UxxJ Lux III in SLPP 4AA

Has anyone tried replacing the Lux I in the SLPP 4AA with a UX0J/UX1J Lux III?

What modifications have to be made (if any) to the circuit?

Re: UxxJ in SLPP 4AA

I'm hoping somebody answers this :rock: I had the same question with regard to the SL propoly 3C

Tachy

I think someone asked about modding them before,
the bad thing is the reflector is attached to the module,
and doesnt seem like its going to come off without a fight

~John

It's able to be done, but there is a chance that the light will be destroyed in the process of disassembling the relector/module. It is a very tight press fit.

I took mine apart after it stopped working and it was not much fun, and I'm the kind of guy that enjoys taking stuff apart.

I think the lower part of the assembly which is the heatsink can be heated with a hot air gun, this should cause it to expand which will make the separation easier. This is theoretical i'm not sure it would work for sure though

Tachy

yes... the hot expand cool contract thingy.

anyone have access to liquid nitrogen and hot air gun?

it just may work...

Since the stock Led is a LuxI, driven at about 350mA and the U-bin's current is binned at about 700mA, it needs to modify the light engine. So I guess you will not gain visible brightness at the same current.
Perhaps it could be useful to change the stock Led against to a S-bin, but you have to test the voltage at the stock Led to find out the right vf.

Best regards

____
Tom

Hi Long John

My SL 4AA draws 500 ma, measured at the battery end. The SL 3C draws 780 ma from 3 cells and 1.3 Amps from two cells!

I think the SL 3C will be a better candidate for this mod. Imagine what this light could be with it's deep reflector and a Cree XR-E LED driven at close to 800 ma!

Tachy

Tachyon said:

Hi Long John

My SL 4AA draws 500 ma, measured at the battery end. The SL 3C draws 780 ma from 3 cells and 1.3 Amps from two cells!

I think the SL 3C will be a better candidate for this mod. Imagine what this light could be with it's deep reflector and a Cree XR-E LED driven at close to 800 ma!

Tachy

Click to expand...

Hello Tachy, off course , the idea to swap the ermitter isn't bad, but don't forget, since these lights are not direct driven, measuring the current at the batt.-end isn't objective, because the driver needs also power.

Best regards

______
Tom

I accidentally pulled the head module of my 4AA apart the other night. The reflector just popped out of the plastic base, giving me a heart attack. I actually did not look at how the LED fits in there as I was in a hurry to put it back together.

Could you tell me how to repeat this accident and still get the light to work? I've been trying to do that for some time now!

Tachy

Honestly I don't know how it happened. I assume that by freezing and then boiling the flashlight in the process of trying to open it (the threads were horribly jammed because I did not lube them), I weakened the adhesive that holds the reflector/LED assembly to the plastic base. Then, when I did open it, I just tugged the reflector and it popped apart.

There are two wires going from the circuit board in the base to the LED, which resides in a metal cage with four holes in the bottom. You can see that the Luxeon is mounted on a star in there. I don't know if this piece unscrews from the reflector or if it is press fit or glued or what. But they are two separate pieces.

Thanks for the info Ikonomi.

From what I can make out the reflector assembly is press fit into a heatsink. The plastic assembly holding the regulator circuit is glued on to the heatsink. So even if the plastic assembly was separated from the heatsink there still remains the task of separating the reflector assembly from the heatsink in order to get at the LED inside.

This looks like a real tough one! Hope some of the experienced modders on the forum can come up with a good idea to get at the LED.

Tachy

I tried prying the heatsink from the reflector just now and it did not work. I don't know how you'd get this one open. It looks like a tough nut to crack, as it were.

The heat sink will have to be heated with a hot air gun or something similar so that it expands a little then prying might work!

Tachy