Any surfers out there?

I had a chance to go surfing for the first time in a couple of years up at a place in ventura called mondos I think. I had forgotten how much fun it was.

Has any one else tried it or currently surf?

I did a little Longboarding with my uncles tanker back in High School But now mostly Body Surfing & Sponging 5-6 ft Shorebreaks at a place called Sandys on the island of Oahu

When younger, I did a lot of surfing in Peru. Mainly, Santa Maria and Mira Flores.

First time probably early '60's. By '64, it was my primary focus and remained most significant for 10 years through college (I picked my university because of great waves close by; Black's Beach - La Jolla) I have a couple boards and still play in Maui when the crowds are not rush hour.

I had a non surfer friend recommend a movie to me last year; Step into Liquid?

Great movie, IMHO and once you have experienced the stoke it remains with you.

The August issue of Vanity Fair has a steller article about surfing in the 1950's in California. Profiles many of the mainland beginnings and characters, including Miki Dora (the late), who my cousin introduced me to years ago. Also a lot of info on those old "Beach Blanket" movies and the real "Gidget" too.

Growing up on Balboa Island, CA - I spent most of my teenage years at the Wedge getting creamed. I still visit there when it's up.

cd-card-biz,

Some of us were at Stockton Ave. (Santa Cruz) one early AM as it was minus tide and we wanted to catch this perfect wave if there was a swell coming in. Not to be but who shows up but Mickey Dora (Da Cat) and Johnny Fain. They had likely driven all the way from So. Cal just on the chance!! That guy was REAL hollywood surfer!!

I grew up in Dana Point and got to watch the industry evolve and met and knew some of the names at the time. Hobie taught me how to spray paint. One of my house mates in La Jolla was a fellow UCSD student and surfer who got into shaping (We had a small surfboard factory in the garage of this giant house we lived in). His name is Rusty and he is famous now in his own right with a clothing line as well as surfboards.

Surfing is one sport or activity that I find I enjoy as a spectator as much as when a participant. I do prefer the latter though in most cases and conditions.

While many of the day turned on and dropped out, many others were up at the crack of dawn and paddling out before the first rays of light. I think I learned more about the big picture from surfing than anything else I have been involved in. For so many, surfing was not just a sport or hobby but an introduction to a life style.

Now, there are a lot more women who have taken to the call and what a feast to these eyes that can be!! Nature and woman in motion and harmony! :rock:

McGizmo said:

While many of the day turned on and dropped out

Click to expand...

Uh Oh...busted! I forgot about my surfboard in the garage (for about 10-years), grew my hair down to my ***, and headed for Haight-Ashbury. I'm back now.

I met Hobie a couple of times at his shop in Corona del Mar. He taught me how to give him my money! Anything with a Hobie logo on it back then was pure gold!

So, growing up in Dana Point, did you ever make the obligatory surf-runs down to Baja? I used to love to take my girlfriend du jour down there. Raul's, La Fonda, Half-Way House, and Newport for lobster. Surprisingly, I never got into any real trouble down there - even with the fireworks, booze and what not.

Yes, the female surfers and athletes are a spendid sight. My wife and I used to regularly bike ride from Balboa Island to the Huntington Beach pier. All I could do to keep it on the bike path.

All this reminds me that I seriously need a vacation!

there are a couple of famous surf spots right across the street; (PCH) Staircase is one, then further down there's Heavens, near Leo Carrillo camp grounds..there's others, I forgot the names, but Scotty Dread (county line surf fixture) would know..as for me, I haven't been in the water in the ten years I've been here.. (did you know there are fish under the surface that want to eat you?)

oh btw was anyone from here shining a blue laser from around county line/Neptunes Net over the weekend? I was shining my new Thor Magnum into the night sky and then this blue laser appeared!..

I went hiking up at circle X ranch last weekend, but my green laser pen was broken at the time. So I passed right by Neptunes.

Ted: where abouts in Ventura are you? I live in agoura hills, which is pretty close to you.

that would be in Ventura county, about a short mile North of the actual LA/Ventura county line sign, right off the highway. Just a bit further North of me is what they call the "County Line" surf spot -- right across from 'the Net' --
(most expensive greasy spoon in the US probably; for $4.50 you get this little foam dixie cup of chili..free crackers though.)

there's helicopter service to the hospital when you get totalled trying to come out of the Net parking lot on busy summer weekend.. happens often..watch out - too crowded there on nice weekends for me..tons of motorcycles too.

Yes, We get Good reasonably Frequent Surf here in the UK, Croyde North Devon.
I have been surfing on & off for the last 15 years. Taken to an Ocean kayak this year as the appeal to be in the water is always there but not so keen on the Masses surfing here. I can now paddle out well beyond the litter of people sat out back. Now the fitness is coming back I have to admit the next 3 foot clean surf will see me on the long board back out surfing

one of the few things i want to do before i get too old to try anything.


Probably next yr in Bali...