Two U2's, tint observations...Is warmer tint really that bad?

Tonight I went out in my woods and compared the tints of two U2's , one which was very cool and white(#1) , the other was yellow/green(#2). First off, prior to getting the 2nd U2(1) my "old" U2 (2) seemed very bright and white until set to the 3 level and below which then appeared greenish. Once I had the new light, it was quite obvious that it was MUCH whiter than my old one but didn't seem as bright.It , however, remained white as the levels were reduced. On white wall hunting both displayed an annoying donut.

Here are my (novice)observations when using the light in the woods:
(1): the light would not throw as far as (2) and the corona created a haze or misty effect. It also appeared to not show as true a color as (2). (2) also displayed a better "shadow" effect or more 3D appearance on the trees that were illuminated. They just seemed more life-like and natural. (1)'s beam looked diffused and "cloudy".

Having used both U2's inside I would have first chosen (1) due to its whiteness, however after comparing the beams qualities outside in nature, I would choose (2). I guess since (2) had a more yellow tint, it compared more to the qualities of an incadescent light.

In any case, if iIhad to choose just one of these U2's for overall performance, it would have to be my older yellow tinted one.

This is just my untrained, inexperienced, laymans opinion in real world usage.

Has anyone else experienced these differences in tints on light performance and how ones eyes perceives them? Hope my ramble didn't bore you Dave

Thanks for sharing your experience. I've got a pretty white U2. I also have the G&P LED and a bunch of other LED's and Xenons, and my favorite light for night use while in my convertible (shining out in trails, trees) is still my stock G2. Even though I prefer the white LED light for street walks, the yellowish tint seems to make things a bit clearer for distance viewing, especially through grass, brush and trees. In line with what you found, I think...

I agree, I prefer warmer tints on all of my LED's. I find that they do better outdoors as well.

the yellowish tint seems to make things a bit clearer for distance viewing, especially through grass, brush and trees. In line with what you found, I think...[/QUOTE]

Hi Tremendo: Yes ,that was my conclusion. Thanks for you input. Obviously, one needs to pick out a light for their specific needs. I am like everything else trying to find the elusive "do it all light" !
Have a nice evening!

Pictures please

I have also found that warmer tinted LEDs render colors better than pure white/bluish. As you said, they're closer to incandescent, which renders colors very well.

Manzerick said:

Pictures please

Click to expand...

Getting ready to hit the rack but I'll try to get some tomorrow

Will be my first try at beam shots but I'll try!

Chris201W said:

I have also found that warmer tinted LEDs render colors better than pure white/bluish. As you said, they're closer to incandescent, which renders colors very well.

Click to expand...

I am also wondering if the yellow tint made the beam look brighter?? I do know that it lit up the periphery more . Both my sons agreed with my observations. BTW: the old light was sent back twice to Surefire due to a HORRIBLE donut...the one now is barely acceptable but unnoticeable outside.

My P1 had the same white tint as the new one although less bright.

Its a pretty common observation that warmer/greener Luxeon tints have a more pleasing effect outside, while whiter/bluer tints seem nicer indooors. I imagine it has a lot to do with the predominant colors in each venue.


I had an extremely bright and green U2, but ultimately couldn't get over the color and Surefire "fixed" it for me with a whiter but less bright U2. I definitely prefer the whiter tint overall.

If you measured the colour temperature of the two lights I bet you'd find that the yellow light was actually closer to daylight (sunlight) colour. The whites are usually really blue--just like computer monitors! And they don't throw as well or render colours accurately.
Greg

Tint is a curious thing. None of my Luxeon lights are what I'd truly call "white". I've had a few that I thought were white. Inevitably, I end up comparing them to another light, only to find out that both have some weird tint.

My first U2 was only ever so slightly to the cool blue side of white. I thought it looked screaming bright, especially outside. Too bad it had to get RMA'd for a bad switch and a nasty donut. Its replacement is quite a bit to the warm side. I'd almost say it's in V1 territory. It doesn't look as bright to the eye, but it measures a whole heck of a lot more lux on the lux meter. Go figure.

I've learned to love all my tints. I would go crazy otherwise.

And they don't throw as well or render colours accurately.
Greg[/QUOTE]

This is definitely the case with my old U2. I use my lights mostly outdoors in wooded areas. It is a little disconcerting though, when I use it indoors now especially after have used my P1 prior. I would prefer to see the colors more accurately.

I've learned to love all my tints. I would go crazy otherwise.[/QUOTE]


I agree! The best thing is to use only one light at a time and try to resist the urge to compare each one. Obviously, flashaholics become anal and too detail oriented

One of my favorite lights is my A2 but after having used so many other "white" LED's , the blue ringy tint dispalyed by my A2, bums me out. Why can't they put nicer LED's in that light??...e.g. Peaks snow whites.

I did a comparison of several of my throwy lights on the top of some far trees at the back of my yard. I found that the yellow/warmer tints look far better and gave real depth to the leaves such that I could distinguish different clumps of leaves where as the more white ones washed out that difference. Luckily, my thowiest LED, a LED Logoc Striker VG, has the very warm tint.

I also saw that my one green tinted Lux3, a Nuwai 301X-3 had about the same effect. And before I hated the distinct green tint and had bought a UWOK star for it since it has a SX1K in it now. I'm sure the U-bin and WO tint would still improve it for general use, but I find it fine now for outside use.

I think that since blue light is longer wavelenth, carries less energy, and therefore reflects more easily, it is deflected by dust and humidity in the air to scatter the beam, reducing throw. Real "fog" lights on a car are amber for that reason. Red-orange-amber-yellow are shorter wavelength and cut through fog better than regular halogen car headlights. Red is just too red to use for extended periods, so yellow and amber fog lights were more popular until fog lights became a status symbol or just for looks.

Colors of the rainbow in order they appear and in decreasing order of energy:
Red
Orange
Yellow
Green
Blue
Indigo
Violet

GregWormald said:

If you measured the colour temperature of the two lights I bet you'd find that the yellow light was actually closer to daylight (sunlight) colour. The whites are usually really blue--just like computer monitors! And they don't throw as well or render colours accurately.
Greg

Click to expand...

I was about to say the same thing! I bet the #1 light you said was much "whiter" was in fact not more white but more blue. Your computer monitor is a GREAT example of this! Look at the color settings of your monitor and see what color temp it is set at. Most monitors come from the factory set at 9300k which is bluish white. Try setting your monitor to 6500K for a truer white...

Also agree with Ty_Bower in that non of my LEDs are true white. They all have some sort of tint. My guess is that this is due to the very narrow spectrum that an LED outputs. This issue won't be truly fixed until broad/full spectrum LED's come out...

Flame suit on: I think far too many folks on here are white wall hunters and don't realize that warm tints are MUCH better in the real world than the ghostly bluish ones!

Blindasabat said:

I think that since blue light is longer wavelenth, carries less energy, and therefore reflects more easily, it is deflected by dust and humidity in the air to scatter the beam, reducing throw. Real "fog" lights on a car are amber for that reason.

Click to expand...

Also keep in mind the way that white is achieved. The die emits blue that excites the yellow phosphors. So even though we have a perception of white, you have a spectum with two distinct wavelengths. The greater the density of the phosphors the greater the yellow contribution

QUOTE
I think that since blue light is longer wavelenth, carries less energy, and therefore reflects more easily, it is deflected by dust and humidity in the air to scatter the beam, reducing throw.

Yep, this exactly what I saw by being hazy.

Thanks for your great description of what was happening.

Hmmm... except that it's the other way around:
http://imagers.gsfc.nasa.gov/ems/visible.html

Blue light is the shorter wavelength, and red is the longer wavelength.

It is true that the blue tends to scatter more in our atmosphere:
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/atmos/blusky.html

Ty_Bower said:

Hmmm... except that it's the other way around:
http://imagers.gsfc.nasa.gov/ems/visible.html

Blue light is the shorter wavelength, and red is the longer wavelength.

It is true that the blue tends to scatter more in our atmosphere:
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/atmos/blusky.html

Click to expand...

Hey, leave him alone.... he is Blindasabat

Luna said:

Hey, leave him alone.... he is Blindasabat

Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm only repeating what I read.
While I work on a sonar flashlight...

But really, pardon my inaccuracy. It's what Ty said. ..or NASA. The point of what has less energy and is more easily reflected was the point, but I wouldn't want to spread incorrect science.