Indoor Shootout

I just did a qick and dirty indoor shootout featuring some of my current lights.

Camera settings are fixed of course, and the "environment" (that would be my living room) is dirty ... meaning you got high contrast, reflections and backscatter all over the place. The real world instead of a white wall.

All lights had fresh batteries in them.
The camera was put to "daylight" white balance, and the tints of the LEDs as well as the incan glow are greatly overemphasized here.

For example, the McLuxIII-PD-Ti has a vanilla tint in reality, and we all know how the A2 should look. Digital cameras aren't there yet, or, as an alternative, the user isn't either :huh: :green:

Of course the shots came out too dark , and I consequently altered the brightness. As all were treated the same way, a comparison is still valid.

BUT ... remember the Luxeon Lottery :sick2:

Here are the pics without further comment:







































bernie

:twothumbsNice pictures Bernie, very interesting:goodjob:

Best regards

_______
Tom:wave:

Great Shots!!!! Bernie, I must commend you on your photographic technique. Very nice shots indeed!!!

Does the L4 tint really look that sick?

No, it doesn't. It is on the warm and slightly green side, but not this green as in the pic.
My camera exaggerated all tints including incan yellow when set to "daylight". None of those lights that do show a tint have it to that extent.

However ... any LED light, even the whitest ones, will show a tint once you fire it up next to another LED light onto a white wall.
If you are critical about tint, I wouldn't do this

bernie

Thanks for sharing!
Your U2 and L2 beams look fantastic (so does the L6-PP).
Are these the cream of your crop in your opinion or would you pick a different top three beams?

Al

For tint, the L2, U2 and L6 are top notch, and the M180 and L5 come closely behind (LED only of course).

The UV1J tint of the McLuxIII-PD-Ti looks greenish here, but is in fact vanilla. My best tint so far in my very personal opinion, looks a bit like a very white incan. More natural then the pure white. A recent discovery only, but from now on I'll take xV1x whenever I can.

For brightness / overachievers ... the U2 and L2 are candidates.

For beam shape ... too much depending on the task at hand. I prefer the U2 and everything that is McR20 or McR-27L equipped ... because of corona and spill management as well as area coverage in the medium field.


bernie

Excellent shots as always Bernie !!! :bow:

yep, I Definately need an E series 27L head, yep, gots to have one.

~John

John, 27L reflector fits into a G2 and with a little coaxing, also into a C2 head... nice combo with an E2C adapter.

Then there's the one I cut down to fit in my Aleph2 head... :naughty:

jtice said:

Excellent shots as always Bernie !!! :bow:

yep, I Definately need an E series 27L head, yep, gots to have one.

~John

Click to expand...

Bernie,

You must have a PERFECT U2! Mine is good, but that looks like NO donut, very bright!

Great pics, BTW!!!

Thanks for the work!

Bill

milkyspit said:

John, 27L reflector fits into a G2 and with a little coaxing, also into a C2 head... nice combo with an E2C adapter.

Then there's the one I cut down to fit in my Aleph2 head... :naughty:

Click to expand...

ohhhh very interesting.
Do you have to cut much of it off to get it in the C2?
Also, is there a fairly easy way to convert the C2 to led?

I would rather have an e series head,
but making a C2 head to go on my L5 body wouldnt be bad either.

~John

Nice pictures.

That L4 looks anemic compared to the L2 (and compared to the U2 and L6 as well). How old is the different lights, maybe the newer lights are better performing?
I would expect the L6 porky to get better than average emitters, so maybe your U2 and L2 are over achievers.

I hope someone will start making 27L E series heads

Sigbjoern

jtice said:

ohhhh very interesting.
Do you have to cut much of it off to get it in the C2?
Also, is there a fairly easy way to convert the C2 to led?

I would rather have an e series head,
but making a C2 head to go on my L5 body wouldnt be bad either.

~John

Click to expand...

I just did this very mod, its not oo hard if you have access to a lathe. You have to remove about 5mm from the wide end of the reflector, then remove all the steps from the outside so it is a smooth cone. Then build an Aleph light engine kit to your desired specs. The LE screws into the E2C adapter, drop the reflector in the top and screw in to your C2 head then you are done. See my thread here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/128641

marc

Wow nice pics! :thumbsup:

Great!! . The CR2 Ion is Really Dull .

Lurveleven said:

Nice pictures.

That L4 looks anemic compared to the L2 (and compared to the U2 and L6 as well). How old is the different lights, maybe the newer lights are better performing?
Sigbjoern

Click to expand...

With a current L4 that I recently got, the roles were turned in comparison with my L2 (and it isnt shabby). So yes, the new lights might be getting the results of a maturing manufactoring process.

nice pics! :goodjob:

you wouldnt happen to have outdoor beamshots of those lights as well would you?

John,

I don't see how you're going to fit a 27L reflector in an E-series head... unless Don builds us something compatible!

As far as the C2, it really isn't that large, and using a tapered ECBezel as sold at Lighthound makes IMHO a nice looking head. The 27L doesn't need anything cut off the end, it would just need a bit of sanding down the outside... the stock reflector gets hung up on the threads in the C2 head... probably only needs a small fraction of a millimeter of material removed from around the reflector's outside.

You could us an eCan and drop it down into the ECBezel itself to mount the LED and circuit board... there's a thread floating around CPF someplace where somebody did exactly that. Pretty neat!
:thumbsup:

Or you could get lazy and let me do a build for ya! :laughing: Anyway, let me know if you need some help.

jtice said:

ohhhh very interesting.
Do you have to cut much of it off to get it in the C2?
Also, is there a fairly easy way to convert the C2 to led?

I would rather have an e series head,
but making a C2 head to go on my L5 body wouldnt be bad either.

~John

Click to expand...

Surefire is famous (infamous?) for slipstreaming improvements into their lights with no model number change, no product announcement, no indication whatsoever that anything has changed. One example: even in the OLD-STYLE L1, they started with a plain bezel, then switched to scalloped bezel, then started installing high dome emitters rather than the low domes they'd been using... and all the while the Surefire website didn't mention any of these changes. oo:

Luna said:

With a current L4 that I recently got, the roles were turned in comparison with my L2 (and it isnt shabby). So yes, the new lights might be getting the results of a maturing manufactoring process.

Click to expand...

Yes, the L2 and U2 there are certainly overachievers in every aspect.
Whereas the L4 is one of the very very first generation and is realtively dim compared to the others. Perfect donut-free beam though.

Cutting down a McR-27L to fit into an Aleph2 head is basically ... McR-20 !! :nana:

And yes, we absolutely need anAleph-LE compatible 27L head. Agreed. oo:

The CR2 Ion is a light running on a single CR2 for a long time and was outgunned from the beginning. This is not a "fair" comparo here, but is shows the very even flood of the Ion, which is why I included it. A comparison of power is ridiculous from the start, sorry about that.


marxs ... I have quite a lot of outdoor shots. Which lights do you want to see?

bernie


P.S.: thanx for the nice words, guys