cmacclel said:I'm glad you like it but a $200+ light with a plastic tailcap thats prone to breaking alignment tabs off is a definetly a turn off for me.
Mac
cmacclel said:I'm glad you like it but a $200+ light with a plastic tailcap thats prone to breaking alignment tabs off is a definetly a turn off for me.
Mac
TENMMIKE said:I WONDER HOW THIS CONTUES TO COME UP, iv never seen people so stuck on a non issue in my life , its almost if the persons are predisposed to not understanding the features and why they are the way they are, i don't like the little key way either but ITS NOT A BIG FRIGGEN DEAL, i can change my batteries just as fast in my gladius as my u-2 (12-13 seconds)(acutualy a little faster as it easier to get turn the cap on and off ) having a u-2 that flat wont turn on as is a problem with them ( not mine) would sure as hell be a bigger issue to me, the cap on the gladius was designed the way it was on purpose ,not to be cheap, its designed so that it will work if dropped in mud ( the grit wont jam the cap up)and to handled by a person wearing gloves. .. BTW iv got both lights
OF COURCe YOU CAN VOICE YOUR OPINION AND PERHAPS I WAS A BIT HASTY , ITS THAT I BELIVE THIS "problem" is over exgerated is brought up generaly by people that heard or read somthing a long time ago and it keeps beig passed along as a fact, the plastic tail cap actualy has two functins , one is the mud ( not the mud that is just a kinda like pudding, but more like mud/fine sand and gravel edge of a stream type stuff) , the polymer will yeald to the little gravel/sand and the cap will turn still,( a metal cap will just jam with the all that grit) also it serves a sacrafical part that the plastic does not transmit all the force of a drop to the cap acting sort of as a minor bumper to a point and it is designed so if the force is so great that if it breaks, the tail cap will still function thus the light is still functional.generaly most metal caps would just cease to work, one last thing the gladius has a great power manegment system, so that if left on say 20 min it turns itself down just a hair to save batts ( its hard to see the drop) but saves quite a bit of power, if you do notice it and want max again just push the button and back to full if thats what you want , the logic of this is that after 20 min you probobly need more runtime then full bright,( like say your on a search)( the brightness difference is small) all on its own, also fully temp regulated to protect itself ,BUT if you gotta push the light hard cause you have a life or death situation it can be forced to ignore its own self preservation by a simple push of the button, and it will soldier on ,back at full power sacraficing its own l.e.d life span, so that you may live to fight another day., i hope this helps.cmacclel said:Gee I guess I shouldn't voice my opinion it might offend people. Like I said I got to play with both units on Friday night................I guess it KEEPS COMING UP as you so put it because PEOPLE MUST NOT BE HAPPY about it....................make sense? During the Pass around people where warned about the difficulty with installing the tailcap and yet some "Flashaholic" still managed to break the NUB off after being warned numerous times about it. So the tailcap design is plastic so mud won't JAM it up? Could this only be acheived with plastic?? Why not aluminum?
Mac
magic79 said:This "plastic tailcap" crap is a laugh. I have been a photographer since the 70s when I was in high school. I recall endless arguments denigrating "plastic" cameras. ALL 35mm SLRs and digital SLRs have plastic skins now.