Suggestions for 1st M@g > LED mod?

I am really excited about the prospect of doing a conversion to LED on a Maglite. I have been reading the forum for a few weeks now and am ready to take the plunge on an LED conversion. However I need some guidance.

I am still not very clear on the BIN coding for LEDs as well as the other parameters I need to know in order to have a sucessful conversion.

1) It seems there is an old and new coding system?
2) How do you know what each letter signifies in the code?
3) Is the vf the voltage the LED needs to light?
4) What does the ma figure mean in the whole scheme of things?

I guess besides the answers to the above questions it'd be nice if you guys would tell me the right LED bin and parts to use to make a nice Maglite LED conversion.

Here's what I'd like to achieve..

1) A light that is bright as hell (well as bright as we can get for an LED anyway).
2) To achieve #1 in the smallest package possible
3) To achieve #1 and #2 while keeping an excellent run time preferably on regular alkaline or 123 batteries. Rechargables are ok but not a first choice. I can get C cells for free at work .

The actual assembly of the theoretical light is not a problem for me at all. I am a very hands on guy.

So thanks in advance to any of you guys that can make some suggestions for a NEWB like myself.

Brian

For Bin code and Vf information see here:

Bin codes


Here's a project with a parts list in the thread:

Mag 3D LED w/Wiz2 Converter

Monolith said:

For Bin code and Vf information see here:

Bin codes

Click to expand...

Thanks Monolith. I had seen that but it still doesn't totally explain the coding. For instance there is someone selling a "UX1J" in the BST forum. But that coding doesn't really jibe with the tables listed in that link, does it?

I'm sure I'm just not "getting it".

.

U=flux (87.4 to 113.5)

X1= tint (greenish tint - see color chart)

J=Vf (3.27 to 3.51 volts)

Ranges are given because the manufacturing process cannot produce exact specifications. LEDs are sorted into "bins" and then sold. Premium bins bring higher prices (such as "U" bins which are a high flux LED).

The lower the Vf, the longer the runtime. I would start with a TWOH or TXOH. These are mostly white (the WO being "warmer"). Once you're used to these types of tints, you can compare to others. I suggest "T" bin flux because they are cheaper and easier to get in better color tints.

Monolith said:

U=flux (87.4 to 113.5)

X1= tint (greenish tint - see color chart)

J=Vf (3.27 to 3.51 volts)

Ranges are given because the manufacturing process cannot produce exact specifications. LEDs are sorted into "bins" and then sold. Premium bins bring higher prices (such as "U" bins which are a high flux LED).

The lower the Vf, the longer the runtime. I would start with a TWOH or TXOH. These are mostly white (the WO being "warmer"). Once you're used to these types of tints, you can compare to others. I suggest "T" bin flux because they are cheaper and easier to get in better color tints.

Click to expand...

OK, but wouldn't a "T" bin be not all that bright? I mean I have my SF 6P that would put out that much light right? My goals are to increase output, throw and increase runtime albeit sacrificing the smaller form factor for the larger MAG size.

Depends what you consider bright. I like my 3D mag w/ a direct driven T**J off 3D alkalines. It's plenty bright and runs for HOURS per battery change. If you want something brighter, and have access to C cells, a Tri lux running 3x T**J's off 3 C's in a 2D host is a good setup, I like mine.

i also have a 3d mag that i want to convert to leds, so i'm looking for ideas to.
tim that tri lux, is it direct driven? and also where would i get the leds from?

thanks in advance
-Neil

My Trilux is direct driven. Off 3 C Duracell's it pulls 2.4amps which is right a spec. I bought the LED's and reflectors and all from modamag when he was selling them. Also check out Photofanatic in the BST forum, he always has Lux3's for sale.

VWTim said:

My Trilux is direct driven. Off 3 C Duracell's it pulls 2.4amps which is right a spec. I bought the LED's and reflectors and all from modamag when he was selling them. Also check out Photofanatic in the BST forum, he always has Lux3's for sale.

Click to expand...

What kind of lumens do you get out of this setup?

This is a 2D host we're talking about right? Is there any necessary modification to the 2D host to make the 3C's fit?

If you wanted at a later time to use rechargables could you do so in this setup or would be necessary to wire in a resitor?

the Tri lux is in a 2 host, all you have to do is cut down the tailspring, so it sits into the tailcap. Other than that, a little heater hose or PCV to help center the cells. As to NiMH's I'm not sure, the voltage will be less, but I'm not sure on the current drive level. The output is really nice, although I'm thinking of putting in a driver and run each LED at 1A off of a mess of AA's or the new Li-ion D's.

if i were to do that i could use a 3d mag and run it off alkaline right? and also would a luxeon with a vf of J as in the ux1J's that photofanatic is selling would that be too low a voltage? would 4.5 volts burn out the led?