Lowe's/Task Force 3AAA Super 1W, v. reverse engineering

I like it

Basics
Body: aluminum
Power source: 3x AAA in a carrier.
Emitter: Genuine Lumileds Luxeon® Star
Switch: Reverse clickie, probably not water proof
Price: kind of expensive. $20 ish

Physical
Weight: 5 oz with batteries
Size: 1" diameter and about 3/8" shorter than a 12 oz soda can all put together.

Electrical
Drive: 2.0 ohm series resistor
current, fresh alkaline: 0.475A
current, stabilized* NiMH: 0.225A

*stabilized defined: NiMH starts off around 1.35v and rapidly drops to 1.2 to 1.25v and maintains this voltage for most of the discharge. The technical term for the stabilized voltage is called the midpoint voltage, but I'll call it stabilized.

Based on these measurements, you can roughly extrapolate that with NiMH batteries, it will maintain 1/2 the output relative to the output with fresh alkaline batteries.


Misc comments
The battery arrangement allows for shorter length while being about the same diameter as the Sears light. In my opinion, this light has an excellent thermal solution. It actually uses the Luxeon star, which is mounted onto a piece of aluminum with thermal compound and the piece screws into the body securely creating a good thermal path. Just for comparison, the Sears Tool Light has a horrible thermal solution. Luxeon emitter mounted on a PR base and installed into a plastic socket will make the assembly too hot to touch.

High temperature is bad, because the efficiency, output and life of the LED are all reduced.

Now for photos....






Feel free to respond/private message if you have comments/questions.

Nice review and info!

IMHO, this light is built like a tank. Nice simple straightforward design to take all sorts of abuse. I agree on the proper heatsinking design that used, no concern of overheating.

Interesting to note the 2 ohm resistor used.
I am using a 1 ohm with a 1W Luxeonstar in a modded 3AAA. But I am running only on NiMHs. I've had no issues and I don't have as good a heatsink solution.
You may like to try swapping the resistor and get more yield from that Star.

Can you post a pic of the carrier?
Do you think it would take a 18650 rechargeable lith?
thanks for the review.

I have the same light, and have had problems with flickering. I as well have disasembled it, to see where the problem was. There was a bad solder joint between the emitter and resistor. I love the design of this light. It is comfortable to hold and i like the beam. I plalyed aroudn with it a while, and I think i can fit two 123s in there. Definitly one will fit easily. I plan on putting a driver and lux3 in there as soon as i get a chance. There is plenty of room to fit a driver with the aaa holder in the light. The cavity where the resistor is housed provides ample space.

Note: I like the body better without the black rubber grip.

How does this light compare to the Dorcy Metal Gear?
Have you checked runtime on the Lowe's light?
How does the beam compare to the MetalGear?

I've been looking at this light, but performance-wise, not counting form-factor, etc, would you recommend I buy this light...or another MetalGear?

what the bin on the lux?

I have the 2XC 3W version of this light, got it at Lowe's for $40. Great, super bright light. Love it.

flashlife said:

How does this light compare to the Dorcy Metal Gear?
Have you checked runtime on the Lowe's light?
How does the beam compare to the MetalGear?

I've been looking at this light, but performance-wise, not counting form-factor, etc, would you recommend I buy this light...or another MetalGear?

Click to expand...

OK...Ignore my previous questions...I found a thread here that compares the Lowe's 1 watt to the Metal Gear. DOH!
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=88971&highlight=Task+Force


Maglite:
How did you dis-assemble the head? Is it a simple screw-on, press-fit...??
If it's bright enough, I may actually UP the resistor value to trade output for runtime.

Randy Shackleford said:

what the bin on the lux?

Click to expand...

The Star is fitted into a recessed aluminum holder. It's in there so tight I can't even get it out.

WNG said:

Nice review and info!

IMHO, this light is built like a tank. Nice simple straightforward design to take all sorts of abuse. I agree on the proper heatsinking design that used, no concern of overheating.

Interesting to note the 2 ohm resistor used.
I am using a 1 ohm with a 1W Luxeonstar in a modded 3AAA. But I am running only on NiMHs. I've had no issues and I don't have as good a heatsink solution.
You may like to try swapping the resistor and get more yield from that Star.

Click to expand...

I took it apart again. Looks like modding is not practical. The Luxeon Star and the PCB that forms the contact point for battery are fit snugly and appears to be crimped from the side. The resistor is placed in between the board and the Luxeon Star, so changing out isn't too easy and not exactly worth the effort.

Can you tell me the approx diameter of the optic?
Thanks

Lowe's/Task Force 2C 3W pics

ment to post this in a different thread...
did not mean to thread crap...my mistake

flashlife said:

OK...Ignore my previous questions...I found a thread here that compares the Lowe's 1 watt to the Metal Gear. DOH!
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=88971&highlight=Task+Force


Maglite:
How did you dis-assemble the head? Is it a simple screw-on, press-fit...??
If it's bright enough, I may actually UP the resistor value to trade output for runtime.

Click to expand...

the head/body junction is just threaded. once you have the head off, there is a pcb (where the batery contact is) pressfitted into a threaded aluminum disk. the resistor is housed in a cavity inside teh aluminum disk. the star is on the other side of the disk sort of crimped into place, with thermal epoxy between it and the aluminum disk. the whole aluminum disk/star/pcp threads up inot the head and hold the optic in place. you have to use something like tweezers or very small needle nose pliers to unscrew the disk assembly (insert them into slots on either side of the pcb).

EDIT
the only way i was able to remove the pcb was by inserting a small screw driver through the hole where the lead for the LED comes through the aluminum disk and mushing it our from behind. note that this took a good bit of force. changing out teh resistor wouldn't be easy, but if you are good at this sort of thing it could be done. getting it back together without some sort of press might be difficult.

maglite said:

the head/body junction is just threaded. once you have the head off, there is a pcb (where the batery contact is) pressfitted into a threaded aluminum disk. the resistor is housed in a cavity inside teh aluminum disk. the star is on the other side of the disk sort of crimped into place, with thermal epoxy between it and the aluminum disk. the whole aluminum disk/star/pcp threads up inot the head and hold the optic in place. you have to use something like tweezers or very small needle nose pliers to unscrew the disk assembly (insert them into slots on either side of the pcb).
the only way i was able to remove the pcb was by inserting a small screw driver through the hole where the lead for the LED comes through the aluminum disk and mushing it our from behind. note that this took a good bit of force. changing out teh resistor wouldn't be easy, but if you are good at this sort of thing it could be done. getting it back together without some sort of press might be difficult.

Click to expand...

Thanks, Maglite.

Oh Well...I think I'll leave it alone...for now.

Mine only draws ~350ma, so maybe the runtime will be long enough to suit me.