Jasper Curve Mod

Can I mod the Jasper curve laser? It has no pot and has a special computer chip APC. Look here for pictures of it dissasembled and to read what others told me. http://forum.wickedlasers.com/viewtopic.php?t=3516&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=jasper+curve&sid=878030110aed882f893d83a2b96d34ca

I don't know the answer to your question, but I'd like to know if you can get it to focus properly, when you put it back together?

Yes it focuses fine. It has very good divergence and stability and I have droped it several times. I just want it stronger. Anybody...

Please take some DECENT macro photos where the traces and resistor numbers are plain to see. Front and back. With the black plastic support removed. Take them in good lighting. Maybe then there will be some suggestions.

Here are some much better pics:










Please help!! Thank you.

those are a lot better, but the shot of the top of the circuit board, wires and shadows still obscure many of the parts and traces. have a look here
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/92374
for an example of the ideal photos.

It appears that the 6-lead IC may be a I2C programmable pot. The pads (squares of exposed copper) are used to set it during manufacture. The right pad is +V, middle four are ? and leftmost is obviously batt gnd. the chip C51 is an op-amp just like in the 110's.

The following is entirely your own risk. Only you are responsible for what you do to your laser.
If you are feeling lucky, you can try this - take a 5k resistor and connect it to +V on one side. Then probe each of the 4 middle pads and see if the laser brightens any. At least two of the pads will have no response since they are the digital programming pads. If it does, that pad is the control pad for the brightness, and you can try different reistances till you reach a max. of 320 mA battery draw.

good luck.

I didn't get everything you said but I get the main Idea. Will the APC still be limmiting the power or does this modification skip over the APC? Where can i get resistors that are suitable. Could I just take something apart and use one of the resistors inside it? Also I don't have soldering equipment. Should I get some?

Thanks for your help. Could you maybe describe it to me more simply? Why am I creating a circuit between two pads of copper that were not originally conected? Can't I just find a resistor and replace it with one that lets more current through?

Go to radio shack and get some alligator clips and an assortment pack of resistors. And a soldering gun/silver solder. Every tweaker should have one!
Connect one alligator clip to the +V (brass shell) and the lother clip to the resistor lead. Then probe on the board with the other resistor lead. Be sure not to short anything.

Yes the APC will still be in effect. We are only targetting the control side not the feedback side.

Since this circuit has not been fully analysed there is no known simple resistor replacement. Besides, those resistors are SMALL. Once we have it figured out better (perhaps someone will donate one to corona or me for analysis) a definitive mod can be posted.

how did you get the circuit out?

How much would all this cost? Could I get a solder iron for like $10?

Morelite: Do you have one? I was mainly just experimenting. I thought maybe the top cap on the laser would screw off. DON'T TRY TO SCREW IT OFF. First get a small knife and pry off the plastic button. It is not glued in very well so this is easy you just have to get under it. Under the button you will see black plastic. Bassically just get some small needle nosed pliers and grab onto the top cap with them. Pull it straight off. I did this through much experimentation. Also, take the batteries out and leave the compartment opened so you can see through the back. When the cap comes off you will see it brings the entire assembly with it. The cap is screwed onto the diode and when you unscrew it you will see the lense. You can take off the black plastic on the driver board without breaking it. I sort of pried it where it was slit and then turned it around the driver board. It was easy to pull off after that. If you put it back in without the black plastic, when you try to push the button the driver board will bend down which is bad.

Hope that helped.

Also, what is a 5k resistor? What would happen if I just used a wire,paperclip or piece of graphite (theoretically)?

Some people have told me I need to cut the black and red wires going from the driver board into the diode because this is the feedback. Is this a good idea or not?

Entity said:

Also, what is a 5k resistor?

Click to expand...

a 5 thousand Ohm resistor. Because it's a resistor, Ohm is impled. The numerical suffixes.. G, M, k, m, u, n, p.. What grade do they teach that now?

Entity said:

What would happen if I just used a wire,paperclip or piece of graphite (theoretically)?

Click to expand...

(theoretically) you are more likely to burn it out.

Entity said:

Some people have told me I need to cut the black and red wires going from the driver board into the diode because this is the feedback. Is this a good idea or not?

Click to expand...

I have an APC laser that gets dimmer when I only cut the feedback. All depends on the circuit and op-amp. It's worth a shot the wires are easy to solder back on. I dothink RS sells a soldering pencil for about $10.