Blindasabat
Flashlight Enthusiast
* NOW CLOSED to new orders * - CR123 twisty - 2-stage CR2
<13-Nov : Minor updates at end of thread>
<edit 9/19/06> NOW CLOSED TO NEW ORDERS. I have no more housings to make more than I have on the list. I am working my way down the list as these still take a lot of my limited time to make. I test each one and add solder to the center post as needed to tune it for short turn from low to high.
Thanks to everyone on the list I will get to you soon.
<edit 8/16/06> Now taking orders from those who posted interest - as my material quantity is limited for now. $14 each with your choice of 10, 15, 20, 24, or 30 ohms. Other ohm ratings by special request.
* See post #63 for positive beta test report *
I have an idea I have been developing to make a simple drop-in puck that would fit in a single cell CR123 twisty along with a CR2 or RCR2 to make any 1x 123 twisty into a two stage CR2 twisty light.
<edit 7/28/06> I will only make less than 10 ohm pieces by special request, but 5 ohm is possible. Most people will want to use these in high power lights, and wattage requirements are lower at higher ohm levels. 5 ohms requires 0.75W. To do this, I will need to use two 0.5W 10ohm resistors, which complicates assembly.
The concept goes like this:
A CR123 is roughly 34mm long by 16mm diameter.
A CR2 is 26.6 to 27mm long by 15.5mm (or less) diameter.
An RCR2 in a CR123 cavity leaves 6.6 to 7mm in length and 16mm diameter to make a disk housing a spring and resistor.
<See picture of mock-up in post #19 below>
In operation:
1) At first contact with the battery and LED PCB, the current has to flow through the resistor for low level.
2) Continue to tighten the battery tube to the head and you compress a leaf spring to ground out to a direct path - bypassing the resistor for full power. Full power of a CR2.
**This may also allow some clicky lights to have two stage. Twist closed a little for low clicky, tighten more to engage high, like the Fenix L1T.**
This general concept has been incorporated in lights for several years and I have seen it in the Orb Raw, FireFly2, McLux (I think) and most recently the Fenix L1T (in a slightly different way). But this is a simple retrofit that you will be able to drop into your favorite Peak, Amilite, Jet-1 CR123, or Fenix Rocket. Even the two stage R123 lights will be able to retrofit for 4 stage output and lower moon modes.
This would allow RCR2's in most CR123 lights that don't currently fit RCR123. It's up to you to make sure the resulting voltage is not too high.
So the question is:
Is anyone interested in getting in on a small build? Should I transform my graph paper designs to CAD? Should I collect parts? Will people buy them? The more interest, the more costs will drop, since I think I will need one part machined at a shop. I estimate cost around $20 and will try to keep it down as low as possible, especially for the initial build.
-Mark
<13-Nov : Minor updates at end of thread>
<edit 9/19/06> NOW CLOSED TO NEW ORDERS. I have no more housings to make more than I have on the list. I am working my way down the list as these still take a lot of my limited time to make. I test each one and add solder to the center post as needed to tune it for short turn from low to high.
Thanks to everyone on the list I will get to you soon.
<edit 8/16/06> Now taking orders from those who posted interest - as my material quantity is limited for now. $14 each with your choice of 10, 15, 20, 24, or 30 ohms. Other ohm ratings by special request.
* See post #63 for positive beta test report *
I have an idea I have been developing to make a simple drop-in puck that would fit in a single cell CR123 twisty along with a CR2 or RCR2 to make any 1x 123 twisty into a two stage CR2 twisty light.
<edit 7/28/06> I will only make less than 10 ohm pieces by special request, but 5 ohm is possible. Most people will want to use these in high power lights, and wattage requirements are lower at higher ohm levels. 5 ohms requires 0.75W. To do this, I will need to use two 0.5W 10ohm resistors, which complicates assembly.
The concept goes like this:
A CR123 is roughly 34mm long by 16mm diameter.
A CR2 is 26.6 to 27mm long by 15.5mm (or less) diameter.
An RCR2 in a CR123 cavity leaves 6.6 to 7mm in length and 16mm diameter to make a disk housing a spring and resistor.
<See picture of mock-up in post #19 below>
In operation:
1) At first contact with the battery and LED PCB, the current has to flow through the resistor for low level.
2) Continue to tighten the battery tube to the head and you compress a leaf spring to ground out to a direct path - bypassing the resistor for full power. Full power of a CR2.
**This may also allow some clicky lights to have two stage. Twist closed a little for low clicky, tighten more to engage high, like the Fenix L1T.**
This general concept has been incorporated in lights for several years and I have seen it in the Orb Raw, FireFly2, McLux (I think) and most recently the Fenix L1T (in a slightly different way). But this is a simple retrofit that you will be able to drop into your favorite Peak, Amilite, Jet-1 CR123, or Fenix Rocket. Even the two stage R123 lights will be able to retrofit for 4 stage output and lower moon modes.
This would allow RCR2's in most CR123 lights that don't currently fit RCR123. It's up to you to make sure the resulting voltage is not too high.
So the question is:
Is anyone interested in getting in on a small build? Should I transform my graph paper designs to CAD? Should I collect parts? Will people buy them? The more interest, the more costs will drop, since I think I will need one part machined at a shop. I estimate cost around $20 and will try to keep it down as low as possible, especially for the initial build.
-Mark
Last edited: