Suggestions for first upgrade/fix on Nuwai 301X-3?

I have a Nuwai 301X-3 from last year, which is currently sitting on my shelf. I fried the board and led with 2 R123s.

I'm looking for a simple and inexpensive fix. Maybe $25 budget? (Alright, updated $35..)

I could probably fix the board, since the resistor is the only thing that seems to be bad. Though local radioshacks don't stock that particular one.

It would be great is all the parts can be bought from one place (save on shipping) and it was a simple procedure to get it all together and working. I have limited equipment, consisting of a cheap solder, screwdrivers and pliers.

I realize it's a tight budget, however if the mod could use R123s or rechargables and was simple, that might increase the budget by a tiny bit.

Thanks, I look forward to everybody's ideas.

My suggestion would be to get a flupic board and enforced glass lens (#7 and #18) from litemania ( http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=119033&highlight=flupic ) or goldserve ( http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=112678&highlight=flupic )together with 17670 batteries from Dae or AW at http://www.szwholesale.com/lc17670-1500mah-unprotected-p-98.html and http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=97268&highlight=17670 respectively. Get another premium led like the SXOH AW is selling now here http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=117888&highlight=sxoh and you are all set to give new life to your light.

Cost should be around $35 region but your light would be pretty good. Try to get protected 17670s if you are not too comfortable using unprotected li-ion which may lead to explosions. Also, if you must have the burst mode, get a premium lux III like the UxxJ or UxxK LEDs which would probably set you back $10 more than if you used the SXOH.

Hope this was helpful!

I'd go with either NotEnoughLight's suggestion which should cost about $35 + shipping or just getting a nice Lux (SXOH or one of the many U-bins on sale right now) and DD'ing it off a 17670.

I was going to ask what's so special about the SXOH since I already had a SX1K. Then I realized it was a lux 1 instead of a lux 3.

Could I just get the flupic board and a U-bin luxeon? I want to keep it as cheap as possible, while getting it to work. Do I just replace the original board, wire up the led and just insert into the body?

Am I limited to using any leds by using the flupic? Limited to any batteries?

Thanks for all the advice. Never modded flashlights before.

The SXOH costs around $10 wheras a U bin costs around $20. The flupic would cost a minimum of $15. A glass lens cost around $3. With $5 shipping for the flupic, your flupic and lens would cost around $23. The cost of the batteries will depend on the vendor you choose. If you really want to keep costs down, keep the original star till you are ready for more. Then look at other options for the LED.

NotEnoughLight said:

The SXOH costs around $10 wheras a U bin costs around $20. The flupic would cost a minimum of $15. A glass lens cost around $3. With $5 shipping for the flupic, your flupic and lens would cost around $23. The cost of the batteries will depend on the vendor you choose. If you really want to keep costs down, keep the original star till you are ready for more. Then look at other options for the LED.

Click to expand...

My original led is fried, so I'd have to get something. How bright is the SXOH compared to a UX1J/K using a flupic and 2xCR123s?

Does the flupic send out the same power out to the SXOH and UX1K? Does that mean the SXOH would be getting too much power?

I have to admit I'm every tempted by a very bright light, ignoring the cost a bit. Though, a long running 30-40lumen light would be equally good.

If you need another LED (you mentioned you have a SX1K like my 301X) then you just need to replace resistors to the appropriate level. If you fried your LED with RCR's, then you must have had a low end Vf so it was overdriving it. I ran RCR in mine for a while without problem, but never left it on for long knowing it was not heatsinked very well.
The 301 X has a direct drive board with (If I remember correctly) a 10 ohm 1W resistor. I couldn't find one at radioshack either when mine broke off it's board after I dropped it. I ended up just resoldering the original one and it works fine again.

Since you already have a two stage switch, I'd just replace the resistor with something with a little more resistance, either one step up to around 12 ohm (possibly 11 ohm by using two 22 ohm in parallel, or something similar) to make RCR's safer to use.

So a new LED and a couple of resistors would only put you back ~$20. You would reuse your simple Nuwai board as long as it's not damaged. I had to replace some of the ribbon on mine with copper solder wicking braid. Still cheap and easy.

aceo07 said:

My original led is fried, so I'd have to get something. How bright is the SXOH compared to a UX1J/K using a flupic and 2xCR123s?

Does the flupic send out the same power out to the SXOH and UX1K? Does that mean the SXOH would be getting too much power?

I have to admit I'm every tempted by a very bright light, ignoring the cost a bit. Though, a long running 30-40lumen light would be equally good.

Click to expand...

Some things to note :

1) the flupic will not run on more than 5V according to litemania.

2) 6V is too much for both the SXOH and the UX1K. They will go up in smoke before you can say "bye bye". The only way to do that is to use a buck circuit which the Sandwiche Shoppe has. The cost is in the region of $20 or less as well.

Although the price of a li-ion may be higher compared to a CR123a, I am sure you will be able to get back the savings within 2-3 months of moderate use. I would strongly encourage the use of li-ions regardless of the final decision you make in the modification of your light. Of course, this is only my humble opinion.

hmm.. so, if I get a downboy converter then I could use 2xR123s with the SXOH or any lux 3 led?

I would love to go R123s if possible or any other rechargeable if possible. That's one of the reason I went for the HDS U60.

Is it a simple process? Wire the converter to the led, and plop everything into place and it should work?

The Nuwai 301x-3 is supposed to have multiple levels, will it still have the ability to access those levels or was that built into the circuit I fried?

Thanks for all your helps and knowledge. It'd probably take me quite a while to dive though all the information.

The downboy would enable the use of 2 RCR123, 2 CR123 and possibly 1 17670 depending on the Vf of the star you use.

As for the wiring process, I have never wired a downboy before so maybe someone else would chip in.

Again, I have never owned a Nuwai 301x-3 so you may need someone else to confirm if the 2-stage is the result of the circuitry, tailcap or something else altogether.

Have fun modding!

I found DFiorentino's led measurements and I've quite impressed with the SX0H.

Yeah and not forgetting it costs almost half of the premium lux 3's around. Decisions, decisions...

I guess I can just buy the parts and try to fit them all together.

I assume it'd fit in the following order,
1. lux star (wired to downboy)
2. heatsink
3. downboy
4. battery

Hopefully all the stock parts, like the heatsink, will still work. If not, I can always buy more parts to get it to work. I can certainly see how this could get expensive.

Yeah but it will be fun... Enjoy yourself!