Transmission opinions, please.

I know there was a related thread recently, but I think this situation is a little different, so I appreciate your forbearance.

The automatic transmission on a '92 Camry was recently overhauled/rebuilt. About three miles after driving out of the mechanic's garage, the car became "unresponsive." (Stepping on the gas, the engine revved, but the car wouldn't pick up speed. Tried shifting down into 2nd gear, but same response. Pulled over to the side of the road, and after stopping, shifted into reverse, and again, nothing.)

The car was towed back to the garage, and when the mechanic started up the car, the transmission worked! They then supposedly tested the car over about 30+ miles, and had no problems.

Anyone have any experience and/or knowledge about what could have happened? Was this a fluke, or an indication of what's to come? Thanks for any responses/ideas.

Maybe they just didn't fill the fluid up all the way? Did they road test it BEFORE handing the keys to you the first time?

Mark

Powernoodle says take it to another transmission guy for a 2nd opinion. Could be something as easy as the shift linkage that needs to be adjusted (the mechanical link between your shifter and the tranny). I once had a Mercury Cougar with an out-of-adjustment shift linkage, and it mimics the symptoms of a tranny problem because you put it in Drive and step on the gas but nothing happens.

cheers

I don't know much about new cars...but on my old Mustang, a vacuum line came off the tranny once and caused the same symptoms. As said, fluid might have been low or there may have been a loose vacuum line that they found and hooked up really quick-like.

JM-99

Thank you very much for the responses. The mechanic didn't have time to check the vacuum line--we were standing right there. But it is certainly worth looking into. I'll also have to put a bug in the mechanic's ear about the fluid level and shift linkage.

In thinking about it, the fluid level sounds possible, for the transmission went out just after cresting a hill on a right "turn" onto a freeway interchange. Then again, the mechanic claims to have fully test-driven the car...so we'll see.

Thanks again!

A lot of shops that do transmissions are part of a transmission association; you should have received a certificate of warranty and it will have the pertinent information.

This allows you to go to any other shop that's a part of this same association for maintenance and repairs and they can all access the same database. (Not that there will be any relevant mechanic's notes in there I'm sure, but at least there's a paper trail.)

Ive called around and found many transmission shops will look at your or mine tranny and for a small fee inspect and offer a possible fix in addition to the usual rebuild or replacement. Ive been told for as little as 23 bucks it could be more drivable with my slippage problem. I ve been too busy to head to one of those shops.

My guest, from what my coworkers say, low or tranny fluid or the internal pump has a problem.

Some Toyota trannies are sensitive to over or under filling. Some symptoms can be shudder, seems like the clutches are slipping or not engaging...if it is spec'd for Toyota Type __ they have to use the current Toyota Type IV tranny fluid only.

How was the condition of the fluid before the service? Any symptoms of shifting problems prior? My guess is they didn't fill it to the right level/low.

My Dads truck has a flakey E4OD tranny in it. We spent a few hours today flushing the cooling lines, changing the filter etc.

I took it out for a test drive, and it will reverse, go forward strongly in 1 or 2 but do nothing in D. That is until on a whim I turned OD off.

It has NOTHING to do with your problem. But I'll throw in my 8 cents here and also say the fluid level may be goofy.

I had a lot of gun and run driving today, little stop and go. Tranny did fairly well, it only slipped on level surfaces when giving no throttle.

Beats me what is going on inside the computer controlled thing. I talked to a few mechanics at work about what the tranny shops told me. They said that is just scam to get you in the door that they will service it for real cheap, they said I was looking at a grand at least.

probably a bit of dirt got stuck somewhere and had to work out.
had the governor hang up after i rebuilt the 700r4 in my van.
easy to fix but shows it doesnt take much to cause trouble.
in your case it could have been an air bubble in the valve body.

Yeah, it didnt slip today, HOO, HOO. I gunned and run it through the hizzie (Inner City), and no problems. At every chance, I press the gas petal half way down and release when I reach the speed limit. Way more fun than driving like an old lady. Fun to watch folks catch up to me from stop lights.

One time it up shifted twice while making at turn at 35mph when I gave it gas to maintain speed, another time I switched lanes to get around someone turning in the middle of the road. With a 35mph top speed limit, you got to just out accelerate the others and man, this van can accelerate, unless it slips.

Also I backed out of my space, put it in drive and kept my foot on the brake as I saw some kids coming by to walk to school. While sitting with it in drive I felt a clunk. Normally I feel one when going to drive or reverse, but this was just sitting still. Guess it was getting ready to roll?

cobb said:

While sitting with it in drive I felt a clunk. Normally I feel one when going to drive or reverse, but this was just sitting still. Guess it was getting ready to roll?

Click to expand...

Check your u-joints. "Clunk" normally isn't a good thing.

http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/html/ccr/ccr20050301uj.html
Symptoms of worn u-joints include clunking when you put the vehicle in gear, or vibration that matches transmission output speeds. At best, a worn u-joint causes vibration and clunky operation. At worst, a suddenly broken u-joint can cause an accident.

Click to expand...

JM-99
(emphasis mine on both)

U-joints are NOT fun things. They are quite NECCESARY though!

The rear end was clunky in the "Beast" (the 1990 F350). Sounds like that van has the correct ratios to be fun! May not be the best for mileage however...

I did wiggle the drive shaft, it felt tight, at least ta the u joint. There was some play in the differential, which is normal.

I think after reading an article on click and clack, I have a sticking locking torque converter. Thats the delayed release and clunking I feel. It seems to do this when it shouldnt giving me the funny things driving. Strange why when driving agressively it wont slip, yet like an old lady it does.

Yeah, a loose u joint can cause you to snap it off if you do not preload a car before launching it. Not a bad idea to hold the brake when puting it in gear, then releasing the brake.

Yeah, I too thought it was a quick answer or a computer code read out from auto zone would of solved my problem. Turns out there is no such simple easy answer. The computer codes pointed to emmission errors.

I hate for you guys to waste any more time on this. If I had the money I would of taken it to a shop, gotten the tranny rebuilt or just sold it as is and get something better. I am borderline not being able to pay the min payment on my credit card and am trying to find a second job or a better first one. Ive went on a few interviews, filled out a few applications and used all three resume websites, not to mention my local paper.

I think I will be ok money wise as is, did a balance transfer to a new card that states to have no interest til next year and no transfer fee, as long as I make timely payments. Ive had my parents shred my other credit cards, minue my gas card and debit card. My gas card gives me 10% off for first 90 days. I have half off my rent this summer and trying my best to get in a sold 40 hours, even this week with the holiday Monday.

BTW, click and clack said to unplug the torque converter, but fuel economy would plunge 30-40%

I had a toggle switch wired in where I could turn off the TC at will on my 1990 F350. I don't think it costed me 30% however.

Even that aerodynamic BRICK could get about 15.3MPG avg.

If you can find the info on which wire to cut into, you can see what no TC does reversably!

I dont know pb, seems each time i drive it the oil pressure meter reads lower and lower. Wont be long before its in the red. I did change the oil when I got it to 10w40. Going to put 20w50 in it next time or a stiffner before hand. Filled up with gas today, tried using the pump on the lowest possible grip to fill up, still leaked gas.

I think junking it aint a bad idea. Working with my dad to see what he wants to do with his old mercedes. At least it has AC.