Shotgun recoil w/xenon bulbs?

Hi guys. Im new. I want a dependable and effective light for my mossberg 12 gauge that is within my budget. I imagine I wont get super blinding light for under $50 but I want something that can handle recoil and also be very distracting.

Thinking of a Surefire G2 for $36 w/ 60 lumens
or
Inova T-series (LED) 2watt for $45 w/ 40 lumens

Can a Surefire G2 handle the recoil of a 12g? I dont want to be replacing $25 heads...???

Or, is it better to go with an LED for a shotgun?

Thanks a ton!

http://www.surefire.com/maxexp/main/co_disp/displ/carfnbr/92/sesent/00 not exactly what your asking for but this may help, also please look here , this is a very nice light http://night-ops.com/Gladius-6V-LED.html

bwsmdm said:

Hi guys. Im new. I want a dependable and effective light for my mossberg 12 gauge that is within my budget. I imagine I wont get super blinding light for under $50 but I want something that can handle recoil and also be very distracting.

Thinking of a Surefire G2 for $36 w/ 60 lumens
or
Inova T-series (LED) 2watt for $45 w/ 40 lumens

Can a Surefire G2 handle the recoil of a 12g? I dont want to be replacing $25 heads...???

Or, is it better to go with an LED for a shotgun?

Thanks a ton!

Click to expand...

Welcome to CPF!

I guess it all depends on how you'll be using your shotgun and what you'll be using it for.

For example, if it's your "home defense" firearm that sits around for months unused - and you only need to light up a target before deciding whether or not to fire then what does it matter if the light dies as a result of the recoil? It has done it's job. You've save your money and since the shotgun and light combination has just saved your life what's the big deal with replacing the bulb?
When you take the firearm to the range you can remove the light.

However, if you need to use the light and the shotgun on a far more regular basis you'll need a light that is durable and robust for a life on an active firearm. Additionally, because you're using it far more you'll want ergonomic and reliable switching.

SureFire's shotgun forend WeaponLights are designed for life on active firearms - both in use and also in training. The integrated switching in the forend, the shock isolated lamp assembly, the shock isolated battery sticks - all these features make a WeaponLight that is durable, robust, reliable and fit for purpose on a LEO/Military firearm.
The model 623FA can be purchased used - I've seen prices £150-$200.

I take the perspective that you should identify the application(s), determine the requirements and match those against known products. If the product selected is more than your budget then you have a choice - either save up or purchase a cheaper product and hope for the best.

I think it would be advisable to get a model with the shock-isolated head.

I've got an Inova T3 mounted on the forend of my FN Police Shotgun and have put about 300 rounds of birdshot, 50 rounds of buckshot and a handfull of slugs through the gun with no ill effects on the flashlight other than it working loose on the mount before I lok-Tite'ed it.

I would go with the T3 over the T2. I had originally put my T2 on the gun, but it wasn't bright enough to be blinding at night. Another benefit of the T3 is that the brighter light will bounce off interioir walls a little more and help light up more of the area.

-Teuf

Your should try one of this...



Yes, I know that is just an airsoft replica, but it is being used with G36E assault rifles.

Regards

Thanks alot guys for all your imput. Although a shock-absorbant head would be realy nice it is too much money.

Size 15: I see your point. However, if I fire a shot at some intruder in the dark and miss and the gas bulb reaks then Im SOL if I want to fire more shots.

I think my best bang for the buck right now is the T3 with 80 lumens for only $55. Thanks for the tip LawHund. Im glad you had experiance with the LEDs.

thanks again everyone.

What sort of mount will you use?

I've read that Size 15s say he doesn't own a gun, but in this case, I think his advice is logical.

Situations requiring an armed citizen to fire followup shots in deep darkness where you can't see the outline of a person can't be frequent.

We had a situation somewhat like this two years ago. Two LEOs in an unlighted area lit up a bad guy armed with a rifle. One LEO fired a few shots from his handgun, then they went dark to wait for help. Continuing to hunt the threat with lights after that likely would have gotten them killed.

Obviously, shock isolation doesn't hurt. For what it's worth, a Strion and a Surefire 6P duct taped to the stock of a .308 semi auto rifle will handle that much recoil with multiple shots. I just learned this two nights ago.

That's right - I don't own any firearms, nor do I have any real experience of them or using them etc so I don't post about firearms from that perspective but rather concentrate on the lights which is what I'm interested in.

Al

Increase your budget by 20$ and you open up dozens more options, but if not here's my advice.

In my opinion, the T-Series lights make poor shotgun lights. The beam is very context exclusive and gave me very bad tunnel vision when I was under stress to make a shot during competitions at night.

Now, your 50$ budget greatly, greatly limits your options but you do have a few:

1.) Pentagonlight X2: The black anodized model is right around 45-50$ and is completely shock isolated and features battery retention as well as an honest 70 lumens. I have @700 rounds of 7.62x39 through mine mounted on an AMD65 kit gun. This is the cheapest shock isolated stock light you can buy, and it works well.

2.) Nuwai X-3. Don't judge this light based on it's price point of <40$. It is as bright or brighter than most of the major "tactical" 3 Watt lights (i.e. Pelican M6 3Watt, Pentagonlight L2, etc.) and so far has proved to be worthy of mounting on my Mossberg.

3.)Surefire G2 + Z32 Shock Isolated bezel. This combo will come out @60 bucks but it is the cheapest shock-isolated Surefire set-up you can get.

4.) Maglite 2C mod. This actually works, all you need is a 6-cell maglite bulb, some radiator hose tubing from Autozone and 3 CR123 batteries. Total cost is less than 40$ and it is as bright as a Surefire M3. If you want to go this route I can give you the details in another post. I have used this set-up duct-taped to a rickety old remington pump while hog-hunting with slugs a few months back. It was cheap and ugly but it worked fine for a few dozen rounds.



Now, you might be able to get away with using a non-shock isolated bulb. I have seen G2s and 6Ps handle quite a few rounds before blowing but I have also seen quite a few first round failures on non-shock isolated lights. If you really plan to use this light for defense you need to realize that you are putting your life on the line by trying to take the cheap route. One round and then darkness may sound fine but it is going to be very very scary if your one shot misses or fails to scare away whoever you are shooting at.

Also, remember that the actual LED itself may be shock-proof but the rest of light might not. I have blown 2 different "tactical" LEDs that were mounted on firearms and billed as the end-all-be-all in shock isolation.

P.S. PM sent with an offer for the original poster.

I have experience shooting at night with tactical lights, and I can tell you that you have to practice using a weapon mounted light. You need a light that is either shock isolated or not effected by weapon recoil (LED's).

Where and how you mount the light is very important. You need to be able to activate the light without losing a proper grip on the firearm. Get some training so you can learn how to use your firearm and light competently.

When you are talking about life saving equipment like parachutes, life vests, climbing gear and defensive firearms, you get what you pay for. What is your life worth?

Surefire 6P with a KL3 head using this mount and this switch

Link

Link


Buy all of it from Calvin at Brightflashlights.com

Phone # 352 732 2156

Call him and ask questions, he knows his lights!!

This is actually the setup im going to use on my HD Remington 870 12 ga.

What about a piece of foam rubber like neoprene between the body of the flashlight and the shotgun? Would this soak up the recoil effectively? This way, the entire flashlight is protected and not just one part.

Spoonrobot makes a really good point about narrow beam flashlights. For the armed citizen in a defensive situation, the range to the threat will be measured in feet, probably single digits. At close range, the beam cannot be excessively tight or you won't be able to see the whole person and what is around them. It will take only a slight movement to the side for them to escape a narrow beam and attack.

This is something that I've been struggling with off and on, and I credit Size15's with giving me a LOT of information about Surefire weaponlights. And I shoot, too! One of the best things he showed me was that the standard Surefire light and the weaponlight bodies differ, among other things, with a machined shoulder inside the weaponlight body that keeps the batteries from impacting the rear of the lamp during recoil.

Here's a good thread where we kicked this around a bit before:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=956946

In the thread, Sunspot has an awesome setup on his 590, and there's a clamp at the end of the thread that someone bought from Brownell's. That might be what you're looking for.

Bear in mind that everything you hang on your weapon affects its balance. If you can get hits, fine. But if it becomes an anchor with sidesaddles and slings and lights and mag tubes and it's a pain in the butt and hangs up on stuff left and right, re-think your layout.

Lemme just say that you see a lof of guys who spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on the gun and try to stuff it in a $10 holster. Budget carefully and save up and get accessories you can depend on. If that light or that mount you want is 50 or 100 dollars above your budget, brown bag your lunch for awhile, scour the B/S/T forums, and get the best you can afford at the best price you can find. Don't settle on junk just so you can say you have a light on your gun. You only need to buy quality once!

I'd say that if the situation is potentially important enough to warrant a light to save one's life, then that light had better be a dependable one!

I'd suggest a dedicated weapon light, probably with an intense spill for close quarters target identification.

I'm going to head down to the range in a few weeks to practice my surefire/rogers techniques while live firing our 9mm and .45 . Though I'm competent without a light I want to be sure I know how to adjust my grip and sighting before I run into a situation that requires such knowledge.

Chronos said:

I'm going to head down to the range in a few weeks to practice my surefire/rogers techniques while live firing our 9mm and .45 . Though I'm competent without a light I want to be sure I know how to adjust my grip and sighting before I run into a situation that requires such knowledge.

Click to expand...

ABSOLUTELY! I brought my SF combatlight body lights with me to the range last time. You REALLY need to try it out and get really comfortable with it before you rely on it. I highly recommend practicing with the gun in one hand and the light in the other, hands not connected. The two-hand Surefire/Rogers is cool until you need to run around and open doors, reload, clear malfunctions. Trying to re-establish that two-hand grip at speed and index light and gun is a bit disconcerting. Not saying it's not a good technique, just establish your base-line strong-hand only skills and wring them out as your "seat-belt" skill set, then work up from there.

Another suggestion - Streamlight TL-3 for $50 and get the shockproof lamp assembly for $15. The shockproof TL-3 is about $80+, so for $65, you get an equivalent light that's made for firearms mounting. And the TL-3 is BRIGHT with plenty of spill so you can see all of your target.