Amber LS Mods - any one done any? Beam Shots?

Has anyone done any mods with the amber 1 watt LS? I'm wondering how the SE would do if installed direct-drive in my 2C mag...

Jon

It's not a flashlight/torch, but I'm using 4 amber LSs each in my car's front parking lights/turn signals. The Lambertian with 120 degree beam spread is great for a high visibility signal lamp.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=15;t=000090

I sold it long ago and the only beamshot I have any more isn't comparative, but maybe it will help:

Interesting timing. I just finished my last McLux and it's an amber SE for Kiessling. I was surprised to find that with the McFlood reflector that there is a rather distinct center beam of relatively significant intensity. I have noticed with the white and red SE's that you get a brighter center but the amber seems to be more pronounced. I will be interested to see tonight if this beam has any throw to it. A beam shot below, for what it's worth (not much).



- Don

Looks like the sun itself...

yeah Don !!!!!!!!
send it to me immediately!!!! can't wait ....
- bernhard

BTW: it's "kiessling", not "keissling"
but as I am not Mistress Sasha, you won't be whipped for this horrible mistake

and ahem ... thanx very much.

Silviron,

Is that driven directly? Any resistors or anything? Also, Is that a side emitter?

McGizmo,

Same question, is that direct-drive and if so are you driving it with 3 volts?

Some people have mentioned that high dome (lambetian?) emitters work better in mag reflectors than side emitters. Anyone know for sure?

Jon

StoneDog,

The amber McLux that the beam shot was taken from is using a Badboy 400 on a single 123 cell. I did a bench test with a red 1W luxeon hooked directly to a brand new SF 123 cell and measured 460 mA initially and it droped rather quickly down to about 410 mA. I suspect that both the red and amber LED's can be driven very effectively as well *** efficiently in direct drive with single 123 cells. The actual Vf of the Luxeon will make a big difference here but certainly the possibilities are good.

- Don

The amber or red Star/Os work fine on 3VDC, I modded two 2D size Ray o Vac "industrial"
flashlites they wowrk "da ballz". Also did
2D / Micropuck / white (or blue) Star/O mod.
Heatsinking is just a matter of a dab of arctic silver epoxy and a leftover TO-220 type heatsink
(or anything else that will fit inside).
these 2D R-o-Vs are my favorite, easy to mod lights, all that is neded to re-work the reflector is a sharp pair of small wirecutters.
the plastic is not that hard brittle stuff, it cuts easily and neatly. Having the batteries in their own separate compartment is a real plus here... Besides, they are low priced (read that cheap!).

/ed B in NH

I have an early "prototype" red and amber star (alas, no optics) I should try in that 2D RayOVac Industrial. I didn't think a TO-220 sink , or even two, would be enough for the luxeon.
I bought one of the lights at Home Depot for about $6 because it looked comfortable (it is) and it has a battery indicator. The indicator works much better than the one on the Craftsman/Sears rubber 4D lantern. Yellow's on at about 2.2V.
Not sure how I'd get the LED in at just the right depth, or how I might attach a heatsink with a screw since I have only regular epoxy, but you're right, the reflector is not the usual plastic. For one thing, the bulb butts right up on it so it must be fairly heat resistant.
Do you attach the star to the reflector or the plastic struts in the head? If the former, how do you deal with the screw-on part twisting the wires?