U2 tailcap switch lubricant

Hello fellow U2 Owners,
The following is only to try on U2 tailcaps that have clickie problems!!! I just wanted to pass on the information and there is no gaurantee it will work.
I just bought my U2 and everything worked perfectly!!!!!, but out of curiousity I tried to lubricate my tailcap switch with some silicone grease to prevent future jamming and it started jamming up.
I then sprayed Caig Cailube MCL to flush out the silicone grease (Keep in mind this is all done without disassembling the tailcap), and let the tailcap dry out over night and it works perfectly again. You propably will have to work the switch in and out a few times to get it moving smoothly.
Caig Cailube MCL is designed for plastic moving parts, but be careful you need to get the excess Cailube out and let it dry out overnight, or it will jam up in between if excess is not dried out.

this brings up a great question.


Does anyone know the real reason the clickies keep dying? There has to be a casue and effect seeing as so many are affected.

Reasons that the newer-generation (z5*) sf clickies fail (at least some of several reasons):

#1: assembly: no lube
#2: construction: no tolerance for wear (wear comming from #1)
#3: organisational: it seems three years are not enough to fix the constructional flaws of something as primitive as those switches. (or they are just selling old-stock switches with brand new lights)

There are plenty of 'hints' how to 'fix' those switches, but all are just temporary workarounds (adding shims, stretching springs, etc.) without really understanding what goes wrong, that make things worse in the end but dont contribute to a reliable switch.

Update and reason...My tailcap has been working even better and smoother since I did spray the Caig Cailube MCL, and working with mechanical things all my life it would not hurt to spray/lubricate the U2 tailcap once in awhile since it is a moving mechanical part just like parts in your car that needs lubrication. If you are smart you will learn to maintain your high quality products you own....example: flashlights, cars, etc.

Yes I realize that the tailcap should not fail, but lets work together and make it happen!!!!!

BBL said:

Reasons that the newer-generation (z5*) sf clickies fail (at least some of several reasons):

#1: assembly: no lube
#2: construction: no tolerance for wear (wear comming from #1)
#3: organisational: it seems three years are not enough to fix the constructional flaws of something as primitive as those switches. (or they are just selling old-stock switches with brand new lights)

There are plenty of 'hints' how to 'fix' those switches, but all are just temporary workarounds (adding shims, stretching springs, etc.) without really understanding what goes wrong, that make things worse in the end but dont contribute to a reliable switch.

Click to expand...

The difference between stock and replacement U2 tailcap is the tick grease in the small metal tube inside the tailcap.

Most of stock U2 tailcap was glued, and can not be removed to grease. However, there is a trick. I mixed fairly tick grease – nyogel 779 with high quality solvent – Philips degreaser cleaner to make it temporary liquid. Then use a needle from inkjet refill kit to inject a small amount (only 2-3 drops) thru the small open area near the battery spring. Liquid Nyogel will find its way to the small metal tube. Wait fro 10 minutes until solvent evaporate.

This is proven technique, I managed to get all jammed tailcaps back to work.