Rayovac T1 bulbs

Hello everyone! This is my first post on CPF. So I'll keep it simple.

I'm not a big ML fan, but I just came across these Rayovac T1 bulbs at Wal*Mart and thought I'd try them out and see if I could improve on the stock mini-ML bulbs.

Each bulb was run in a mini-ML for about an hour. The bulb on the left is the standard mini-ML T1 bulb. The one on the right is the Rayovac T1 bulb. Note the larger glass area of the ROV and how it didn't get black like the typical ML T1 did.



The ROV T1 bulb seems to be somewhat brighter than the ML T1 (maybe 20% more) and less yellow too. To me, the larger glass area should allow the bulb to run cooler; resulting in a longer run-time for the bulb before failing. Those stock ML T1's fail way too quickly! My kids "use" a couple of these mini-ML's with the new ROV T1 bulbs, so I'll watch and see how they last.

Well, so much for my first post.

I have several new Streamlights that I'd like to write mini-reviews for (with screen shots of course), but I thought I'd start with something simple first while getting comfortable using this new board. My favorite light so far is the SL 4aa (latest version with clicky switch and integrated lens/lamp).

Cool pic, and welcome....

I'm going to move this to Modified...

--dan

oops. Sorry about that. Go figure that I'd post to the wrong board on my first try.

Originally posted by brio:
My favorite light so far is the SL 4aa (latest version with clicky switch and integrated lens/lamp).

Click to expand...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Hi Brio,

Welcome to the CPF! It is very fun and dangerous place. I am always finding new lights to spend money on.

Speaking of which, I have been very curious about the new SL 4AA. I am looking forward to your review. In the meantime one quick question, is the reflector on this one smooth or stipled (dimpled, orange peel, stochastic, whatever way you like to put it)?

Thanks in advance,
Pat

I purchased a package of Rayovac T-1 bulbs, but have not used them yet. The reason I purchased them was because I was at Wal Mart and noticed them next to the Mag Lite bulbs; furthermore, the Rayovac were about 50 cents cheaper for a total of about 1.50 before tax.

I am guessing that they will never blacken and should last about twice as long because they are filled with an inert gas instead of a premium vacuum. Basically, when the filament of a light bulb is hot, molecules of tungston fly off making the filament smaller and the glass blacker. An inert gas molecule will simply get in the way of a tungston molecule and most likely knock it back onto the filament keeping the glass clear and the filament strong.

The newer SL 4AA has a textured reflector that, to me, gives a near perfect beam. It's a white smooth round beam with no dark spots or rings. The light also has a nice halo around it for area light too. Having the lens and bulb built/calibrated at the factory seems to provide a well-tuned beam each and every time without having to "fiddle" with the bulb; the aluminum relector is high-quality too. Of course, you pay a little more when it comes time to replace it, but not much. I plan on posting a mini-review very soon with beam shots included; comparing it with a mini and 3D mag for reference.
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To Jbirk:

Yes, I remember reading that somewhere too about the tungston and adding the inert gas. The thing is, I couldn't find anything on the ROV packaging that stated something like Krypton, Xenon, or some kind of halogen in general. Just said it was "high intensity", whatever that measures against... They do seem like a better bulb. Still is amazing how my little 2AAA Super MityLite beats the pants off the mini-ML.