Switch failure on Surefire L4--repairable?

Well, with all the talk about the poor clickies on the U2, my L4 clickie failed today. (The U2 still works fine.) It will light up on momentary, but will not stay on unless I hold down the button.

Any ideas how I might fix it? I know I can call Surefire for another one, but maybe I can repair it myself.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

While I've not experience any "issues" with my SureFire clickies—yet—but I read somewhere to try and take it apart, inspect, clean, and reassemble. Hope you get it resolved soon enough.

:thinking: Does the L4 clicky work like the U2? Does it have the little contact tabs on the inside? If it does, try raising them. Also, clean all contact points. As CHC said, take it apart, lube the innards and try again.

I have been waiting on SF for a month now for the replacement clickie on my E2L (same clickie as the L4 ) which at the time they said would be sent out immediatly.

hmmmm, I called them exactly one week ago for a failed L4 tailcap and got it today, 1 week, not bad.

Surefire sent me a new tailcap for L4 after it stopped clicking. Sometimes it stays on, sometimes it doesn't. I received it last week.

I got it in two weeks which probably means they sent it out after a week.

I'd like to know how to take it apart too to see if I can fix it, maybe have the old one as a spare.

warpdrive said:

I'd like to know how to take it apart too to see if I can fix it, maybe have the old one as a spare.

Click to expand...

Litfuse is the guy you want to talk to. He's the one that figured out the problem with the Z57. Surefire even sent him a couple of tailcaps for his effort.

edit: I sent Litfuse a PM with a link to this thread. He's not logged on CPF at the moment.

Ok, I opened up my tailcap. If you unscrew the retaining ring around the rubber button, the switch assembly comes out.

As you will notice in the picture, a small metal piece also fell out of the switch. I can't really tell where it came from, but this may be the problem with the switch.

Looks like I will be calling Surefire for a replacement on Monday.....

Hmm. hard to say if it's somethign that was in there from the begining and interefered, or soemthing broke off. Have you tried the suggestions and then put it back together and tried it out again?

I put it back together, but no luck. I don't think it is a contact problem as it works fine in momentary mode if I hold down the button. It just won't click and stay on by itself.

I did try bending the tabs up, but this did not help either.

Fortunately, I have a McE2s switch I can use until Surefire sends a replacement. I guess now we have to start carrying spare clickies as well as spare batteries. :hairpull:

LouRoy, how did you unscrew the retaining ring? I think i see glue on mine, cant imagine it just screws off.

My Z57 failed too, replacement is on the way, but would be nice if i could revive my dud E1L...

Sending replacement switches shows good customer service, but I hope Surefire is addressing the underlying design flaw. The last thing you need in an emergency is a flashlight with a dead switch.

Hmm...I wonder if a spare switch would fit in an sc1/2 spares carrier...


cfb

BBL said:

LouRoy, how did you unscrew the retaining ring? I think i see glue on mine, cant imagine it just screws off.

Click to expand...

There are two notches in the retaining ring. I just took a small screwdriver and pushed against the notch and ring in a counterclockwise direction. It loosened up right away and there was no glue on mine.

You can brake your switch down into more parts then what is shown in your photo.
You can split the black plastic button with the spring on it in two halfs yet.
You will see the parts inside there that give it the clickie action.

I have taken mine apart to lube it up.

LouRoy,

Does your switch click, but the light doesn't stay on- or does it not "click" at all?

If it "clicks", what you need to do is bend the two "legs" on the side of the switch inward slightly. It's a very fine adjustment though, so don't overdo it. It's hard to explain the mechanics of the switch, but it readily apparent if you open up the two halves and take a look at the "guts".

If anyone can't do the repairs themselves, I am still doing them for the cost of return postage and padded mailer- $1 in USA. Send me a PM if interested.

Peter

BBL- heating the cap will make the ring easy to remove. I simply press the cap against the electric heating element on my stove for about 30 seconds- it works every time.

Peter

BBL said:

LouRoy, how did you unscrew the retaining ring? I think i see glue on mine, cant imagine it just screws off.

My Z57 failed too, replacement is on the way, but would be nice if i could revive my dud E1L...

Click to expand...

LitFuse said:

LouRoy,

Does your switch click, but the light doesn't stay on- or does it not "click" at all?

If it "clicks", what you need to do is bend the two "legs" on the side of the switch inward slightly. It's a very fine adjustment though, so don't overdo it. It's hard to explain the mechanics of the switch, but it readily apparent if you open up the two halves and take a look at the "guts".


Peter

Click to expand...

Peter,

The switch does not click at all. It will work in momentary.

Could you explain how to open up the two halves of the switch? and can't figure out how to do it.

Thanks for you help and repair offer. I will send it to you if you think you can fix it.

The two halves are held together only by friction, and are usually quite easy to separate. The seam between the halves should be apparent. Squeezing the halves together lightly with a pair of pliers should do the trick if you can't do it with your hands.

If it doesn't click, you may have a cooked spring, which will be apparent upon inspection.

Peter

You want squeeze them on the short axis. This will separate the two halves.

Peter

so Iguess I am chopped liver, why am I waiting almost 4 weeks for my replacement switch from SF What do I have to do to get SF to take care of ths for me.
I dont think I should have to repair the switch that came with my $100 plus light.