Whats interesting about that photo, it is in fact a P1 head, and the driver PCB seems very similar to the L2P's. The primary way to differentiate between L1 and L2 boards was that long crooked trace that follows the center battery (+) contact pad. L2s had it, L1s didnt. I'm thrilled with an SX0H Lux I in mine. Radio Shack butane cordless soldering iron to the rescue again, took some serious heat to loosen the threadlocker. Drilling the holes may not be necessary if you are really lucky and have almost no threadlocker, but they help a lot getting good leverage for removing the LE. I use snap ring pliers (automotive supply store or hardware store) with great results. Drilling the holes allows one to place the tips of the pliers deep into the body of the LE, requiring MUCH less effort to turn, and consequently virtually no risk of damage AFTER the holes are CAREFULLY extended. The reflector is threaded into the head as well, and has 2 divot holes on either side of the opening to again employ your nifty snap ring pliers. Needle nose work in a pinch, BUT snap ring pliers can be set to provide constant inward (reversible) or outward lateral force on the tips. Constant out makes the whole thing a breeze,the pliers maintain their grip on the 2 turning holes by virtue of their own spring, so all you have to exert is a small amount of force in twisting, NOTsimultaneously forcing the jaws of a needle nose to stay open and twist, which usually meters too much torque to the poor LE.
Aaaah all in the quest for a few more little lumens. We really must be nuts! Modding lights can be challenging and fun, but I cant help but think sometimes these projects are like rejects from a Home Improvement episode. Somewhere with the garage door opener electric motor modded to fit the electric can opener in the kitchen. Come to think of it... I wonder if Tim Allen has EVER heard of CPF or perhaps has even lurked for awhile.
