Hello. If you were still interested in putting the RBG light in a Maglight and you want to change the color by twisting the head, you should know it can be done. I rigged up a Quad TXOH Luxeon III 2D Maglight that can be dimmed by twisting the head. Since the o-sink may not be easy to use with the way I attached the potentiometer, you can always up the power and use the tri-luxeon heatsink (the PTS or PTS-2) and have three of those RBG Z-LED's. Those Z-LED's are shaped like the Luxeon emitters, right? If so, then it should work, just mount them on some old luxeon star boards (if they aren't already on a hex shaped board). Use 3 SO20XA reflectors and you will just love the output (if the RBG driver can power three of them).
The reason I say to use the tri or quad luxeon heatsink is that there is a center hole that you can use for the potentiometer for changing the colors. You may be able to rig the o-sink, but it would be challenging since it sits in the maglite body. The tri and quad heatsinks sit in the head of the Maglite. Check out the pictures I added. I finally got a server running and I can post pictures of my projects!
See how that works? Now here are the ideas actually applied in my Quad Lux3 maglite mod:
So, there you go. You see how I have the potentiometer mounted to the body of the maglite? You will have to create some sort of holder out of a sheet of steel, brass, or aluminum. You will bend it into a C shape, then drill a hole to mount the pot and the two holes to screw onto the body (use short sheet metal screws). Make sure you drill the holes in the maglite body first, then mark the holes for the potentiometer holder. This will make it much easier and save you the hassle. Make sure you prepare the holes on the maglite body so when the screw is tightened, nothing will stick up past the threads so you can smoothly screw on the head of the flashlight without binding. Use a larger drill bit to do this and use screws with a tapered head.
As a warning, there are still small bugs with my system. You have to make sure that you make that little C-clip in the hole of the heatsink so it allows the D-shaft of the potentiometer to slide in smoothly without too much wiggle room. You may find that grounding the pot to the ground (body of the flashlight) may cause small problems with the driver circuit (as it did with the Fatman driver). In that case, just wrap a little teflon tape around the D-shaft first.
Also, make sure the pot can handle the torque as you turn it fully one way or another. There is a little mechanical stop that can break or wear out with the cheaper pots. This way, when you turn the head, you wont have to worry about over twisting any wires.
If you use this idea with three of those Z-LED's, please leave feedback! I would love to see my idea work out for someone else. I am long over due for posting these pictures on a thread I made that was made for my idea. Check it out here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/110645&page=1&pp=20
Good luck!