14500 Li-Ion in a Fenix L1P/L2P

Not sure if this is the right area to post this question, but I'm trying to use one of AW's protected 14500 batteries in a Fenix L1P with a L2P head. My problem is that the Li-Ion cell is taller than a standard AA, and I can't screw both ends on tight enough to make electrical contact through the body.

I thought about using a washer, but I can't find one with a large enough ID and small enough OD (both together). And building up solder on that locking ring/PC board in the head seems like a knuckleheaded idea.

I know running the LED that way is a bit of a risk, but after LOTS of searching I found several people who have been doing it without any problem. If it goes south I can always fall back to my MillerMod L1P, which is my current EDC.

I was going to post some photos so you can see what I'm talking about, but it looks like I don't have those privaledges...?

I have been using a protected 14500 in my L1P v2.0 without any contact issue. The 1mm extra length of the cell doesn't seem to post a problem because the tail cap spring will adjust for that.

Hold on, I think I found how to post the images...

Are those pictures of the positive end? The ring holding the board in place might be hitting the shoulders of the cell preventing contact to the board...maybe a magnet would help?

AW said:

I have been using a protected 14500 in my L1P v2.0 without any contact issue. The 1mm extra length of the cell doesn't seem to post a problem because the tail cap spring will adjust for that.

Click to expand...

Hmmmmm.....When I tighten the head and insert my 14500 cell & magnet (tailcap off), the cell is .055" higher than the tube. which makes it impossible to make contact on mine. If I toss the cell in and try to tighten both ends, they don't seat all the way unless I remove the magnet, and then the tip (+) doesn't make contact with the board. I wonder what's different.

Maybe I need to twist them a little tighter to flatten the heat shrink a bit. It'll be close with the magnet out of the equation.

don't ever use a magnet with a li-ion cell!
side impact will shift magnet possibly causing a dead shot. very bad news for a li-ion cell.

I posted a thread on how to do this a while back. place a dab of solder on circuit board to make contact.

don't solder cell, unless you really know what you are doing.

Fenix stainless L1+ and L1-P V2.0 with logo on bezel will take li-ion 14500 with no problems.

V2.5 w/logo on body will not take li-ion. draws almost 3amps from 14500. certain to kill something :green:

fore said:

Are those pictures of the positive end? The ring holding the board in place might be hitting the shoulders of the cell preventing contact to the board...maybe a magnet would help?

Click to expand...

Sorry fore, looks like we were posting at the same time. The shoulders appear to be clearing ok, and that is the positive end. A small pool of solder for the tip might work for the head, but the cell is just baaaaarely too long even with the magnet out.

cy said:

don't ever use a magnet with a li-ion cell!
side impact will shift magnet possibly causing a dead shot. very bad news for a li-ion cell...

Click to expand...

Good to know. I've been using LiPo's in R/C heli's and airplanes for a few years and I've heard some real horror stories. I guess it makes sense that Li-Ion cells are just as dangerous if shorted.

cy said:

...V2.5 w/logo on body will not take li-ion. draws almost 3amps from 14500. certain to kill something :green:

Click to expand...

I remember reading your thread. I was under the impression that it did not apply to the L2P head, but am I wrong about that???

Woah, good to know cy. I hear about a lot of people using magnets and it seems most often times they're doing so with unprotected cells. Shorting out a li-ion is an unpleasant thought.

Now that I think about it, that shoulder comment was retarded. I don't have my L1P anymore but I think that ring is for negative contact with the end of the battery tube. Sounds like cy's tip about solder on the board is the way to go, but if it's too long already...hmm

Ok, I stopped being a girly-man and twisted a little harder. The light came on at the end of the travel, but there's certainly no EXTRA room in there. Current reading at the tail is 825mA, so it looks like the regulated L2P head does all right compared to the L1P v2.5 head.

Thanks for all incredibly quick help, I appreciate it. Hopefully some day I'll be able to help you guys out too (when I'm not so wet behind the ears that is). :bow:

Now I gotta go outside to play in the cold dark night for awhile. I think I'm gonna like these 14500/L2P head combo!

Glad you got it working. But be careful about how much force you exert on the cell...you don't want to damage the protection circuit!

Yea, I think I'm right on the fringe of excessive force. I also just realized that I can't close the switch, unscrew the tailcap, and just press on the edge of the tail for momentary operation like I can with my standard L1P.

Well it works ok, but it's back to the drawing board to find a way to lengthen my tube a little.

..... uhhhh, theL1P tube that is .....

FireStik,

Make sure you screw in the body tube in the right direction. If you put in the body tube in the wrong direction, the tailcap won't close completely. I have absolutely no problem using the same protected 14500 in the Fenix LiP v2.0 ( no magnet required ). One more thing, protected LiIon cells are protected from dead short if it ever happens - that's what the protection for.

AW

AW said:

...If you put in the body tube in the wrong direction, the tailcap won't close completely...

Click to expand...

Thanks, that'll save me from an embarrassing post later when I can't get ANYTHING to work.

Maybe the v2.0 tube is longer? My v2.5 is 50mm or 1.969" long.

RoadkillBC,

I just measured the v2.0 body tube. It is 50.85mm 1.999in. It is indeed longer than what you have there :laughing:

AW

Although the tip of my 14500 cells make contact with the board if I use more pressure, I think I'll pool just the slightest amount of solder on the board's contact area so I won't have to mash the heat shrink down every time I twist the end. The top photo shows that the heat shrink is slightly higher than the metal.





These cells appear to be of excellent quality. It's amazing that they can build the protection circuit right into the cell too. AW has obviously done us all a huge favor by offering them at such a ridiculously low price.

AW said:

...I just measured the v2.0 body tube. It is 50.85mm 1.999in. It is indeed longer than what you have there :laughing: ...

Click to expand...

Thanks for the confirmation AW, that's probably just long enough to matter.

I'm going to bend the center conductor from some RG6 to make a washer for my head. If I join the ends and tin the copper all the way around, it should make excellent contact and provide enough extra room for my 14500's. I'll post the info if it works.

Sorry to anyone attempting to follow this thread. I'm using a dual-boot PC and the cookies on one of the drives log me in as "RoadkillBC" instead of "FireStik".

I corrected the problem and you won't see anything more from RoadkillBC...

Success!!! The wire ring works great, and now I can use my L1P/L2P with the 2-stage mod and as a tactical (momentary) light.

Here's the ring...the photo looks like there's an overlap on the right side, but it's actually a reflection from where I Dremeled an enlarged area of solder...


And here's the L2P head with and without the ring installed...

So are you using one 14500 in the L1P and two in the L2P? Any difference in illumination?