Bike ride - JetBeam CR123, MM L1P & FF3

Tremendo

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Kingwood, TX
Just went running with my wife and son on bikes. My son's bike had a JetBeam CR123 mounted, my wife's a MillerMods L1P, and I had an FF3 in hand (running). The bike lights were on for 31 minutes non stop, once it got dark. No noticeable brightness change.

Although the MML1P is very bright in it's own right, the JetBeam CR123 has such a great wide spot and strong fill, it was easier a better bike light for seeing the trail. However, using CR123's it cost much more to use, since the MML1P has longer battery life and also works on rechargeables. The FF3 also has a large spot and great fill (similar to JetBeam), but is also brighter and works on rechargeables.

So for me....
#1 - FF3 : wide spot, great fill, extremely bright, rechargeables.
#2 - JetBeam CR123 : wide spot, great fill, very bright.
#3 - MM L1P : medium/small spot, ok fill, pretty bright, rechargeables.
 

cryhavok

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The Jetbeam can also use rechargeables. I have my mine attached to my keychain running RCR123's and it makes a great (albeit a little big) keychain EDC.
 

BentHeadTX

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I use my MM L1P as a helmet light and agree with Tremendo on his observations. However, I changed out the R bin LuxeonI with a UWOJ LuxeonIII and for some reason, the spot is larger...not brighter but larger. It works better as a bicycle helmet light now so I am satisfied.

What level did you run your FF3 while riding, Tremendo? Mine is on the keys in case I run out of battery juice on some of my longer night rides and it does work well. The T bin FF3 on max will beat out the MillerMods L1P U bin at 500mA so it works well as a backup when needed.
 

nightrider

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I ride trails at night during the winter months. Last season I carried an L1P as a back-up "get me out of the woods" light just in case my main system or anyone else's went down. This season I will carry the P1 and/or the Jet-1 CR123 in my pack for this. I use rechargagle RCR123 regulated/protected 3.0v cells in both lights. Last year the L1P got a couple of folks out of the woods when their main system batteries died early. This year, the back up will even be better! (All these small lights are easy helmet-mount strap-ons if you stick them in their carry case, with the light facing out, and velcro them onto the helmet).
 

Tremendo

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Kingwood, TX
cryhavok said:
The Jetbeam can also use rechargeables.
The only rechargeables I have are for my FF3, and they are too tight for my JetBeak CR123. It seems like I could cram it in, but even though it might shrink a tiny bit, I couldn't get it out. I've tried a depleted RCR123, too tight. Is there are different type to get?


BentHeadTX said:
What level did you run your FF3 while riding, Tremendo?
If I want it always on, I leave it on high (about 15). If I use it intermitently, I leave it ready to goto Max (2 quick turns and leave off.)
 

BentHeadTX

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Tremendo said:
If I want it always on, I leave it on high (about 15). If I use it intermitently, I leave it ready to goto Max (2 quick turns and leave off.)

Mine is programmed for 2/12 and burst for a more even spread. I did the dreaded "white wall" beam test with interesting results. The FF3 hotspot/spill is larger than the Ubin MillerMods L1P but not by a huge margin. Strangely, the U bin MM L1P will outhrow the Fire~Fly 3 by a razor slim margin as the hotspot is slightly brighter! That U bin is also more bluish but that is fine by me, it is more noticeable to drivers.

Compared a stock R bin L1P against the UWOJ MM L1P and the MM L1P has a larger hotspot. Somehow I changed the focus of the light when I changed LEDs but it worked out for the best.

From all night nightlight, to back-up bike light to photon throwing screamer... still have the love for my EDC keychain light after 6 months of use. It does not get much better than that (until I can get a X bin K2!)

If you really want to annoy drivers--throw the FF3 into strobe mode :D
 

cryhavok

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Tremendo said:
The only rechargeables I have are for my FF3, and they are too tight for my JetBeak CR123. It seems like I could cram it in, but even though it might shrink a tiny bit, I couldn't get it out. I've tried a depleted RCR123, too tight. Is there are different type to get?

The CR123 tube needs to be filed a little bit depending on the cell used. I use protected RCR123's from batterystation and I had to file the inside of the tube a little bit for them to fit correctly. Also, there is a specific orientation that works best to give the least resistance when inserting the battery. The light becomes quite a bit brighter when using the rechargeables...


BentHeadTX said:
Compared a stock R bin L1P against the UWOJ MM L1P and the MM L1P has a larger hotspot. Somehow I changed the focus of the light when I changed LEDs but it worked out for the best.

The reason for the larger hotspot is because the LuxIII physically has a larger die than the LuxI, so it is harder for the reflector to focus it into a tight hotspot. The same thing happens when you have a LuxIII light and put in a LuxV...Usually more light (depending on bin) but the light doesn't form as tight of a hotspot. The same reasoning can be applied to why HID's throw so far...the surface area of where the light is emitted is very tiny.
 
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