Motorcycle Brake help??

PlayboyJoeShmoe

Flashaholic
Joined
Sep 4, 2002
Messages
11,041
Location
Shepherd, TX (where dat?)
We have a 1992 Gold Wing Interstate...

It has a combined rear wheel brake along with one front wheel brake. The other front disk works by the right front lever.

The front only works fine. The combined rear peddle won't pressure up. After a MAJOR PITA, it has new guts in the rear cylinder. The old guts don't look bad.

I can get it to take fluid from the remote master cylinder by using my finger with the banjo bolt out. I can get it to gush fluid pretty seriously.

But with the banjo bolt in, all I can get to happen is fluid level dropping with peddle up and going back to the master cylinder with peddle down.

Using tubing, I got a column of fluid standing over each bleeder. With the bleeder open, the fluid level in the tube goes up about an inch with peddle down, then right back down an inch with peddle up. If I leave the bleeder open with peddle down, the level in the tube slowly drops...

I'm at the end of my rope!

I've helped my buddy do brakes (front) on his race bikes. They can be persnickety to say the least, but we always win.

Anyone???
 

smokinbasser

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
1,193
Location
East Texas
I believe you have a proportioning valve sticking open and allowing the fluid to bypass. The valve is there to reduce the pressure to the front caliper to keep the tail end on the pavement under hard braking when using only the brake pedal
 

PlayboyJoeShmoe

Flashaholic
Joined
Sep 4, 2002
Messages
11,041
Location
Shepherd, TX (where dat?)
There is a second "cylinder" looking device next to the master cylinder. The banjo bolt goes into that, and the other brake line screws into the banjo bolt.

It seems to always trade brake fluid between the cylinder and remote reservior only.

But then just when you think it's safe... it will also trade with either wheel cylinder with the bleeder open.

It's just nuts! :pullhair: :banghead:
 
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