goal is to have a point to make a solder bridge from the outer trace of the board to the sink, and keep everything close to flush. Anything sticking up will prevent the battery from making contact, or worse, it might make contact with something it shouldn't. Any lumps i.e. solder or a slightly raised screw head on the perimeter, and the sink will not sit square in the head. This is the reason for the flat head screw

My first step was to face a piece of raw stock on both ends.

Next I moved to the milling machine, estimated the location for the 2-56tpi brass screw (this can be eyeballed), the subsequent lathe cuts will remove the excess brass regardless of location (within reason). Spot drill and countersink with a small center drill, drill through with #50 drill and tap for 2-56. I think #50 drill is correct?

Now screw a 2-56 brass flat head screw in that hole, nice and tight, try for the edge of too tight (without breaking it). These little buggers are pretty strong.

Back to the lathe to finish turning. If you click on the photo to enlarge it, you will see my screw has been trimmed on the I.D. and the O.D. As long as the cutting bit doesn't loosen the screw, the screw will blend in very nicely with the aluminum sink.

Back to the mill for the two slots, once again eyeball and magnifying glass are good enough. I used a good quality eighth inch, four flute end mill. If you want the slot to machine clean, pilot drill through first, then drop the end mill all the way through and walk toward the center, full depth, one cut there's very little material left for the cutter, but it will wander anyway. If you use this method, it will look clean when finished.

TB
 
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TranquillityBase

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The emitter disk lead holes are not in the most ideal spot. They should be moved towards the center about another eigth inch, this way there is a straight shot from the board out the top of the platform, only one bend per lead required to meet with the wings on the emitter. There is enough room to leave the tabs on the emitter whole. This is good if you are not the best at soldering like me ;)

If you were to make one for emitter only, the slots in the body aren't necessary.
Stars need the slots for the lead wires.

This really is a clean and easy install for FLuPIC board, and your favorite led.

Have fun! :grin2:
 
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cmacclel

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I added a Flupic to my Q3 about a month ago. I just tore off all the components of the stock board. The found the Positive and Negative traces on the factory board and soldered the Flupic in. I didn't have to machine anything :)


Mac
 

TranquillityBase

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I wanted to try something different and preserve the original curcuit/led combo. I changed the original led to a U bin and I like the performance with the stock board.

I thought this sink would be a good way to try the FLuPIC without to much fuss. The sink and the emitter platform and not difficult to make.

TB
 
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