Has anyone had problems with Fenix clickie mechanism?

Spordin

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Feb 4, 2005
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I ask because I've read a few threads in the past that mentioned reliability issues with the Fenix clickie. Not trying to trash Fenix, just an honest question.

For around the home or normal edc, this wouldn't be such a big deal. Just return for a replacement. But I'm still collecting my BOB/survival lights, and reliability is a huge issue when so much is at stake.

Were there problems in the past? If so, have they been addressed?
 

RebelXTNC

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Feb 8, 2006
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I haven't had any problem with a switch going bad, but I did recently receive one that was bad from the start. My first 4 Fenix clickies were good, #5 arrived clicking poorly. The P1 and E1 twisties are super smooth.
 

TigerhawkT3

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I have an L2T (see my sig), and it's perfect. I EDC it now, and I can hardly tell it's there! It's quite a reduction of weight and bulk over the SLPPL4AA I used to EDC.

My switch initially protruded too far to tailstand, but after emailing Fenix and disassembling the switch a few times, it's just recessed enough.

It's so awesome.
 

Krit

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Fenix L1T use soft clicky swith and it is very good for use. I think it is rather good as momentary switch.
 

light_emitting_dude

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My clickie just went bad on my L2T. I tested it with a multimeter and no luck. I also touched a wire from the batt neg to the body and the light works. Just waiting for fenix-store to respond.

Anyone else having Fenix clickie/tailcap issues. I have heard this alot with the surefire clickies.
 

munkybiz_9881

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kansas
No issues here, both the L1T and L1P are going strong. The L1P switch is quite a bit softer to activate that the L1T though, a little annoying but definitely not an issue for me.
 

evanlocc

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Actually you can try to disassemble the entire tail cap and clean it out.

Mine once got problem after kid pool test, after cleaning and still kicking strong!
 

ace0001a

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When I first got my L2T the tailcap button got stuck every few clicks, but hasn't been a problem after using it for a month now...
 

nerdgineer

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No problems with my 3xL1P clickies - although they haven't been used that heavily. Have several Civictor's which (of course) have 100% reliable switches as they're twisties.
 
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Turbo DV8

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My L2P has two issues. First, the rubber protrudes a bit too far to stand on end, as it is supposed to be able to. How did you fix this, Tigerhawk?

Second, my L2P does not like vibration. Specifically, the tailcap-to-body contact. After each day of carrying my L2P in a reasonably padded bag on my motorcycle, the light would be dim or flicker until I loosened and retightened the tailcap. I made sure the contact surfaces were polished finely. I have never had this problem with the L2P at any time other than taking it on motorcycle trips.

To deviate from the question, since nobody asked, I would not buy another Fenix. I think they are a little overpriced for what you get. Although my E1 works fine enough, and the threads are butter-smooth, the beam is unnecessarily ringy. Also, the P1 I received was DOA. It would flicker and never put out anywhere near it's full output, which was confirmed by the retailer. The metal casing of the P1 was so embarrassingly thin it felt downright cheap, and when the flashlight was "off," there was no spring to keep the battery from banging back and forth into the positive contact. Considering the stage in the LED flashlight's evolution, and considering where the Fenix are made, and the quality issues I have seen so far, I can get the same for less elsewhere nowadays. I really tire of some sellers asking made-in-USA prices for made-in-China flashlights. :dedhorse: That's just my take.
 

St8kout

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My L2T head on the CR123 body is my favorite light with no clicky problems.
 

ace0001a

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I think that any manufacturer of anything you buy will go through quality level cycles. I'm a computer technician for over 10 years and I've seen my fair share of good name brand parts manufacturers go from being aweful to mediocre to excellent and back down again. I think Fenix has made a name for themselves in the mid-class flashlight market and I honestly believe they probably one of the best flashlight makers out of China. Their pricing isn't much more than many of the flashlights you can buy at the major department stores here in the US. Just go to places like Target and Sears where you'll find comparable Dorcy or Brinkmann flashlights for around the same price. The funny thing is, most of those flashlights are made in China too. Currently I own an L2P and L2T and both have had their minor quirks. The afformentioned tailcap button sticking on my L2T was one. On my L2P, I had a similar issue as someone else here where the light would not come on after having the batteries rattle around a bit. I tried a different set of batteries and that problem hasn't showed up again. The frugal side of me wished they were a little bit less, but I think they're more or less worth what you pay for them.
 

LowBat

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L1P with thousands of clicks and still working great. I might have to use that replacement rubber switch cover one of these days at the rate I use this thing.
 

NutSAK

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I've been carrying an L2P with an L1P or CR123 body daily (with rough use) for nearly a year, and have had no problems. I have 3 other L2Ps and 3 L2Ts that serve various uses that also have had no problems with the switch mechanism. Most of those were purchased used and had plenty of use before I received them.

I try to be prepared, so I have a couple of extra switches put aside "just in case". I haven't had to use them yet.
 

TORCH_BOY

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I did have a problem with one of mine, It just wouldnt switch on, Remedy just had to slightlyloosen the metal collar that holds the Clickie in place.
 
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