Fenix L1T mod => CYAN

cm048 · May 20, 2006

Comparing to L1P, it is fairly easy to dissemble Fenix L1T head. I took 3 L1T heads apart last night. Just install Q2H in L1T, the driving options offered by L1T is incredible. I really like L1T, it is perfect for color mod. Look at combination offered by L1T below.

L1T with Q2H

==========

Vin____Mode____Vf________Emitter Current (mA)
1.5____Lo______2.65______68
_______Hi______2.85______150
1.2____Lo______2.68______69
_______Hi______2.85______145
3.7____Lo______3.25______530
_______Hi______3.53______920

It is unbelievable tint and brightness at 920 mA, however 530 mA is not much dimmer.

Mirage_Man · May 20, 2006

cm048 said:
Comparing to L1P, it is fairly easy to dissemble Fenix L1T head. I took 3 L1T heads apart last night.

What tool do you use to take the LE out? Got any pictures?

Is it possible to make the "low" lower? I plan on putting a F4FR in one. But from the early reports the low would still be way to high for map reading with a F4FR.

Thanks,
Brian

cm048 · May 20, 2006

It is mini pliers in the picture below. You can notice from the picture that I dremel its tips to make it fitted the turning slot. Pay attention when turn, you need to apply impulse back and forth force, NOT brute force ! good lubrication is a must during turning. Keep in mind that you are tuning against circuit board that epoxied over the brass housing. I needed to heat up one of the 3 heads to have it opened.

This also depends on production batch like L1P in the beginning which is much easy to open. For L1T, I originally planed to drill a hole under turning slot for better grip. Luckily, I could manage without that.

I did not remove the drive engine yet.

Why do you want to lower the lower ? It is only 69 mA to the emitter form NiMH cell in low mode. Just use 1.2V cell for map reading.

DUQ · May 20, 2006

Wow nice tint. Much better than the one I got recently. A little more urine like mine is.

Mirage_Man · May 20, 2006

DUQ said:
Wow nice tint. Much better than the one I got recently. A little more urine like mine is.

I believe that is a CYAN led not the stock one.

Mirage_Man · May 20, 2006

BTW cm048 aren't you worried about overdriving that LUX I wth the LI 3.7V?

DUQ · May 21, 2006

Mirage_Man said:
I believe that is a CYAN led not the stock one.

Yes, I was referring to the cyan tint and not the stock one. I have a cyan LUX and it has a horrid tint.

Mirage_Man · May 21, 2006

DUQ said:
Yes, I was referring to the cyan tint and not the stock one. I have a cyan LUX and it has a horrid tint.

Really? That sucks..

cm048 · May 21, 2006

Mirage_Man,

Picture below per your request. This is my second L1T, not yet modify. LE was potted to the brass housing. Removable ? depends on the amount of the epoxy Fenix used. I am not willing to risk destroying driving circuit in this step as I plan to put G2GH there.

The Lo resistor is between GND (green wire), and Vin (-). If you can remove LE from housing, yes.. changing Lo resistor will make Lo lower.

With standard white luxeon, L1T has tight hot spot. Color emitter will make wider hot spot especially the red one. If not enough, I suggest 18mm UCL-LDF lens. You can also splutter the reflector (I am going to splutter my CYAN one soon). Just step by step until you get what you need.

Mirage_Man · May 21, 2006

Wow! Thanks for the pics.

So does it appear to you that it would destroy the driver removing it? It's hard to tell from the picture the amount of epoxy that's holding it together.

Erasmus · May 21, 2006

I have modded a L2P with a cyan LED too, but the beam pattern wasn't very nice. And by accident I found this solution : http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=113373 Works great to get a smooth beam from my cyan LED L2P

By the way, for those interested in modifying their L1P/L2P, here's a tutorial : http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=113371 I hope it will also work for L1T/L2T

cm048 · May 21, 2006

Yes, I use only 3.7 V Li-ion for bluer tint. Driving Lux I Q2HC at 900 mA is crazy. However, it is not easy to balance between lifespan and color shift toward blue ! I light it up normally with 500 mA Lo mode.

L1T is not exactly the same as LxP. It is more fragile to remove housing from the head and they use epoxy between hosing and driver board. Potted ? I don't know I only hated epoxy. I guess it will be difficult with apply epoxy only at the edge for gluing department.

For CYAN L1T, I installed IMS17 reflector. It has much better beam pattern than the stock one. I will try to splutter stock reflector….. If it does not work, I will try the one Erasmus mentioned.

Erasmus, is it much dimmer for peeled reflector ?

Erasmus · May 21, 2006

cm048 said:
L1T is not exactly the same as LxP. It is more fragile to remove housing from the head and they use epoxy between hosing and driver board. Potted ? I don't know I only hated epoxy. I guess it will be difficult with apply epoxy only at the edge for gluing department.

The L1P/L2P's I've modded had epoxy too, it's a hard job to get it open when there's a lot of epoxy.

cm048 said:
For CYAN L1T, I installed IMS17 reflector. It has much better beam pattern than the stock one. I will try to splutter stock reflector….. If it does not work, I will try the one Erasmus mentioned.

What's the difference in beam pattern? Better hotspot? More flood? Please tell me

cm048 said:
Erasmus, is it much dimmer for peeled reflector ?

Global output will be about the same. The hotspot is less bright, and there is more sidespill.

cm048 · May 21, 2006

One day, I will dremel both driving circuit and epoxy to dust and get FLuPIC in place !

IMS17 offers better hotspot to Q2HC, close but still a bit wider than white emitter + stock reflector. I prefer hotspot.

Cons for IMS => only 17 mm while stock is 18mm, need to make it 18mm with extra tape around reflector for center alignment.
=> No screw to push len againts head.

nexro · Jun 27, 2006

Finally got the module out! The circuit board on mine came off when I was unscrewing the module. Part of the board is broken at the edges but the module still works. The components are glued (epoxied?) with some sort of black material. Here's a pic of it:

Fenix L1T mod => CYAN

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