Looking for a Surefire... E2e vs. E2L or L2, L4, A2 etc

Black Majik

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Hi guys,

I'm ready to splurge on a Surefire now, this will be my first real flashlight. I've waited a while now, but after reading all the threads and reviews, well...I can't hold the urge in any longer...

The only flashlights I currently have are the MagLEDs (2 3D MagLED, 3C Maglite, 2xAA MagLED, 2xAA miniMag).

I've really grown to like the LEDs, and the 3D MagLED has really good throw and flood, but its too big to carry around for EDC. I'm actually thinking of EDC a quality light now.

What it has come down to is the Elite series: the E2e vs. the E2L. Incan vs. LED.

Some report that the incan doesn't wash out when its still light outside. But then the LED is supposedly better for indoor use. I'm really just quite torn, since I'm really not sure which would fit me better, or really when I'll really use it.

I do like the idea of the LED supposedly being more consistent in output, and possibly better battery life? I have it between the E2E vs. the E2L since they're essentially the same, so it should come down to whether I want an incan light or a LED light. Which would be better for general use?

I got to fiddle around with a E2E at a store yesterday. I shined the light about 5 inches from my hand and the refection from my hand actually made me temporarily blind! The LED never made me feel that way. Up close that incan E2E was amazingly bright!

Keep in mind I don't really want something too big. And I prefer the 2 cell over the E1E or E1L.

And even more confusing is the L2 vs. L4... and then theres the L5 with multi-stage light settings.

The A2 was nice also, nice incan light but I preferred a more output from the LED. I do understand that the LED is the "lower" output setting.

I suppose I'm looking for a light with good hotspot with decent spill so I don't have to move my flashlight because its so concentrated on one spot. Throw would be nice, but not necessary. But it would be a big plus if there was a light that incorporated all three.

Just reading the Surefire website/stats gives me a headache. Buncha mumbo jumbo. :candle:

FLR.com also helped a little, but I figure I ask you guys first before dropping the money on a light.

Sorry for being such a broad "vs." post. The E2 series is my ideal size. I know the L2, L4 and A2 are a bit big for EDC, and that I do agree with.

I guess it comes down to, incan or LED? :popcorn:

Thanks for reading.

-Richard
 
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LawLight

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Re: Looking for a Surefire...

I would go with an A2. A great "all around" flashlight that will give you both incan and also LED use.

Law
 

Flash_Gordon

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Re: Looking for a Surefire...

All good lights and good choices. For your first, I suggest the E2E. Compact size with really excellent output.

I have a lot of lights and a number of SF's. On my belt in a Ripoffs holster, today and every day is an E2E. I also EDC others, but always have an E2E with MN03 lamp. Lots of choices, but always the E2E. A real favorite.

Add a KL1 head and you have an E2L.

No matter what you add later, you will always have room for the E2.

Mark
 

Planterz

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Re: Looking for a Surefire...

The E2E has a nice all-around beam. Throw is respectable for a light that size, plenty of side spill, good sized hotspot. I think you'll like it a lot. The E2E does have 2 disadvantages though. Batteries and lack of regulation. CR123As aren't cheap (even the cheap ones aren't that cheap), and unlike many LED lights, the E2E isn't regulated, which means it dims and yellows out over time.

If you like the bright, incandescent beam of the E2E, seriously consider an A2, even if you're not a big fan of the low LED mode. The A2 has slightly better runtime (to 50%) than the E2E, and better yet, it's fully regulated. Compare the graphs of the E2E and A2 on FLR. Right before the A2 craps out at 45-50 minuets it's still at 100% brightness, and the E2E is at 50%. Initial brightness of the A2 is higher too, so it's brighter all around. And I will think you'll find the LED mode useful indoors. It's not as bright as other LEDs (I think even an Arc AAA outdoes the A2's LEDs), but it was never meant to be. It's a low mode to give you some light, enough light, but not blind you. I'm guessing when you tried the A2, you didn't try it in total darkness. Indoors, in darkness, the LED mode is plenty to "get around", and is nice and floody.

The A2 is bigger/longer than the E2E, E2L, or L4 (but shorter than the L2), but IMO it's better balanced in the hand. The E2/L4 body seems a bit uncomfortably short in my hands, and I don't have large hands. With the E2E you always do have the option of a KL1 or even a KL4 head. I'm not a big fan of the E1L as a pocket light simply because the clip location makes it extremely bezel-heavy in the pocket (a Vital Gear FB1 body would be much better).
 

meat

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For EDC, I would do an E2L, because it is smaller than an A2 or L2 and it is regulated (I believe). The A2 and L2 are great lights also, but they are a little long IMO for EDC.
 

carrot

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I would suggest you get the E2e and run the heck away from CPF!

Or, you could splurge a little more and get the A2, which I consider to be my perfect flashlight. It's fairly small, and the two levels of light output are just right. Low is good enough to navigate by, and high is great for spotting things.

The L2 isn't a bad choice either... dual level output lights rock!
 

a99raptors

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One thing you should realise is that there is no one light that fits all situations. Each comes with its own advantages. Secret Service might prefer E2e. Campers might prefer E2L.

E2e:
Tactical Level Output
60 minutes
Smaller than E2L

E2L:
30 Lumens
Throws just as well as the E2e, but with much less surrounding light.
3 hours max output, 3 hours diminishing.
LED is generally more reliable than bulbs, but bulbs are no slouches either.

However, bottom line is that they are all great lights.

I second what Carrot said up there. Get one and get the hell away from us. Save Yourself!!! It's Too Late For Us! :grin2:
 

marxs

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if your looking for a light that has a good hotspot and decent spill, and throw is not necessary, i say go for the L4. its LED (from what i gather you'd like more) plus its a flood light but it throws quite well for a flood (15'-20' maybe). the only downside is youll have only one brightness setting. the L2 is a better candidate with 2 brightness settings and its brighter by a small margin, but at the expense of length.

now if your looking at an incan (which i believe still rules outside), id say go for the e2e. its small and perfect for edc, and throws quite well for its size. do note like what the others have mentioned above, its not regulated (meaning after a while the beam will seem yellowish) and you only get one type of light pattern. now if i were to help you and your looking at the e2e, you might want to consider the a2 since the beam is more or less the same, its regulated (white and bright for the length of the batteries) and you get the additional benefit of having a low level flood beam from 3 LEDs, which i consider is just the "right" amount of light for any task at night.

oh decisions decisions...didnt your mama tell you not to go roaming around cpf!? :grin2:

mark
 

Culhain

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Once you have the SureFire E2 body you have lots of options. Change bulbs to turn the E2E into the longer running, but dimmer E2O Outdoorsman, or add the KL1 or KL4 LED head. Pick up a one cell body and you end up with even more options. All for the price of one flashlight! :lolsign:
 

Black Majik

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Thanks guys for the input!

I really want a E size light, but I'm also interested in the A2 now also. I was set on an E2L, but part of me tells me that an incan light would do me well also. The E2E is the smallest of the three I'm really considering (e2e, e2l, A2).

Maybe I'll just have to get an A2 and a E2L down the road. :grin2:

One question though, I saw that the A2 was a twisty tailcap. The one I played with at the store required the user to click on the light. Half click for LED, full click for "high" beam incan. Anyone able to explain this to me how this would be a twisty tailcap vs. a clickie tailcap?

Dang, now I'm more lost than ever.

A2: Most options, highest incan output, but most expensive. I do like the dual incan/LED feature
E2E: Smallest of the bunch. I was really impressed by the light output at close distances, which partially blinded me.
E2L: E series size with LED, which admittedly, is what I prefer.

Dang.... I'm so lost. They all look good. :laughing:

Is the difference between the L2 and L4 the different head? I think the L2 is longer, why is that? Since they both use 2 cell batteries?

Thanks guys.... (back to researching). :candle: :)
 

Planterz

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Black Majik said:
One question though, I saw that the A2 was a twisty tailcap. The one I played with at the store required the user to click on the light. Half click for LED, full click for "high" beam incan. Anyone able to explain this to me how this would be a twisty tailcap vs. a clickie tailcap?
You're correct on the operation, except that it doesn't ever "click". Push in a bit for LED, push in further for incandescent. Using either with the rubber push button requires constant pressure. Or, twist the tail cap inward for constant on.

There's several types of tail switches that Surefire makes. Some are momentary/twisties. These are usually on their "tactical" or "combat" lights, like the C2, M3, etc. Pushing the rubber cap turns it on as long as you hold it, or you can twist it in for constant on. Some are "tactical" clickies, meaning you can turn them on momentarily with a soft push, or click it on for constant-on. No twisting necessary. The E*L, E2E, and L4 all use this tail cap (although older versions had a tactical twisty).

The L1, L2, and A2 have a 2-stage twisty switch as described in the first paragraph.
 

Planterz

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Black Majik said:
Is the difference between the L2 and L4 the different head? I think the L2 is longer, why is that? Since they both use 2 cell batteries?
The L4 head (which is just a KL4 module) is similar to the L2 head (same reflector, LED, body, etc), but the KL4 has all the "brains" inside the head, while the L2's "brains" are inside the body. Not sure why this was necessary, as 2-stage circuitry should be able to fit, but the way they went was to put the L2's "brains" inside the body. Which makes it longer. The switch is also longer, probably because the 2 stage switching mechanism (seperate from the electronics) takes up more space as well.
 
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