my own M6-R pack

We all know about js's excellent and high quality rechargeable pack for the SureFire M6, better known as the M6-R .

Jim recently sold some M6-R LVR3I PWM regulators , and you probably have seen CPF's member "TheSteve" own vesion here .

Although my version is not as good/clean as either Jim or TheSteve, here is my own version for your "enjoyment"

I must point out that I am not fully done, as I need to add the thicker heat-shrink, plus I want to make the charge port just as TheSteve did on his own version :rock:

I of course started by looking/reviewing carefuly all documentation and by taking some approx. measurements of the MB-20 battery pack as a guideline.





Using this information I soldered the FET to the LVR board:



I then used my mini lathe and some delrin to make some new ends for the pack, using the measurements I took earlier:



I used some copper nuts to which I soldered wires to create the new contacts for the bulb (which are not the same as the battery):





I used my demel to create some channels for the wires so that the new top/bottom plates would fit flush with the cell pack:





I then applied a thick layer of epoxy to the side facing the batteries to prevent any shorts, and covered them with insulating tape:





Here is everything prior to assembly:



I reviewed once more the wiring instructions using the excellent documentation that Willie Hunt provides on his LVR web site . Third picture shows the exact configuration used here:








I then soldered the LVR board to the battery pack:



and then soldered the new insulated delrin ends, which I hot-glued to the battery pack:







Here is the almost finished pack:







and to "prove" that it actually works, here is a very underexposed shot against the wall - looks awesome in real life



Thanks Jim and TheSteve for showing enough pictures to help me get my own M6-R pack operational :bow:

Will

Awesome!

I knew others could use the ideas already posted and then add to it with their own thoughts, experience and equipment.

If you want to use the same connector for charging that I did then grab a male and female JST type connector - should be easy to find at a good hobbystore or at several of the online battery stores.
I drilled a small hole and then used a file to enlarge it to the proper rectangle. If I did it again I'd use the CNC with a 1/16th bit and then square the edges to make the charge jack hole.

Very nice !!!:rock:

very impressed!!!

Awesome work!!!

Thank you guys

By the way, I wonder why no-one has asked me yet about the calculations for R4 :huh2:

Anyone care to guess? :naughty:

Will

awsume!~ work

until saphion li-ion technology is made available to us non-oem's. high current multi-cell packs are safer with NMH VS li-ion.

I tested the pack here with several bulbs. I got some cool scope shots as well

Will

What kind of runtime are you getting on the MN21 and MN20 bulbs?

Curtis

Very nice work. I am always impressed with that pack build.

cue003 said:

What kind of runtime are you getting on the MN21 and MN20 bulbs?
Curtis

Click to expand...

and MN15 ?

and each with lumensoutput (or comparison-trow-shots):goodjob:

albino said:

and MN15 ?

and each with lumensoutput (or comparison-trow-shots):goodjob:

Click to expand...

Yes, the MN15 runs "well", but as expected is a little bit yellow, not as nice/white as the MN21/MN16

As to comparison shots, not going to happen in the near term. Way too much work chaning bulbs and re-setting up, since I only have one M6 here with me (my second one is loaded to AWR for the development of his regulated LiIon packs).

Will

TheSteve said:

Awesome!

I knew others could use the ideas already posted and then add to it with their own thoughts, experience and equipment.

If you want to use the same connector for charging that I did then grab a male and female JST type connector - should be easy to find at a good hobbystore or at several of the online battery stores.
I drilled a small hole and then used a file to enlarge it to the proper rectangle. If I did it again I'd use the CNC with a 1/16th bit and then square the edges to make the charge jack hole.

Click to expand...

Finally got the connector - this is certainly a lot more reliable, and those connectors are keyed so they only go together the "right" way with the correct polarity







Thanks much!

Will

Very nice will! I like the scope shots too! :thumbsup:

Thanks Freddy

The scope shots have another use ... a reference point for another change ... :naughty:

Will

Wow! Very nice...:twothumbs

Great photos Will...

I really need to learn about the electronics end, of this stuff. :thinking: :thinking: :thinking:

TB

TranquillityBase said:

Wow! Very nice...:twothumbs

Great photos Will...

I really need to learn about the electronics end, of this stuff. :thinking: :thinking: :thinking:

TB

Click to expand...

And I am trying to learn to do more mechanical/machining stuff

Will

wquiles,

Sorry I haven't posted here until now.

First of all, NICE WORK! I know just how much of a challenge it is dealing with all the fit issues and with the endcap problem and all that. Congratulaions!

Second of all, the actual end-to-end soldered, kapton wrapped 9 cell pack is one you got from me, right?

js said:

wquiles,

Sorry I haven't posted here until now.

First of all, NICE WORK! I know just how much of a challenge it is dealing with all the fit issues and with the endcap problem and all that. Congratulaions!

Second of all, the actual end-to-end soldered, kapton wrapped 9 cell pack is one you got from me, right?

Click to expand...

Thanks

Yes, it was the one I got from you - still working great after at least 10 charging cycles :rock:

Will

Nice Job! I'm inspired.