Get surefire like beam from bad reflectors! Many Pics!

Hi all!

I was digging up old threads and found one that talks about frosting (etching) bulbs with acid to get better beam from smooth crappy reflectors and decided to give it a try.

I went to a arts and crafts store and bought Armour Etch etching cream, The 3 ounce plastic bottle has enough to frost 100's of bulbs and it costs $6 and change.


Acid is a nasty substance and great care should be taken in handling or serious injury may occur, I used eye protection and gloves in a well ventilated area. follow directions of use and use it at your own risk!

I used a Xenon/Led/CCFL light that has good throw but suffers from a bad case of rings and artifacts in the beam,



http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=

To do the treatment the bulb's glass surface should be clean and free of oils and dirt, I used needle nose pliers to grab the bulb by its metal base and dip it into the etching cream all the way up to where the glass touches the metal base and rotate it and move it around so the cream gets into all the surface of the glass.

I also used a chronometer to accurately measure how much time it needs for a usable frost, some bulbs have a tougher glass and takes longer so practice with burned out bulbs of the ones you plan to use.

Light frost gives best compromise for removing artifacts and keeping good throw, I did the tests using Walmart Rayovac 3D Krypton bulbs, model KPR-103 rated at 3.6V / 0.75 amps with four rested energizer 2500 mah NiMh for a little overdrive.

now for some pics.

The bulbs



Closeup of the bulbs, same order as above, notice how the filament towers dissapear as the frosting increases



Beamshots, Stock, 30, 60 and 90 second frosted bulbs compared to a Stock E2e on the right.

Stock


30 Second on frosting cream, still some rings but way better than stock!


60 seconds on frosting cream, rings are gone! Surefire beam!



90 seconds on frosting cream, now the E2e is starting to look brighter, absolutely no artifacts or rings!



I think the 30-60 second is the best compromise, but it may take more or less time depending on the bulb glass you plan to use.

Hope you like the little review.

AlexGT

Disclaimer: I'm not responsible if you try the frosting cream and something stupid happens and you end up hurt, follow directions of use and use it at your own risk!!!

Excellent tutorial with nice pics!!

I have that same jar of (as yet unused) Armour Etch. I bought it at Michael's for $11 with the intent of frosting a 6D Maglite lamp for use in a 2C host running three CR123 cells.

Nice pictorial! I've just used 320/400 grit sandpaper with the bulb chucked in a drill to the same effect.

I did just that but used the 5cell XenonStar for the 2c ROP it is brighter with no instaflashes, several cycles on the batteries too, the beam is gorgeous!

AlexGT

Mag 2C ROP LE / Xenonstar 5 cell bulb

Forgot to add, the xenonstar glass is softer, it only takes 20 seconds on Armour etch for the result shown.

AlexGT

How do you remove the etching cream? With a cloth or with water or what?

are there any bulbs to avoid? I'm thinking about doing this with the primary on the night com...

I used water to remove the cream from the bulbs, As for what bulbs to avoid, I have no idea, I say try several and let us know the results.

AlexGT

easy enough.

Thank You for the tips!

Looks pretty cool, nice post and pictures.

Thats' a nice, fresh idea! SureFire watch-out!

It really does work!

I have an approx. 30 second 1160 in my MC and it is nice!

ALL of my lights that can't accept aftermarket reflectors have frosted bulbs these days. It has noticeable less output loss than writeright etc.

I'm trying to recall something... I had AE on one bulb for well over an hour and it didn't even phase it! I THINK that it was an 1185 but it could have been a Carley 809.

Anyhow, if you are sitting on the fence JUMP OFF and give this a try! You may be VERY pleasantly suprised!

Possibly clear glue a tiny piece of aluminium kitchen foil to top of bulb, to reflect sideways ?

In the label says "It does not etch plastic and some pyrex" So it may not work on all bulbs.

AlexGT

This looks great!!
I wonder if it's safe on high pressure xenon/halogen bulbs. I use a Carley 1499 (per the Litho123 modification) on my TL-3, with great satisfaction except for the irregularity of the beam.

Henry

Is this stuff HF acid? be veeeeery carefull!!

It is! I used gloves, eyeprotection and handled the bulbs by its base with pliers in a well ventilated area. No problems here!

AlexGT

If you've read the earlier threads, you'll find out that some of the bulbs, as mentioned here to, takes some time to "frost" or possibly may not. The Welch~Allyns 01111, 01160, and 01274 took some time for me to "mist" them, going into the minutes.

I did try "misting" the Brinkmann Halogen 1 Million CP bulb to almost no avail.

I like that "time line" you've pictured above AlexGT! :thumbsup:

Enjoy!

Went out and bought some tonight for my stinger, didnt work, even after 10 min. I had to use sand paper to finish the job.

Kris

I've never tried a Stinger bulb, but then my Stinger never really dis-pleased me.

ANY stock M*G can use this nicely! Overdrive a bit (or more) and it's even better!

I even have done it to bulbs in faceted reflectors in many cases.