HDS U60 or FireFly III ????? Help needed.

I am finally going to buy myself one of the high end lights and I need your guys help. I have it narrowed down to either the HDS U60 XR or the Fire Fly III. There is alot of information about the U60, but not so much on the FF III. I was wondering about the runtime of the FFIII on its high setting (42 lumens or around). Also, does the U60 have a heatsink like the FFIII?

I like the smaller size of the FFIII, but I also really like the look of the U60. I will be carrying this in my pocket and will also use this as my main light while hiking.

Let me know if I have both lights figured out.
Both lights have the same features (tons of output levels to choose from,sos,strobe,etc), U60 has a clickie while the FFIII has a tail twist. FFIII has the higher output, but for only a VERY short period of time (less than 1 min), and the U60 XR has 30 minutes at 60 lumens!

Is the Guaranteed Tint version of the U60 worth it? It would cost an extra $20, so I'm not so sure about this. What do you guys thinks?


I am really stuck between these two lights, and I need some help as to which one is better overall. Please list pros/cons (if there are any) of each. If there is also another light in this price range that can even compare to the quality/performance of these two lights, than please list that as well.

Thanks alot

Re: I'm finally taking the plunge... suggestions please

I just got back from a recent campout where I used a Princeton Tec EOS headlamp for hands free, and instead of my usual carry (the Gladius) I took my HDS EDC 60 Basic. On the whole the EDC works VERY well for camping/backpacking style use. If you are going to carry one I do have a couple of suggestions.

1) Lanyard it! If you drop an EDC in foilage at dusk it goes into ultimate stealth mode!
2) Test your batteries before you head out. My EDC is a bit sensitive about batts so I stick a battery in and run it on the highest setting for one minute. If the light doesn't dim down the battery passes. If the light does step down the battery has failed the test and I pull the battery and try another one. When you have a good battery the light is awesome. When you have a flakey battery it really makes the light wig-out and is a source of great frustration!

I would say I used the light at default (10 lumens) for 98% of the time I was out, only kicking it up to 60 lumens for the fun of it.

Re: I'm finally taking the plunge... suggestions please

Hi,
Im in the same position as you and it seems like the same wants. I decided for the jetbeam instead, nice price, nice looks and not picky for batteries or even battery type (1,5-4,2V), of course there is an aber, no reviews for it yet...

Re: I'm finally taking the plunge... suggestions please

I'd say between these two the big two questions will be:
1. Do you prefer either switch type? Button versus twist.
2. Does the size difference make a big deal to you? The FF3 is a lot smaller than the HDS in your pocket.

There are other advantages the HDS has, like thermal control, but like zespectre said, you will most likely use lower levels 99% of the time. My Jil Intelli has the same system as the FF3, and I use the hi only to play around, it's almost too bright on hi (with fresh RCR2) to use for anything other than outside or a large room. The regulation of the HDS rocks though. Super dependable brightness level when you want it, on primaries or RCR123.

Re: I'm finally taking the plunge... suggestions please

Blindasabat said:

I'd say between these two the big two questions will be:
1. Do you prefer either switch type? Button versus twist.
2. Does the size difference make a big deal to you? The FF3 is a lot smaller than the HDS in your pocket.

There are other advantages the HDS has, like thermal control, but like zespectre said, you will most likely use lower levels 99% of the time. My Jil Intelli has the same system as the FF3, and I use the hi only to play around, it's almost too bright on hi (with fresh RCR2) to use for anything other than outside or a large room. The regulation of the HDS rocks though. Super dependable brightness level when you want it, on primaries or RCR123.

Click to expand...

I guess I don't really prefer either switch over the other, but if I did it would be the clickie, but only by a little bit. I do however like the smaller size of the FFIII.

The main deciding factors would be the regulation and runtime of either light on their high and main settings. I know what the U60 gets for its settings. 30 min (at least) on the max setting of 60 lumens, and it also has 60 min on the second setting of 42 lumens (AWESOME!). What I don't know however is what the runtime on the FFIII is like, or how good the regulation is either. I was hoping for some answers or comparisons from people who have both lights.

THanks again

Re: I'm finally taking the plunge... suggestions please

Blindasabat said:

I'd say between these two the big two questions will be:
1. Do you prefer either switch type? Button versus twist.
2. Does the size difference make a big deal to you? The FF3 is a lot smaller than the HDS in your pocket.

There are other advantages the HDS has, like thermal control, but like zespectre said, you will most likely use lower levels 99% of the time. My Jil Intelli has the same system as the FF3, and I use the hi only to play around, it's almost too bright on hi (with fresh RCR2) to use for anything other than outside or a large room. The regulation of the HDS rocks though. Super dependable brightness level when you want it, on primaries or RCR123.

Click to expand...

I guess I don't really prefer either switch over the other, but if I did it would be the clickie, but only by a little bit. I do however like the smaller size of the FFIII.

The main deciding factors would be the regulation and runtime of either light on their high and main settings. I know what the U60 gets for its settings. 30 min (at least) on the max setting of 60 lumens, and it also has 60 min on the second setting of 42 lumens (AWESOME!). What I don't know however is what the runtime on the FFIII is like, or how good the regulation is either. I was hoping for some answers or comparisons from people who have both lights.

THanks again

I am leaning towards the U60 as of now. Does anyone have runtime charts for the FFIII?

Is the Guaranteed Tint version of the U60 worth it? It would cost an extra $20, so I'm not so sure about this. What do you guys thinks?

Click to expand...

I received my HDS U60 XR a couple weeks ago. The output of my light is WHITE. Maybe I got lucky but I wouldn't spend the extra bucks on the GT. It replaced my E1E in my pocket and I am very happy with it.

I don't own the HDS, but will try to present my experiences of the FF3. I don't know of any runtime graphs yet for the FFIII. the closest I can think of for runtime graphs would be the ones done by Cones for the Jil Intelli (www.cones-review.co.uk), which runs on a RCR2 that has half the capacity of the RCR123.

Looking at the charts, it'll be difficult to find anything that will beat the regulation of the HDS's. The burst of the FF3 is sort of like an afterburner, which drives the LED at full blast for a burst of light when needed. The flupic does not have thermal management, so it's only recommended for short periods, but I'd trust my FF3 with the copper heatsink to run it safely for periods of at least 3-5 mins or so, which i think is more than enough for an 'overdrive'. I once ran my Jil Intelli on burst (fan cooled) to completely drain an RCR2 without any noticeable immediate ill effects, and the Jil Intelli being an incredibly tiny light doesn't have the best heat management.

The regular levels are plenty bright already, and according to Cones, goes for 90 minutes on level 15 for the Jil Intelli. Assuming the double capacity of the RCR123 in the FF3, I'd think one can expect about 120 minutes possibly? The regular levels would be completely safe to run until the battery can't handle it, especially with the copper heatsink.

The two significant considerations to my mind would be the size (which you already noted), and the type of battery used. The HDS can use a number of battery configurations. the flupic needs a RCR123 to run at spec. it'll run with full functionality with a CR123 but won't give you the brightness you'd get with the li-on. as for size, the FF3 is already smaller in standard configuration, but can be made even smaller with the pocket body or the CR2 body. the machining of the FF3 is superb and oozes quality and it's literally a joy to turn the head of the light to operate it--it's that silky smooth. the Flupic may take about 5-10 minutes to learn and a day or two to perfect, but once you got the hang of it, it's really a joy to use.

I think there was a FF3 review thread, and also the FF3 preorder thread, which contains a lot of feedback from users, some of which also own the HDS ?60. You can try checking there as well for their impressions.

hope this helps =)

HDS: great regulation; thermal management; clickie=one handed operation

FF3/Jil Intelli: better size/form factor; various modes and features that are easier to access than the HDS

Summary: if size is not an issue, the HDS gets the edge. when you use a light often, one-handed operation IMO is virtually a necessity. The FF3/Intelli cannot be easily operated with one hand...

I don't know much about the Firefly. OTOH I have owned a U60 and a U60XR. I can't imagine spending any money for the guaranteed tint...both were very white.

This is the most incredible and versatile light. It may be larger than the Firefly, but it fits in any pocket without a problem...dockers, cargo pants, even fairly tight jeans, and dress pants (I had mine in my tuxedo pants when I got married -- in true flashaholic style!). :rock:

In my opinion, there just is no light that compares with the U60 in whichever flavor.

liteboy said:

The FF3/Intelli cannot be easily operated with one hand...

Click to expand...

I agree with amost all of your post except that one line. The Intelli cannot be easily operated with one hand, though it is possible. just not easily.

However, the FF3 on the other hand, is not just supremely easy to operate with one hand, it's also so silky smooth that you won't even need a reason and will want to operate it for the hell of it. You must not own a FF3 or have gotten a defective unit to make that statement about the FF3. I can't emphasize enough how well machined and silky smooth the FF3 is, and you will hear the same from anyone else who's bought the light.

good thread... deserves a bump as for a simple answer... if you only can get one... I would highly suggest the HDS...

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magic79 said:

...

I can't imagine spending any money for the guaranteed tint...

...

Click to expand...

I can't understand why people get XR versions ... my U60GT (non XR) gets 30mins from a protected li-ion cell... runtime is sort of a null factor with a mult. level light, even more so when you can get higher cap. battery packs/tubes.... but everyone has their own perks...

getting an GT version prevents you from getting a nasty yellow or green LED. On a light this expensive a little more cash shouldn't break the bank

Somy Nex said:

I don't own the HDS, but will try to present my experiences of the FF3. I don't know of any runtime graphs yet for the FFIII. the closest I can think of for runtime graphs would be the ones done by Cones for the Jil Intelli (www.cones-review.co.uk), which runs on a RCR2 that has half the capacity of the RCR123.

Looking at the charts, it'll be difficult to find anything that will beat the regulation of the HDS's. The burst of the FF3 is sort of like an afterburner, which drives the LED at full blast for a burst of light when needed. The flupic does not have thermal management, so it's only recommended for short periods, but I'd trust my FF3 with the copper heatsink to run it safely for periods of at least 3-5 mins or so, which i think is more than enough for an 'overdrive'. I once ran my Jil Intelli on burst (fan cooled) to completely drain an RCR2 without any noticeable immediate ill effects, and the Jil Intelli being an incredibly tiny light doesn't have the best heat management.

The regular levels are plenty bright already, and according to Cones, goes for 90 minutes on level 15 for the Jil Intelli. Assuming the double capacity of the RCR123 in the FF3, I'd think one can expect about 120 minutes possibly? The regular levels would be completely safe to run until the battery can't handle it, especially with the copper heatsink

...

hope this helps =)

Click to expand...

I'm planning on doing a runtime test with my Jil Intelli on burst on the 14500 cab... I'll use a turbo fan which will hopefully keep it from getting even warm to the touch... If I give my intelli more aluminum in the body to move the heat to and use a turbo fan I think i'll be ok... agree?

jar3ds said:

I'm planning on doing a runtime test with my Jil Intelli on burst on the 14500 cab... I'll use a turbo fan which will hopefully keep it from getting even warm to the touch... If I give my intelli more aluminum in the body to move the heat to and use a turbo fan I think i'll be ok... agree?

Click to expand...

i'd be interested in seeing that runtime test =) though, i wouldn't recommend doing multiple such tests. i just put my Intelli in front of a regular fan at full blast when i was running it down, and only did it once, and if i remember correctly, it still got pretty warm. but i guess that's the price you pay for such a tiny body

the fan I have is a honeywell fan thats about 8 or so inch's in diameter.... you can position it straight up into the air... so that I can just place the Jil Cab directly on the fan... I did it with my old L2 (which gets VERY hot in the head) and it just got warm...

So I would hope that I will not get ANY thermal damage from the test... but I could be very wrong... Is the Intelli on burst running @ 800mAh or 1000mAh?

I'll be making a post in the review section once I get it all done

PM sent (or will be soon) =) don't wanna stray too OT on this thread =)

yeah.... sorry to hi-jack the thread slightly...

jar3ds out

jar3ds said:

Is the Intelli on burst running @ 800mAh or 1000mAh?

Click to expand...

800 I think.

If you're going to carry the light loose in your pocket, I'd say go with the FF3. You'll appreciate the smaller size. I'd definitely reccomend attaching a lanyard.

Well guys, I think I will be going with a HDS EDC U60 XRGT. Mostly because I like that it can be run with one hand, and it has all the features I want. I also like how I know the performance of this light. I figured I should go with the absolute best one I can get (XRGT wise), because I don't want to think I could have gotten something better later on.

Thanks guys for all your help.
Is opticshq.com the best deal out there for this light?

I have a FF3, but have never used an HDS.

Runtime: I ran the FF3 for 70 minutes on level 15 recently, and it was still going strong when I turned it off.

One hand operation is incredibly easy, and satisfying, as posted above. Truly a joy to use.

The smaller form factor is a big plus for me, as I carry it on my keychain. I wouldn't want anything bigger in a pants pocket.

I'm sure they're both great lights, but owning the FF3 has left me uninterested in anything else EDC sized. For now.

Good luck!

Jack