Tater Rocket
Enlightened
Spud\'s MR16 mag 4D conversion
Here is a business end view of the light.
Here you can see a copper wire soldered to one pin running to the nipple on the PR base. The other pin is a huge blob of solder (I had previously broken the pin, so I tried to heat it as much as possible and add a TON of solder to hold the pin in place) that is also soldered to the pr base.
Another closeup of the bulb/base.
Here are my two 6AA battery holders end to end. I ran a copper wire (fairly thick, the only other wire I had was phone wire) in the plus hole of one (next pic), bent it over, then ran it through the minus hole (almost sounds naughty) of the other and folded over the spring. Then I notched out the plastic, ran a plus wire to one end and soldered it to a copper plate, then ran a negative to the other plate. I am not sure if my polarity is correct, but my incandescent bulb doesn't care.
Here is how I made connection (as it is rather hard to solder to aluminum).
Insert this end into the mag first so it can make contact where the nipple normally makes contact. I used duct tape over the ends I put the plates on covering the alumium pieces. Then the copper plate went over that and I soldered to it. The heat of soldering melted the plastic and the tape and that is what keeps the plates in place.
And finally, here is the result. Note that this is taken in a SOMEWHAT shaded part of a flourescent lit room. The Tec40 is only a very little bit whiter than the mag. The Tec40 hotspot is about as bright as the mag's outter hotspot. The mag however, has a hotspot that encompasses about 6-8 times the area
So that is how you do it. I predicted I would find out how to make the batt holders work in 15 minutes, it took me a bit longer as I could not find my cutting disks to cut my copper pipe. I used a hacksaw to cut a short section off, then cut that lengthwise (rather hard to do with a one inch or shorter section of pipe).
Spud
Here is a business end view of the light.
Here you can see a copper wire soldered to one pin running to the nipple on the PR base. The other pin is a huge blob of solder (I had previously broken the pin, so I tried to heat it as much as possible and add a TON of solder to hold the pin in place) that is also soldered to the pr base.
Another closeup of the bulb/base.
Here are my two 6AA battery holders end to end. I ran a copper wire (fairly thick, the only other wire I had was phone wire) in the plus hole of one (next pic), bent it over, then ran it through the minus hole (almost sounds naughty) of the other and folded over the spring. Then I notched out the plastic, ran a plus wire to one end and soldered it to a copper plate, then ran a negative to the other plate. I am not sure if my polarity is correct, but my incandescent bulb doesn't care.
Here is how I made connection (as it is rather hard to solder to aluminum).
Insert this end into the mag first so it can make contact where the nipple normally makes contact. I used duct tape over the ends I put the plates on covering the alumium pieces. Then the copper plate went over that and I soldered to it. The heat of soldering melted the plastic and the tape and that is what keeps the plates in place.
And finally, here is the result. Note that this is taken in a SOMEWHAT shaded part of a flourescent lit room. The Tec40 is only a very little bit whiter than the mag. The Tec40 hotspot is about as bright as the mag's outter hotspot. The mag however, has a hotspot that encompasses about 6-8 times the area
So that is how you do it. I predicted I would find out how to make the batt holders work in 15 minutes, it took me a bit longer as I could not find my cutting disks to cut my copper pipe. I used a hacksaw to cut a short section off, then cut that lengthwise (rather hard to do with a one inch or shorter section of pipe).
Spud
