will a nite ize iq switch fit on a MMLED?

kinda thinking about a MiniMagLED, but I really want a tail clickie, and the multiple brightness levels would be nice, will the niteize fit them or not?

or should I just stick with the l2t?

I tried this last night. Both the Kroll and NiteIze switches fit, but they don't operate the light. The reason is that the point of electrical contact is different. The old MM made contact through the tailcap threads. The new MMLED has a band of exposed metal just below the threads for electrical contact. I'm guessing that if someone wanted to experiment and remove the anodizing on the MMLED threads, the switches might work but I haven't tried it.

Won't work without modification. The tailcap of the new MM LED is considerably longer (a stupid waste of space) It looks like a giant solitaire tailcap. Likewise, the new MM LED body is longer.

I have a temporary solution for a new NiteIze IQ switch using a ~1/2 #4 sheet metal screw thru the spring, but I plan to cut the body down about 0.25". This will also expose aluminium for better contact. A longer spring and polishing the anodize off the threads might work.

Mag must have hired a mEchanical eGINer from Brinkman or something. Or perhaps the new tailcap design saved them a penny. Dumb; Totally dumb.

While I am Mag bashing, the "3W" LED 2AA light draws 0.47 A at 3V. That's less than 1.5W, MI Corp. What happened to your values?

Electrolumens did the modification, here's the thread.

Is the head and lamp assembly of MM LED interchangeable with incan MM?

Somebody tried this and it blew out the switch.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/131623

darmawaa said:

Is the head and lamp assembly of MM LED interchangeable with incan MM?

Click to expand...

Nope.

DonShock said:

Somebody tried this and it blew out the switch.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/131623

Click to expand...

A useful warning; I am still trying to understand how this could be possible circuit wise. I do know it is possible to fracture the solder joint at the bas of the spring, to create an intermittient or non functional switch.

So far, other than the mechanical issues, the only problem I have seen is some flicker on the low setting. The active circuits in the 2 devices "mode" with a slow annoying flicker. The exact behavior seems battery dependent.

There is a small rapid (~55 Hz) strobe effect on medium, too.

Update:

Even when the mechanical differrences are overcome, the MY IQ switch does not work well with my MM 2AA LED. On bright it looses about half its output, when I am running on a single AA Li-Ion. This, plus the odd flicker I reported before, especially on low, make it mostly useless.

I stretched the spring on mine and it works...but really cuts the output down. It`s not a good solution at all. And I also see flickering on the lower levels.

Ken