Basic Mag Mod help request

chanamasala

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I want to try my first Mag mod. I'm looking for a Lux III on a 3 cell Mag that will give me flat regulation for 4-7 hours(prefereably C if that runtime is possible with it)

So far I figure I need a Hotlips heatsink/star holder(is this the right one?), glass lens, MOP reflector, but I don't know what kind of circuit board would fit and would provide that flat regulation. Could someone suggest one? I care more about flat regulation runtime with alkaline batteries as it will be my emergency long-runtime light so it doesn't need to be super bright. I have an extra UWOK. Would I be able to use this with the suggested circuit board and get the runtime I want? From my possibly wrong understanding, I need a buck converter. Does the buck converter automatically know to bring the 4.5v to the UWOK's Vf 3.51V - 3.75V? Does the buck converter know what an emitter's Vf is automatically and adjust or do you need a different converter for each different bin's Vf? My guess is that is knows automatically and that the difference between these converters is the amount of current they push to the emitter. What current would be good for this runtime? Could I push the 700ma to it and get that runtime? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 

Mirage_Man

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I think with an NFlex (which you can get from www.taskled.com) you could run the light on a very low setting and get an extended runtime. You would than have the ability of a bright light if you needed it.

I live in hurricane country (FLA). In fact I am water proofing my plywood today. I just came in for a break! :) I also needed an emergency light. I built a UWOK in a 3C M@G myself running it DD off the 3C alks and it's very bright. I am slightly overdriving it so I may just pick up an Nflex myself. I like the idea of an adjustable output versus a set output.

If you can solder and are mechanically inclined you shouldn't have too much trouble.

EDIT: after reading about the nFlex at Taskled.com I'm not sure it would function correctly on just 3 alks. I would email George and see what he recommends.

MM
 
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Sway

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Driving a LuxIII with a nFlex you need Vf+1.1V for it to remain in regulation. So take your U**K which has an upper Vf of 3.75V and add 1.1V for the nFlex and you get 4.85V, 3 alkaline cells = 4.5V, not enough.

You can get by with 4 cells but I would suggest 5 or more due to voltage sag and it will extend you run time.

Looking back at some old run time plots 6x2300 mAh AA NiMH cell will net around 2hr 30min run time in regulation set to the 1000mA drive level. Please note the cells I used were not of the best quality some of the newer name brand high capacity cells should return a longer run time.

I would suggest using rechargeable cells for the 700mA and higher drive levels Alkalines do not perform their best when push that hard.

Later
Kelly
 
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Mirage_Man

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Kelly,

I think the idea is to be able to run this light on alks. If the power is out for an extended period rechargables are useless if you can't charge them.

I built my 2D Tri-Lux with this in mind. It can run on 8 AA's or Nimh's. I am in the process of building another one for another CPF member as we speak. Granted runtime is not 7-8hrs. but if I wanted to I could add a Potentiometer turn it down and have that extended runtime. As soon as the Fatflex comes out I'll be swapping out the Fatman for it!

Most of my local LEO customers prefer lights that can run on either or. So do I for the most part.

MM
 
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Sway

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MM quite right, was just trying to give an example :)

3D cells and a FatMan should work but I've never tried with a LuxIII, it would run direct drive till the voltage dropped down to the Vf of the LED, may as well run it in direct drive and save the $$. I think Roy made a plot on this set up and got around 7 1/2 hours to 50% brightness.

I have a few power outage lights :grin2: one using a nFlex set to 500mA loaded with 6xAA lithium cells, I've never ran it all the way down but it should run for several hours on high a day or better on low.......it's stored with the tail cap off so the cells will be fresh when I need it.

So many combinations to think of :sigh:

Later
Kelly
 

jwl

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chanamasala - I have done a couple Mag mods and they are listed in my signature line. I got all the components from the Sandwhich Shoppe and the emitter from Photonfanatic (here on CPF, but you already have an emitter). Mine are all running on 3 D-cell alkalines BUT the other day I was just messing around and tried running on 2 cells. It worked. The emitter is a TWOH (nice low Vf) and it was no problem powering the emitter with the Wizard2 board.

Link to a build tutorial, couldn't find the other one I had.

Parts list:
Arctic Alumina 1.75g (thermal grease)
Arctic Alumina Adhesive (2 Part Epoxy)
Hotlips-D (or C if that's what you want)
Wizard2 520mA + Add a resistor NEW (Resistor2: .15) (937ma)
And (1) emitter

3 D-cells have no problem running a 'H" bin emitter for way more than 7 hours. Don't imagine you would have any trouble with a 'K' bin.
 

Sway

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jwl,

Nice suggestion, I was just looking at the Wiz2 and noticed it will run on 3 cells, a most excellent solution for a long run time 3C/D cell light.

Later
Kelly
 

Maro

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Lux III and FluPIC is how to be.
FluPIC has level control (1ー20), blink mode, and SOS mode.
On a low level, long run time is expectable (I have not measured with 3C alkaline).
Moreover, recently, beacon mode is added and I think that it is very useful in an emergency.
 

jar3ds

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could a flupic power a lux3 on burst with 3C alk's though?
 
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