E1e mod what is the maximum potential

E1e mod what is the maximum potential.

I am curious to know how for a single 123 in a E1e can be pushed for maximum brightness.

Here is how the light would be used. It would be carried all of the time and almost never used, even to play with. When it was used, it would never be more than 30 seconds and probably no more than 15 seconds so I don't no how much heat would be a factor. After three or four uses the battery would be pulled and fed to an ARC-LS.

This light would always have company. An ARC-LS with 123 pack and either an ARC-AAA or another ARC-LS with single AA or drained 123. The two ARCs would be doing 99% or the work or more.

This E1e would be a light to fall on when the ARC-LS is not bright enough or when bright light is used as part of a defense package.

Since this would be a tactical light accompanied by two utility lights, white is not absolutely needed.

I will guess the maximum brightness E1 will have a step-up and probably use a 5watt Luxon.

How blinding can an E1e be made if no consideration is given to run-time and not be used more than 30 seconds at a time???

Ok, just in case the E1e cannot be pushed to an acceptable lever, I would also be curious to know how far an E23 can be pushed.

JohnBSydney,

I think under the conditions you have stated, the ampacity of the 123 cell being used will be your limiting factor. I have played with some 5W Luxeons on an E1e and could hear some singing from within? I don't know if the sound is from the battery or the driver but I could also see that the light output was not equal to that of the LED being driven by 2 123 cells. I understand that the SF 123's have been specially designed for high current demand so they may be your best bet on an E1e. I think if you are willing to go to the E2e, you can drive a 5W Luxeon at full power for the short periods mentioned without ill effect to the LED. I would recommend a 5W SE using the E2e's reflector for the light concentration. This will give you a beam that is significantly larger in diameter but of similar intensity to a 1W Luxeon. If you want similar beam size but further throw, I think you need to wait for a new optic or reflector to come available. I gave my wife an E2e with C2 bezel, E2C adapter and a P61 120 lumen lamp. This is a PUNCH of light in a small package. From my limited experience, you need a 5W Luxeon in a turbo head to come close in comparison.

- Don

EDIT: I gave this light to my wife as a defense package as you have suggested above. She also has a 1W Luxeon light for normal duty.

Jon, I agree with your assessment that at least at 5W, heat won't be much of an issue. I don't have an E1 but I would guess that it has at least 50g mass of aluminum. If so, at 5W for 30 seconds you are looking at only 3C rise of the body. The die on the other hand jumps almost instantly by 50-60C. Don is right that choice of 123 probably makes a significant difference. I suspect that for the scenario you outline some are probably able to deliver 5W. Actual power to the luxeon would be reduced by invertor losses. I agree with Don that if you are willing to go to a E2 the task of driving to 5W and beyond becomes easier. This is especially true from the standpoint of invertor design. BTW, some [most?] high current 123 cells contain a PTC device that acts as a self resetting fuse and thus would serve to limit the maximum current drawn from the cell. These are fairly slow acting so for the 15-30 second bursts of your application will carry quite a bit over rated without tripping.
EDIT: Actually answering your question, if you use as a criterion for "maximum" that the die "absolute maximum temp" is not exceeded, with optimal design you are looking at somewhere in the range of 8-9W to the LED. This might be achievable in the E2 or other 2X123 design.