Doug Speck E2C Converter - How do you remove it?

sygyzy

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Jan 29, 2003
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I connected my E2C converter I purchased new from Doug to a Surefire Z44 (?) head/bezel. I left it that way and put it away for storage. A year or so later, I try to remove all the pieces so I can reconfigure my Surefire lights. It's basically non-removable. I should have known this would be a problem since the only way I even got it on in the first place was to use to screw it onto a E2 body and use that as leverage/grip.

I ended up taking pliers to it and now have a scratch on the HA (ironic) and fear there might be some damaged threads (though a few installs off and on in a E2 body says otherwise). Anyway, I know I am not the only one with this problem

See - https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/743929&postcount=13

Does anyone have any solutions? I am thiking the o-ring might be the culprit. What about alternates? Does the one Lighthound sell have this problem?

Thanks.
 

Flashdark

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Since you have my previous (and only) solution to the problem in the above thread reference, I'll move on and tell you how I get around this problem:

1. I don't use the E2C from Doug at all!! As we both know, if you ever screw it on tight, you will play hell in ever getting it off again. Since we instinctively DO THIS when assembling flashlight parts, the best way to avoid the problem is - DON'T USE IT! It is a very attractive, non-functioning, unusable part! (It's too bad. It is beautiful when mated to a KL-5.)

2. I only use the E2C (screwed loosely into a selected head, and then backed off a little) to create a storage carrier for an extra bulb in my equipment case (since I have run out of other places to put them).

3. If I need an adapter (that works), I now use the Surefire LU-60A adapter. This has a knurled ring that can be gripped by fingers or pliers and therefore guarantee removal, but it is still stiff and a "little" stubborn on occasion. This adaptor is part of a $120.00 kit that includes a shockproof M-2 bezel, a P-60 bulb, a P-61 bulb, and the adapter itself to mate an L4 scoutlight body to the M-2 head. (LEDs do not produce decent Infra-red light and an incandescent bulb with appropriate filter is required for this purpose).

4. Another solution is the "old" E2C adaptor with the original hex-head base. This may be hard to find. "Lighthound" shows a picture of one, but that doesn't mean that he has any for sale.

5. In general, we do not have the time or the tolerance for something that does not work perfectly every time. Junk it and get something that works or you will be forever irritated. This took about one hour for me. I now have several LU-60A adaptors that complete extra bulb-carrier and head build-up assemblies in my storage case. (The KL-3/KL-5/C-2/C-3/M-2/Z-32 etc. heads can all be adapted to the E1/E2/L1/L2 bodies with very interesting results, so I keep several adaptors in my case). I usually give away the black HA-III M-2 heads and keep the rest for use. A very expensive solution, BUT IT WORKS!

Hope this helps.
 

Lunal_Tic

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I just went to see if I could undo a couple of mine. One gave way easily the other will probably require a strap wrench. On the other hand I had put these on quite hard in the beginning so they wouldn't unscrew every time I tried to get the bezel off.

You should probably try a little heat and strap wrenches. I've had pretty good success with those even on Surefires.

If you are always moving things around I guess this is a bad thing but in my case, so far, they work as I'd like.

Good luck,
-LT
 

cy

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this is how I removed my stuck E2C adapter:

1. jam some material into threads as you screw E body into adapter.

2. unscrew entire assembly with adapter jammed to E body.

3. then use strap wrench to separate.
 
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txaggiechl

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Flashdark said:
3. If I need an adapter (that works), I now use the Surefire LU-60A adapter. This has a knurled ring that can be gripped by fingers or pliers and therefore guarantee removal, but it is still stiff and a "little" stubborn on occasion. This adaptor is part of a $120.00 kit that includes a shockproof M-2 bezel, a P-60 bulb, a P-61 bulb, and the adapter itself to mate an L4 scoutlight body to the M-2 head. (LEDs do not produce decent Infra-red light and an incandescent bulb with appropriate filter is required for this purpose).

5. In general, we do not have the time or the tolerance for something that does not work perfectly every time. Junk it and get something that works or you will be forever irritated. This took about one hour for me. I now have several LU-60A adaptors that complete extra bulb-carrier and head build-up assemblies in my storage case. (The KL-3/KL-5/C-2/C-3/M-2/Z-32 etc. heads can all be adapted to the E1/E2/L1/L2 bodies with very interesting results, so I keep several adaptors in my case). I usually give away the black HA-III M-2 heads and keep the rest for use. A very expensive solution, BUT IT WORKS!

Hope this helps.

I was looking at ordering the E2C adapter as well, but need to switch between the two quit frequently.

Where can I pick up the LU60A assembly (adapter & bezel) and what's a decent price on these?
 

nikon

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Another time, another place.
Get a block of rubber with a somewhat grippy surface. Hold the bezel in your left hand and press the E2C against the rubber block. Turn the block toward you and the bezel away. You can squeeze it between your knees for extra leverage if necessary. It works every time for me. Just be sure there's no grease on the bottom of the E2C so it doesn't slip.

93749948.jpg
 

sygyzy

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The problem, as I am sure you guys have noticed is not getting it off the body (that's the easy part) but getting it off the bezel/head. The way it's designed, the only part protruding is about 1/3" long and it's beveled making using a strap wrench IMPOSSIBLE. There is nothing to strap to. Correction - I did use a strapwrench, except I wrapped it around the head. Then I used pliers to grip the adapter and remove it.

Flashdark - Your solution is great except I don't want to spend $120.00 to get an adapter :(
 

Flashdark

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txaggiechl:

Wayne Lagger @ LPS Tactical (lagger-pro.com) usually has them for about $120.00 if I remember correctly. As far as I know, you can only purchase the complete adapter set (adapter, M-2 head in HA-III black, P-60 bulb, and P-61 bulb). Ask him if the extra bulb is included. I don't remember. I just talked to him yesterday and he said that he is all out at the present time but has ordered more of the LU-60A kits from Surefire. I need another two sets myself. Hope this helps.


nikon:

Your "block-of-rubber" solution is even better than my radiator hose. Thank you for the idea. Best I've heard so far.


sygyzy:

I know, I know. It hurts.
 

dougmccoy

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sygwyzy

I've had exactly the same problem and did exactly as you've done with the same result......damaged HA on the adaptor! However, it looks like the best solution woould be the one described by Nikon. Another option, which I was considering but decided against, would be to drill and tap two diametrically opposed holes to enable you to place and remove a couple of grub screws (or similar) to facilitate removal?

Doug is an excellent engineer, but this was one componant that (IMHO) lacked enough forward planning in its design?

Doug
 

oldgrandpajack

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I use the flat rubber grip pads, made for opening hard to open bottles. Works everytime. :)

oldgrandpajack
 
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Flashdark

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oldgrandpajack:

I wondered if that might not work, but have not yet tried it. I have an older version in a kitchen drawer that I will try. Good idea. But the trouble again is not having one of these pads handy when you need it. We are still faced with the UNACCEPTABLE situation of having a part that causes a problem "in the field".
 

sygyzy

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I was going to say I don't have a large block of rubbing lying around, but I *do* have the flat rubber pads for opening bottles. I will try that tonight.

dougmccoy - I agree. He completely dropped the ball on this one IMO. I love your screw idea. I wonder how I can do that without having the drill slip. And I don't know if I can find a tap that small.
 

Gene

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I've owned E2C's for years and have only had this happen a couple of times. Jack beat me to it and those cheapo pieces of rubber for opening jars work everytime. Any rubber or grippy material will do the trick. Cut off a piece of one and carry it in your wallet if you're constantly changing E2C's in the field.
 
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