W0 vs. X0
- Thread starter Doug
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
Tritium
Enlightened
Doug said:
On observational data only All my W tints are warmer than my X's.
Thurmond
D MacAlpine
Newly Enlightened
I haven't personally got any WO tint luxeons, but I have got a couple of XOs.
I understand that WO is warmer (and some folk prefer it for that), but I wouldn't call XO "blue" - more "extreme white"!
Did you have anything in mind when you asked this? I gather that, personal preferences aside, there are certain advantages to one tint or another depending on what you're using them for.
I understand that WO is warmer (and some folk prefer it for that), but I wouldn't call XO "blue" - more "extreme white"!
Did you have anything in mind when you asked this? I gather that, personal preferences aside, there are certain advantages to one tint or another depending on what you're using them for.
I gave up on XO and even WO. V1 Is the way to go if you love warm tints. You said you like the cooler tints, and thats fine, but the yellow tints really bring out the greens outside. Im never going to use an X0 Or X1 lux again
-bobby
-bobby
270winchester
Flashlight Enthusiast
WOs are warmer, especially if you underdrive it below 700mAh. All the TWOx, UWOx and WWOx I have are nice and warm at 30-150mAh.
cryhavok
Enlightened
My experience with WO's are that they have a slight pink tint to them. I prefer XO because it seems to be the bin that offers the "purist" white.
IsaacHayes
Flashlight Enthusiast
W0 = pretty white, with a slight pink tint. Colors are rendered pretty good, but does not contain a yellow overtone.
X0 = even whiter without the pink, and without being blueish. Think cold cold florecent light. It does have a pink overtone vs blue, but you can't notice it until you fire up a yellow tint next to it. My favorite, as colors aren't "off" and yet it looks super bright and white to my eyes over other tints.
If you want warm, as in incandecent style, you need V1 or X1. They will make plants and nature stand out. I don't like that as it's distracting when walking in the woods, and seems to distract me more somehow, so I go with the X0/W0. But others like to see the greens/browns come out.
V1= yellow overtones. Not as much as incandecent, but a lot more yellowish than W0/etc.
X1= can have greenish overtone, but lately they have been very "white" with a yellow overtone that isn't as strong as the V1. I have a UX1J and it's really white, but compare it to my X0 and it looks yellowish and the X0 looks a tiny bit pinkish.
The YA is purplish/blueish overtones and same for some other tints. I don't like Y0, that one I hate with a passion, to me it seems to make things look almost black and white, just washed out. It's got a strong cyan blue-green overtone. IMO you need something with a yellow or pink overtone to bring out the reds/etc colors for accurate color or things can look sick/fadded/old/dirty. I find the X0 has just enough pink for that but it's not enough to be picked up by the eyes as having a tint.
But if you're looking for warm, check out the X1 or V1's.
X0 = even whiter without the pink, and without being blueish. Think cold cold florecent light. It does have a pink overtone vs blue, but you can't notice it until you fire up a yellow tint next to it. My favorite, as colors aren't "off" and yet it looks super bright and white to my eyes over other tints.
If you want warm, as in incandecent style, you need V1 or X1. They will make plants and nature stand out. I don't like that as it's distracting when walking in the woods, and seems to distract me more somehow, so I go with the X0/W0. But others like to see the greens/browns come out.
V1= yellow overtones. Not as much as incandecent, but a lot more yellowish than W0/etc.
X1= can have greenish overtone, but lately they have been very "white" with a yellow overtone that isn't as strong as the V1. I have a UX1J and it's really white, but compare it to my X0 and it looks yellowish and the X0 looks a tiny bit pinkish.
The YA is purplish/blueish overtones and same for some other tints. I don't like Y0, that one I hate with a passion, to me it seems to make things look almost black and white, just washed out. It's got a strong cyan blue-green overtone. IMO you need something with a yellow or pink overtone to bring out the reds/etc colors for accurate color or things can look sick/fadded/old/dirty. I find the X0 has just enough pink for that but it's not enough to be picked up by the eyes as having a tint.
But if you're looking for warm, check out the X1 or V1's.
nikon
Flashlight Enthusiast
Funny how we perceive tints differently. All XOs have a slight blue tint to my eyes. The WO can look either a bland white or slightly pink. The Vi always seems slightly green to me, and the X1 is usually too green for my taste.
IsaacHayes
Flashlight Enthusiast
nikon, it could be that my X0's vary too. I'm sure that's a varible. I only have 1 set of them from the same batch, so other X0's may be more blue. But typically it seems pretty cold white to me. I've had 2 X1's, both look "white" to my eyes without green, but side by side one looked a lot more yellow than the other.
IsaacHayes said:
My eyes are like IsaacHayes
D MacAlpine
Newly Enlightened
Doug said:
In which case, as the above posts confirm, you'll prefer the XO tint. Apparently it's also good for staying the same colour when you vary the drive levels to the luxeon on a variable level light.
Have fun picking out your next light!
tint is in the eye of the beholder. what's valid for me may or may not be same for you.
shine an led lght next to another and watch the tint shift. sometimes radically. I get second opinions from my two boys all the time shining against a white ceiling.
luxeon lottery applies to tint as well as vf and output. Tbins used to be highly desired, then Ubin etc... Now Ubins are pretty common.
the same progression has occurred in tints. used to be X1 was pretty greenish. now most X1 when driven to spec's are pretty white, shifting twards greenish when underdriven.
WO used to be the standard for white. currently XO is considered more consistantly white.
IsaaccHayes' above post is a pretty good writeup on what to expect for tints per bin codes. but there again what you see may not be the same for me. that why I always will put a disclaimer when describing a light for sale's tint.
shine an led lght next to another and watch the tint shift. sometimes radically. I get second opinions from my two boys all the time shining against a white ceiling.
luxeon lottery applies to tint as well as vf and output. Tbins used to be highly desired, then Ubin etc... Now Ubins are pretty common.
the same progression has occurred in tints. used to be X1 was pretty greenish. now most X1 when driven to spec's are pretty white, shifting twards greenish when underdriven.
WO used to be the standard for white. currently XO is considered more consistantly white.
IsaaccHayes' above post is a pretty good writeup on what to expect for tints per bin codes. but there again what you see may not be the same for me. that why I always will put a disclaimer when describing a light for sale's tint.
wasBlinded
Flashlight Enthusiast
Cy is right, tint will be very much in the eye of the beholder and the other lights available to compare to.
When used alone, VO, WO, XO, and YO bins should all look "white" to the eye, though VO will be more yellow and YO more blue. Within each tint bin there can be a tendency toward green or pink, but that often won't be noticeable unless there is another light to compare to. Even a WO that is on the green side of the "black body line" can look pink when compared to an LED that is even further off the BBL toward green. By the same token, that same WO will look green when compared to a sample a little bit closer to the pink side of the bin. Take a look at the CIE color chart with the bin boxes superimposed, and you will understand some of this better.
Perhaps someone on CPF can develop a black body radiator with temperature adjustment in the 3000 to 7000 degree Kelvin range
. That would be the ideal light standard to compare our LED tints to. I have a feeling it would be pretty expensive and consume lots of power....
When used alone, VO, WO, XO, and YO bins should all look "white" to the eye, though VO will be more yellow and YO more blue. Within each tint bin there can be a tendency toward green or pink, but that often won't be noticeable unless there is another light to compare to. Even a WO that is on the green side of the "black body line" can look pink when compared to an LED that is even further off the BBL toward green. By the same token, that same WO will look green when compared to a sample a little bit closer to the pink side of the bin. Take a look at the CIE color chart with the bin boxes superimposed, and you will understand some of this better.
Perhaps someone on CPF can develop a black body radiator with temperature adjustment in the 3000 to 7000 degree Kelvin range
. That would be the ideal light standard to compare our LED tints to. I have a feeling it would be pretty expensive and consume lots of power....
3rd_shift
Flashlight Enthusiast
To my eyes;
V1 = A good warm white with good outdoor and sometimes good indoor color rendition.
Some of the nicest lights I have ever built for security use had these.
Not all of these were winners though.
A few of these have been a little on the petstain yellowish side with poor color rendition.
X1 = Used to frequently be catpee greenish to nonfat milk greenish.
Now many are quite white with just a slight hint of nonfat milk, catwhiz, mossy green, purplish greenish, or even a pleasant cyan overtone when you deliberately look for it.
When driven hard at full power, or slightly overdriven, these often whiten out nicely.
Outdoor color rendition is also often good with this one.
WO = white, grey-white, or white with a slight pink, or lavender tint.
These like to be driven at full power for whitest whiteness.
Pulse width modulated multibrightness lights seem to do especially well with these.
Good color rendition with this one anywhere you go.
As good as it gets for led imho.
XO = usually quite white at any power level.
Nice and white when underdriven, slightly purplish, or blueish when driven at full power.
Color rendition appears ok, but just not as good as WO IMO
A good choice for resistor based multiple brightness lights.
WA = Puky, or pinkish, or lavender dollhouse tint.
Sometimes looks like an old mercury vapor light in need of a new bulb.
Might be the perfect tint for girls though.
Walk into a girls room with one of these and you'll see.
Color rendition is so-so depending where you go with it.
YO = cyan - sky blue tinted.
When underdrive, it's often a slight bit greenish. :huh2:
At full power, it usually looks nice and HID like.
Color rendition often leaves a bit to be desired with this one though.
A bit more blue than some people are used to seeing.
YA - Purplish, blueish, or blue-pinkish.
Very HID like in appearance at full power.
Color rendition with this one isn't great either.
If anything, this tint can be the biggest eyesore for outdoor use.
V1 = A good warm white with good outdoor and sometimes good indoor color rendition.
Some of the nicest lights I have ever built for security use had these.
Not all of these were winners though.
A few of these have been a little on the petstain yellowish side with poor color rendition.
X1 = Used to frequently be catpee greenish to nonfat milk greenish.
Now many are quite white with just a slight hint of nonfat milk, catwhiz, mossy green, purplish greenish, or even a pleasant cyan overtone when you deliberately look for it.
When driven hard at full power, or slightly overdriven, these often whiten out nicely.
Outdoor color rendition is also often good with this one.
WO = white, grey-white, or white with a slight pink, or lavender tint.
These like to be driven at full power for whitest whiteness.
Pulse width modulated multibrightness lights seem to do especially well with these.
Good color rendition with this one anywhere you go.
As good as it gets for led imho.
XO = usually quite white at any power level.
Nice and white when underdriven, slightly purplish, or blueish when driven at full power.
Color rendition appears ok, but just not as good as WO IMO
A good choice for resistor based multiple brightness lights.
WA = Puky, or pinkish, or lavender dollhouse tint.
Sometimes looks like an old mercury vapor light in need of a new bulb.
Might be the perfect tint for girls though.
Walk into a girls room with one of these and you'll see.
Color rendition is so-so depending where you go with it.
YO = cyan - sky blue tinted.
When underdrive, it's often a slight bit greenish. :huh2:
At full power, it usually looks nice and HID like.
Color rendition often leaves a bit to be desired with this one though.
A bit more blue than some people are used to seeing.
YA - Purplish, blueish, or blue-pinkish.
Very HID like in appearance at full power.
Color rendition with this one isn't great either.
If anything, this tint can be the biggest eyesore for outdoor use.
I would say the difference between WO and XO is very slight. I have both and find it hard to tell the difference. WO is very slightly warmer and XO is slightly cooler. Looking at the colour chart, you can see both bins cover only a small area are directly next to each other. WO and XO are much the same IMO.
Planterz
Flashlight Enthusiast
Tint can still vary quite a bit within a certain bin. I have 6 WO tinted lights. One is slightly pinkish (FF3), one is slightly greenish at lower levels (UWOJ FLuPIC), the rest are mostly identically slightly warm, although the TWOJ in my HDS U60XRGT is very neutrally white. The TWAJ in my Orb Raw Ns looks more like a WO than the WO in my FF3.
The one XO I have (TXOH, from Exolion) is the typical cool white, hint towards blue when compared to WO lights. The YO (TYOJ McLux III PD) I had was slightly bluer.
I have a KL4 head that must have a VO or V1 tint because it's a very creamy, yellowish white. It makes my "warm white" WO lights look purple.
The one XO I have (TXOH, from Exolion) is the typical cool white, hint towards blue when compared to WO lights. The YO (TYOJ McLux III PD) I had was slightly bluer.
I have a KL4 head that must have a VO or V1 tint because it's a very creamy, yellowish white. It makes my "warm white" WO lights look purple.
