As far as your other question on the 4/3A NiMHs- I'm not *really* sure what you are asking, but here has been my experience:
So far I've only finished 3 lights with them (built 5 but destroyed 2 of them because of carelessness in the last few steps) Two of them are my CPLS models (3/4" copper pipe, 3X 4/3A batteries.) One with white and one with cyan LED. Plus I have also built an 8AA DB modded into a 6 X 4/3A (2 Parallel X 3 serial) with a white LS.
The Cyan CPLS really *Kicks Butt*, putting out an incredible 707 / 170,000 LUX (1 meter / contact with sensor) with a fresh charge. Four hours later, it is still putting out 519 / 125,000 LUX. but after 4 hours it starts falling off rapidly, and after 8 hours I'm only getting 76 / 16,430 LUX and it is usually "dead" after 10 - 12 hours. I was actually hoping for greater longevity, although the brightrness is double what I expected.
The white CPLS is less bright by far- only about 300 LUX initially, not much brighter than an ARC LS (I may have "over resistored" it). Similar discharge curve to the cyan CPLS. Again, I was a bit disappointed in the longevity.
Both of them get WAY too hot with continuous operation from a fresh charge- after 15 minutes or so, they make a good handwarmer for the winter, and are just about reaching their max. allowable junction temp (estimated). I've actually kept them in the freezer for the first couple of hours between measurements. Probably ought to paint them black to help bleed off some extra heat.
The DB Mod is my favorite mod so far, although it has not been fully tested- ~415 LUX @ 1 meter to start, nice white beam in the center, SLIGHT pea-green corona, but the best "throw" of any of the LED lights I've made or bought. Have only run it for an hour or so at a time a couple of times, and not much of a brightness drop.