before taking apart the dorcy super 1 watt

Im curious on whether or not I can take the dorcy apart to check the bin number of the die and peek at the marvelous regular circuit without destroying the light...:candle:

$20 is cheap enough for a light without fearing I'd void the warranty, if it breaks, Ill buy another one.

I couldn't find the circuit but it is real easy to take apart to check the bin code. No tools required.

Super simple. No tools required.

If you're talking about the CR123 light, you just unscrew the head and the reflector/star assembly just pulls right out of the head. Then you pull off the two piece black retaining collar and lift up the star.
The circuit board is located on top of the body under the little black cap. The black cap should pop off with a little coaxing.

thezman said:

If you're talking about the CR123 light, you just unscrew the head and the reflector/star assembly just pulls right out of the head. Then you pull off the two piece black retaining collar and lift up the star.
The circuit board is located on top of the body under the little black cap. The black cap should pop off with a little coaxing.

Click to expand...

yes, i meant the cr123A model, sorry forgot to put it on the first post, edit later

I unscrewed the head but the reflector/star assembly seemes to be glued in
and where are you supposed to pull from?

Illum_the_nation said:

I unscrewed the head but the reflector/star assembly seemes to be glued in
and where are you supposed to pull from?

Click to expand...

I gently tugged on the spring and mine came out.

i figured out why mine wasnt coming out, the plastic retaining ring opened up on its own, turning thelamp assembly into a elliptical tube and the corner got stuck on the screw down thread.:candle:

opened it up....wow...the luxeon star is soo small....i was expecting it to be bigger

can't find the step up circuitry, im assuming its in the bezel's contact ring.

I resumed to putting the light back together. upon completion...the light stops working
mmm

The step up circutry is in the front of the battery tube. Under the black cap the spring goes through.

Sorry to hear that it quit working. One of mine did the same thing after taking it apart and I don't understand why. If you can't get it working again, mail it back to Dorcy and they'll send you a new one. The one I got right now is about perfect. RXOH bin code lottery winner.

I finally got the right size 1mm thick mineral crystal glass for it today. 20.3mm. I'm thinking I could have gone 20.4mm or even 20.5mm, but this one works fine. Anyone considering doing this, I would order all three sizes and see which one fits yours the best. I put it in and it's held it place with an o-ring from a minimag bezel and the original o-ring that came with the light. I De-Oxed and Progolded the contact. Gonna carry it in a Fenix P1 holster. This light is so cool now!

I bought mine at Target. If you find out the bin code, let us know what you got and where you bought it.

Illumi,
When you lift up the star to check the bin #, you will notice the metal tab that is soldered to the star and points down, away from the star. This is the positive contact and it must be positioned inside of the metal spring that houses the brass piece which is located inside of the spring. You kind of have to peek under the star when you are re-assembling it to make sure the tab is going into the spring. Also check the yellow wire, the negative contact, and make sure it hasn't come loose from the metal ring.

What was you bin?

I bought 2 from target both rxoh's

Mac

Btw, this thing is like a 3 Watt with R123's.

I think it's brighter than my L2T with NIMH's on high, I'm not even joking! And a bit whiter.

I'm kind of worried about burning it out though from using R123's, I don't know what kind of heat sinking it has. So I've only done it once for a short time.

I took a beamshot of my L2T vs. my Dorcy Super 1 Watt. The L2T was on freshly charged (yesterday) Energizer 2500's. The Dorcy was on a freshly charged (a few days ago) Battery Station RCR123A. I measured the voltage of the RCR @ 4.09V after the beamshots and a minute of playing around with them. Current draw (Amps) from the RCR for the Dorcy is about 870mA.

The L2T draws about 670mA from the 2500's.

L2T is on left, Dorcy on right. In the picture, it looks like the hotspot of the L2T is a little bit brighter, but in reality the Dorcy appears brighter overall, because of better spillbeam and wider hotspot. Also the slightly better tint of the Dorcy makes the output more "useful". In other words although it seems brightness sometimes goes down with warmer LED's in comparison to colder ones, the amount of useful light goes up.

The L2T has a violet tint that doesn't really come across in pictures for some reason. I would judge the Dorcy's RCR output similiar to the 42 lumen setting on an HDS U60GT.

thezman said:

Illumi,
When you lift up the star to check the bin #, you will notice the metal tab that is soldered to the star and points down, away from the star. This is the positive contact and it must be positioned inside of the metal spring that houses the brass piece which is located inside of the spring. You kind of have to peek under the star when you are re-assembling it to make sure the tab is going into the spring. Also check the yellow wire, the negative contact, and make sure it hasn't come loose from the metal ring.

What was you bin?

Click to expand...

well, i didnt take a good look at it, i didnt open it all the way in fear that I may break off the positive contact, I got the light back to working again...its an odd procedule, but apparently by dumping the battery out, screw the head on, then add the batteries it works like normal, reverse the process causes the light to flicker or not turn on at all....

im going to dissemble the light completely tomorrow....for now, off to sleep

More beamshots, this to show that the Dorcy lights up a room better:

Fenix L2T on high again


Dorcy Super 1W with RCR battery again



Now let's keep in mind the Dorcy is smaller and lighter.

okay....i cant read bin

thezman, what does

RY0JW-0255294
2905LXHLMW10
LUXEON

supposed to mean?
-------------------------------
from what I learned from Quickbeam...its an R bin, color Y0, and voltage J
thats about it... :thinking:
according to http://home.comcast.net/~theledguy/bin_codes/index.htm
R bin as 39.8-51.7 lumens
color Y0....
J as Vin between 3.27V - 3.51V

okay....then whats the second line stands for?

Binning charts.

http://home.comcast.net/~theledguy/bin_codes/index.htm

Led-Ed said:

Binning charts.

http://home.comcast.net/~theledguy/bin_codes/index.htm

Click to expand...

i've been there
just...Y0 doesnt look that blue to me...

Do any of you guys swap the Luxeon in this light to a nice S bin? It is an easy unsolder and then solder in the new Luxeon, right? Are the results impressive?

RY0JW-0255294
2905LXHLMW10
LUXEON

You understand the important part of the identification numbers (RYOJ). The W stands for white. The only other part of the numbers that I can help with are the LXHLMW1D on the second line, it's a Lumileds product identification number. This code identifies the star as a Lux 1 Lambertian star.
The rest are probably lot numbers and such, identifying when the actual star was manufactured.

interesting....with so much luxeon stars manufactured each day, I knew i'd see a long identification number somewhere, but I didn't expect it to be part of the bin code.

bin code to me was just....bragging rights:laughing:

adirondackdestroyer said:

Do any of you guys swap the Luxeon in this light to a nice S bin? It is an easy unsolder and then solder in the new Luxeon, right? Are the results impressive?

Click to expand...

urrr..mmm
personally Im not good at soldering and my solder irons head is about the size of the LED die, ain't no way I can complete a solder on this little guy without dripping solder all over the place....