Modding Fenix L1T LED & ranks...

Been away for a while form this board and coming back has been a blast. There's been an explosion of lights beyond what I can imagine.

Anyways, a couple of questions:
1. Is the L1T current or voltage regulated?

2. To replace the LED, would it be better to us a T rank with H Vf or U rank with J Vf? (I'm assuming, rightly or wrongly that the luxeons may not be the highest grade currently available.)

3. I assume that the LED is pretty easily user replaceable? I'll have to do a more complete search on CPF but thought I'd ask here for a quick yes or no.

Thanks!
Mo

well, i believe that at a given current the U bin will generally be brighter than the T but this is not always the case. a great T will outshine an average U so lux lottery still applies. the H and J will determine the runtime you'll get with an H lasting longer than a J. can't help you with the rest but i'm curious to see what kind of replies you get there.

3. The board is potted so you will need some muscle and tools to open it up, A very good tutorial is right here.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=113371

AlexGT

I'd go with the lower vF H. T bins are pretty good and your not going to notice a big difference going to a U. The H will help with runtime or brigthness if the driver is voltage boost only.

Thank you all! As always, incredible community.

One more question if I may. Not knowing how the regulation work in the L1T, should I go for the R**H or T**H?

Blessings,
Mo

Go for the T bin! Here is a link explaining the bin coding and tints

http://home.comcast.net/~theledguy/bin_codes/

AlexGT

AlexGt,

THANKS for suggeting TXXH over the U**J.

However, upon further reading, the regulation covers 1.2 to 4 volts. I'm assuming that with with Li-Ion, this would simply allow the full voltage current to get through.

if so, for the Luxeon to survive, it would need to be a T**J ranked. If we plan to also use Li-Ion, would it not be better to have a U**J?

Curious if you know for sure either way about the converter.

Thanks,
Mo