100 hour cost

abvidledUK

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One factor to be taken into account when buying a torch, is the running cost.

Obviously mostly talking batteries here.

Purchase price plus running costs for 100 hours gives a good comparison indicator.

So, cost of a set of batteries, actual number for each torch, divided by RT gives cost / hour.

Multiply by 100, and add to purchase price gives you the 100 hour total cost.

(Not applicable for nimh use of course, unless you want to factor in PP£ of nimh batteries)

My figures, using Duracell alkalines, (@ 35p each) GBP's £££:

100 hour costs.
Fenix L1P £35.56........UFire 602 £46.47
Fenix L2P £46.25........UFire 601 £38.76

SMJLED £10.55
Dorcy 3AAA £54.96
MXDL 3AAA £51.00


etc......

Interesting that the L1P costs less than the UF602, and the L2P costs more than the UF 601 over 100 hours, by a similar factor, using alkalines !!

I didn't do RT's for Lithiums, but you get the gist.

No doubt someone could do similar calculations, using other RT graphs available on CPF, eg Chevrofreaks, for different types of batteries, and their respective RT's, specifically Lithiums.

Similarly, there has to be a crossover point (in hours) when one particular torch costs you are comparing equals the total costs of the other torch.
ie Cheaper torch but higher running costs..



Here you see the L1P become cheaper than the 602 at around 50 hours, whilst the L2P does not catch up with the 601, within 100 hours.

Other factor, the L1P is approx twice as bright as the 602, (one whole EV stop) (5,000 lux-10,000 lux) whereas the L2P is slightly less brighter than the 601, based on my own measurements.

Of course different factors come into play using nimh's.

You can pay more, up to 75p per battery in UK, obviously the costlier the battery, the costlier the 100 hour figure, and the sooner the dearer torch with longer RT's overtakes the cheaper torch, in terms of overall costs.

This occurs at approx 30 hours for the L1P 602 combination, and at approx 100 hours for the L2P 601 combination.

For Lithiums, which I suspect many CPF'ers use, the crossover point is probably less than 15 hours for the L1P 602 combination.
 
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nerdgineer

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abvidledUK said:
...the L1P is approx twice as bright as the 602...
When I measured my 602A's, I initially found their total output (not central hot spot brightness - total output as measured by putting the light hard against my meter's cell) to be less than my L1Ps'. However, by adjusting them, I was able to boost the 602As' output to be almost equal to my L1P's (within about 10% as eyeballed off my analog meter) - this all using the same nimh battery.

You may not get the quite the same result - you may have a better L1P or worser 602A's than I do - but I think you'll find tightening the retaining rings and grinding a little off the head/tail bodies will boost your output measurably.

Just my 2 cents...
 

Norm

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Handlobraesing said:
gotta start thinking about grams/minute of gasoline consumption while idling at drive-thru man!

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

My thoughts exactly, I'm sure the people here don't worry about fuel comsumption all they want is Watts and lots of em'.
 

abvidledUK

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Cheap lights, like cheap cars, can be a false economy.

The number of posts wondering about whether to buy $10 or less torch or accessory shows cost to be a factor for some.

Torches can be / are a hobby, as is theory behind it.

As shown by interest in RT graphs.
 
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Write a realistic conditions and its not a simple math.

Find the 100 hour operating cost and the cost per lumen-hour. State the percent of original output when batteries are considered no good.
∫(curve eq,t,0,100) ≠ lumens*t unless the lamp module holds absolutely steady output over 100 hours.

If a set of batteries won't last the entire 100 hours w/o going below the specified percent of original output,
Stop integrating when output reaches that level. Extrapolate by copying over the curve until you reach 100 hours.

So, whatever gives the best lumen-hour per $1 on the condition that batteries are changed when output drops to n% over a 100 hour period (including purchase cost of light) is the most economical.
 
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abvidledUK

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Handlobraesing said:
∫(curveeq,t,0,100)≠lumens*tunlessthelampmoduleholdsabsolutelysteadyoutputover100hours.Ifasetofbatterieswon'tlasttheentire100hoursw/ogoingbelowthespecifiedpercentoforiginaloutput,Stopintegratingwhenoutputreachesthatlevel.Extrapolatebycopyingoverthecurveuntilyoureach100hours.
So,whatevergivesthebestlumen-hourper$1ontheconditionthatbatteriesarechangedwhenoutputdropston%overa100hourperiod(includingpurchasecostoflight)isthemosteconomical.


:huh2:


Go on then, you do it !!!

You seem to have totally misread or misunderstood the original post.

It's not for one set of batteries over 100 hours !! :banghead:

etc, etc, etc, !!!
 
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abvidledUK said:
:huh2:


Go on then, you do it !!!

You seem to have totally misread or misunderstood the original post.

It's not for one set of batteries over 100 hours !! :banghead:

etc, etc, etc, !!!


I didn't say "one set". I said replace batteries if output drops past your specified point, replace batteries and add the cost of new set of batteries.
 

Ty_Bower

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abvidledUK said:
Other factor, the L1P is approx twice as bright as the 602, (one whole EV stop) (5,000 lux-10,000 lux) whereas the L2P is slightly less brighter than the 601, based on my own measurements...
So, if the L1P is approximately twice as bright as the 602, then it would "cost" you twice as much as you calculate if you want to keep the brightness on the same playing level. Or, as Handlobraesing says:
Handlobraesing said:
Find the 100 hour operating cost and the cost per lumen-hour...
You really need to work out a 100 hour operating cost, normalized for total lumen output. Or normalized for total lux throw. Whichever is most important to you.

It isn't easy comparing apples to oranges, but at least you're on the right track. How do the incandescents stack up?
 

enLIGHTenment

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All you're doing here is going to a little mathematical trouble to find the dimmest light with the lowest sticker price. You have to correct for overall output to get useful results.
 

BentHeadTX

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I'll give it a shot "real world" :)

Minimag with 500mA current regulated R2H Luxeon sandwich, glass lens, tail clickie and reflector ($90)
Four Powerex 2200mAH NiMH AA cells ($10)
Six Rayovac AA alkaline cells ($2)

Total battery changes Sept 04 to Jan 05 48 changes
Total alkaline battery changes Sept 04 to Jan 05 3 changes

Operating time on NiMH 2 hours and 15 minutes
Operating time on Rayovac alkaline AA cells 1 hour 20 minutes

Total operating time for all batteries 112 hours
Total cost for flashlight/batteries $102
Operating cost is $0.91 for 112 hours or $1 per hour for the first 100 hours

Estimated actual lumens from modded minimag (based on 34 lumen output of Peak Caribbean) 38 lumens

Cost per lumen per hour is 2.4 cents per lumen per hour over 112 hours

The problem with the calculations is when applied to my Fire~Fly III. The $154 purchase includes two Nano chargers and two RCR123 batteries. It will be next to impossible to figure out runtime since I have multiple levels to play with. Yes, it puts out 70 to 75 lumens in burst mode but I won't count the seconds I use that mode and add them together. Keeping track of the runtime would be hard on the cell but then calculating cost per lumen per hour would melt my brain.

I just do a quick calculation when reading flashlight reviews. Take the runtime chart and multiply the runtime by cost of cells. Then for amusement, you can also calculate lumens (in a way) and perform the lumen costs. Another good reason to read the review sites
 
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