cr123 body for Fenix L1T?

MikeHunt79

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I tried searching but it doesn't seem to be working at the moment. :(

I need to know a few things about the 123 body for the fenix L series.

1) who sells them and how much are they? 4sevens has them on his site but there is no price on there.

2) Will the L1T work ok with 3.7v rechargable li-ions? or is it better suited to the 3v types?

3) Does it keep the 2 stage ability with the 123 body?
 

NutSAK

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So far, there has not been a CR123 body made specifically for the L1T. One has been made for the L1P that will fit the L1T with modifications, but they're sold out and won't be produced again.

4sevens has mentioned recently that he is working on another run of these that will be designed specifically for the L1T/L2T head. It will possibly be available in a couple of months.

The two stage still works (same level low, brighter high level) with the CR123 body. I've not tried RCR123's in mine yet. The 4.2V maximum for the RCR123's is over the rated max voltage of the L1T head at 4.0V.
 

Long John

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Hello Mike:)

So far I remember right, the L series will drop out of regulation with LiIons.
The 2-stage "Low" modus has had worked at a few lights, but at the most not.
To use the LiIons will have the risk to burn out the driver and/or the Led in longtime uses.
You can also use the 14500 cells with the risks above.

I would go the safe nimh-way.:)
Or take another light, build for RCR's.

Best regards

____
Tom
 

:)>

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NutSAK said:
So far, there has not been a CR123 body made specifically for the L1T. One has been made for the L1P that will fit the L1T with modifications, but they're sold out and won't be produced again.

4sevens has mentioned recently that he is working on another run of these that will be designed specifically for the L1T/L2T head. It will possibly be available in a couple of months.

The two stage still works (same level low, brighter high level) with the CR123 body. I've not tried RCR123's in mine yet. The 4.2V maximum for the RCR123's is over the rated max voltage of the L1T head at 4.0V.

My L1T's head says L1T/L2T on it. If it is the same head for both lights, then the L1T can run on the RCR123 even if it comes off the charger at 4.2V.

I am really looking forward to this and what would be nice is if Nekomane would produce an aftermarket clip like the Gerber IU:rock:

-Goatee
 

:)>

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I don't know the answer to that. I cannot fit an RCR123 into my Nekomane 123 adapter. I would imagine that it does run in regulation.

-Goatee
 

lightningbug

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I have both the L2P and L1/L2T heads on 123 bodies. Both use a modded tailcap. The L2P works great with high and low, and is very bright on high. The L1/L2T works on low by twisting the tailcap on, then medium by clicking the switch, then high by turning the bezel. The three levels are very distinct, and the highest level is very bright. There is some modification necessary to make the body work with the L1/L2T head, but its very easy. The L1/L2T x 123 combination is one of my favorite lights and the output levels are nearly identical to my HDS lights. The length is exactly the same as the L0P, and a MiniMag or Gerber Infinity Ultra pocket clip fits perfectly.

All the Lithium-Ion rechargeables I have will not fit in the 123 body, so I use primaries. Most of the use the lights see is with low power, and I've yet to see a drop in output or replace a battery.

Keep your eyes peeled on the BST board for one, or wait until we can persuade Nekomane and 4sevens to do another batch. They sold for $19.95.

A small Pelican or Otter case, with a foam insert will house the 2XAA, 1XAA, 123, and CR2 bodies along with the head and spare batteries. What a great setup to put in your bug out bag!

I surely hope they make some more, and count me in for a couple!
 
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nekomane

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4sevens has posted here that he probably won't order more for the L2P.
I've also discussed this with him and we both think that the timing has passed to have another batch machined.

I don't use rechargables but remember someone posting that unprotected RCRs from member AW fit.
 

jsr

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For those looking for skinnier Protected R123As, my recent ones purchased from Dae fit great in my Jet1. They slide right out, no sticking. My old ones from Dae were far too thick to fit in my Jet1, even after sanding the sides down. Since the Jet1 is another light that fits virtually no Protected R123As (except for anomolies), the new Protected R123As from Dae might work for the Fenix 123A tubes.
 

Dark Vapor

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I sanded the inside of an extra 123 body just enough to fit a protected rcr123. You can see that the wall is slightly thinner, but using the two-finger pressure gave the impression that it would hold up. Mind you, I didn't use the death grip to try to crush it flat. Also, the battery will provide support to the body; so will the head and tailcap once it is assembled (from my observation and playing with it).

A dremel type tool was used to increase the inside diameter by about 1mm.
 

nekomane

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The walls where the O-rings fit are only 0.275mm thick. Be careful boring the tube any further!
 
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Blindasabat

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Nekomane,
Great job on the L2P CR123 (and CR2) bodies. A lot of people are anxiously waiting for the L1T/2T version. Are you working on one? I don't think I've seen you confirm that anywhere.
If so, do you think you could make a small batch faster without o-rings? I know that is a tough area to machine and I'd buy one of those and then still get one made later with o-rings. I just want to see what this puppy can do.
Plus, while you are at it, that version could more easily be made to fit RCR123's...
nekomane said:
The walls where the O-rings fit are only 0.55mm thick. Be careful boring the tube any further!
 

Walt175

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nekomane said:
4sevens has posted here that he probably won't order more for the L2P.
I've also discussed this with him and we both think that the timing has passed to have another batch machined.

I don't use rechargables but remember someone posting that unprotected RCRs from member AW fit.

Blindasabat, apparently they are not planning on making any more of these. :(
 

Blindasabat

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Walt175 said:
Blindasabat, apparently they are not planning on making any more of these. :(
:( is right.
I'm hoping he meant for L2Ponly, that the time had passed for another L2P order because of the L2T replacing the L2P.
Crossing my fingers...
Neko?
 

Casual Flashlight User

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Sad news...I would have liked to have tried an L2P or L2T w/CR2 and tritiums.
frown.gif




CFU
 

Dark Vapor

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You still can. If you have the bodies for the L1/2P, all you need do is remove the anodizing from either end of the threading and insert a makeshift spacer out of 18ga solid Cu wire (no soldering needed), solder, copper tubing, etc., and there you have it.

I'm using the Cu wire spacer method on L1/2T with the 123 body.
 

Blindasabat

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Dark Vapor said:
You still can. If you have the bodies for the L1/2P, all you need do is remove the anodizing from either end of the threading and insert a makeshift spacer out of 18ga solid Cu wire (no soldering needed), solder, copper tubing, etc., and there you have it.

I'm using the Cu wire spacer method on L1/2T with the 123 body.

I thought about using a spacer, but won't it move around and cause intermittant contact if it is loose? Or did you make it tight?

hmm, I'm thinking now... A slice of tubing cut open and widened out to keep itself in place inside the L1T head. Dammit, no time to go to the hardware store for 5/8 copper tubing... drat.
 

NutSAK

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You don't want the spacer to move around inside the head. If the spacer intermittently contacts the circuit board and the body of the light, it will intermittently be switching to high mode when in low.

It's a good idea to solder the wire in place on the circuit board, and position it as close to the sides of the head as possible without actually touching. This will ensure a positive contact with the body and no interference with the CR123 battery.

I just soldered two small sections of wire in, 180 degrees from each other. See pic.

170348157.jpg
 
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Dark Vapor

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The Cu wire spacer doesn't have to be a full "ring," but it should be long enough and bent not fit perfectly in the head. It should be spread out a bit where you have to, say, "squeeze" it to fit it in the head. The "spring" tension will help keep it in place; I have this set up in my L2P head (I'm running a 14500 and using two Cu wire spacers - unsoldered).

I did solder the Cu wire spacer to the L1T head. This was done when I first received it about 2 months. But if I had to do over, I don't think I would have soldered it.

Anyway, good luck on whichever method you use.
 
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