removing any oxidation off makes the solder stick faster.
sometimes if your Too fast with the soldering, its just stuck there by the resin, kinda resien glued on it. and it can make contact, but will fall off in eventuality.
if you use 400-1000 sandpaper and remove the top layer of any oxidation or fingerprint oils or whatever might be there, then a Quick solder of the cell is easier and holds well.
i have some "tabbed" cells, and whoever did the tabbing, hit them a lot harder than my soldering does, they had slightly dinged the cell, and you can see the heated area.
if you ask me a well done fast soldering, is as good as a tabbing, and probably better than a bad tabbing.
a 25W solder gun will not nessisarily do the soldering fast enough, but the 40 warmed up works.
pre-tin the metal strip , or any wire you intend to attach, so the operation stays fast again.
the quality or type of inusulation put on the metal strip or wire that you use to go NEXT to the opposing pole, should be a definate concideration.
as the run that goes to the other pole, can form a Dead Short, so at least think about the kind and type of insulation that is running down your opposite pole.
Will it handle HEAT?
will it handle Impact?
does it insulate fully, even if it gets in bad situations?
does it fully cover any areas of pole to pole contact?
is the Corner fully protected, as it can get banged?
the reason i say this , is because the thin cardboard like strips seem to be better than the thin piece of plastic junk.
whatever, i think its just important, because whatever goes to the other pole becomes your fire starting hotwire in a incident.