mag leds current and what this might mean

yellow

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Hi, Sorry if there is a tread on this topic. Dont remember reading one, and also was not able to find one, so ...

got my 2 AA and 3 AA Magleds. Inserted NiMhs and have the lights running for about an hour now.
measured current from the batts, which is
2 AA: 360 mA
3 AA: 700 mA

what does this mean (to me)?

I am used to work with Badboys and Luxeons, and thus I know: if using 3 NiMhs in series, the current from the batts is about equal than the current to the led, if using just 2 AAs, the ratio is about half.
So I "think", my 3 AA is getting what I am usually pumping into a Lux III (almost as much) and output is much less than it should be (but tint is good).
The 2 AA is way underdriven, but does a good job (except for the blueish tint)

Anybody else got these readings?
 

Nereus

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Espoo, Finland, Northern Europe
I have no experience in Magleds but my Minimag modded with Badboy NG750 and Lux3 pulls 1.2 amps from the nimhs. So if you are seeing roughly 0,4 amps from two nimhs, that's one third of my figure which provides the led with 750 ma. Dividing 750 by 3 gets 250 mA to your led.

Remember, this is a very rough estimate but in any case your ~250 mA output current to the led seems to be a very low. There may be a thermal sensor which decreases current when led gets hot. You can find one in 2D-6D magleds, but I dont know if this is the case with AA Mags as well. If you can measure substantially higher input amps immediatly after turning the (cooled) mag on, there might be a thermal sensor that have dropped the input current to 360 mA.

-N
 

Lit Up

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Jan 8, 2006
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1,231
yellow said:
Hi, Sorry if there is a tread on this topic. Dont remember reading one, and also was not able to find one, so ...

got my 2 AA and 3 AA Magleds. Inserted NiMhs and have the lights running for about an hour now.
measured current from the batts, which is
2 AA: 360 mA
3 AA: 700 mA

what does this mean (to me)?

I am used to work with Badboys and Luxeons, and thus I know: if using 3 NiMhs in series, the current from the batts is about equal than the current to the led, if using just 2 AAs, the ratio is about half.
So I "think", my 3 AA is getting what I am usually pumping into a Lux III (almost as much) and output is much less than it should be (but tint is good).
The 2 AA is way underdriven, but does a good job (except for the blueish tint)

Anybody else got these readings?

Visually speaking, I would concur with your findings.
 
Joined
Feb 14, 2006
Messages
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yellow said:
Hi, Sorry if there is a tread on this topic. Dont remember reading one, and also was not able to find one, so ...

got my 2 AA and 3 AA Magleds. Inserted NiMhs and have the lights running for about an hour now.
measured current from the batts, which is
2 AA: 360 mA
3 AA: 700 mA

what does this mean (to me)?

I am used to work with Badboys and Luxeons, and thus I know: if using 3 NiMhs in series, the current from the batts is about equal than the current to the led, if using just 2 AAs, the ratio is about half.
So I "think", my 3 AA is getting what I am usually pumping into a Lux III (almost as much) and output is much less than it should be (but tint is good).
The 2 AA is way underdriven, but does a good job (except for the blueish tint)

Anybody else got these readings?

It means that the 3AA will be approximately twice as bright as 2AA.
See my testing:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/132215&highlight=brightness
 

adnj

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Aug 13, 2006
Messages
699
Nereus said:
I have no experience in Magleds but my Minimag modded with Badboy NG750 and Lux3 pulls 1.2 amps from the nimhs. So if you are seeing roughly 0,4 amps from two nimhs, that's one third of my figure which provides the led with 750 ma. Dividing 750 by 3 gets 250 mA to your led.

Remember, this is a very rough estimate but in any case your ~250 mA output current to the led seems to be a very low. There may be a thermal sensor which decreases current when led gets hot. You can find one in 2D-6D magleds, but I dont know if this is the case with AA Mags as well. If you can measure substantially higher input amps immediatly after turning the (cooled) mag on, there might be a thermal sensor that have dropped the input current to 360 mA.

-N

I don't understand... If the batteries are in series, then the current is constant thoughout bout V is not (could be slight/significant differences due to battery condition). Total current may not necessarily be supplied to the LED unless it is directly driven, which it is not. How much current is being dumped by the regulator circuits that are being used?
 

CM

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Sep 11, 2002
Messages
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Location
Mesa, AZ
Current is not constant to the LEDs. If it was, then the output would be flat. If you look at all the runtime plots that's been posted, output is always dropping. I know that the 2AA uses the Zetex circuit which is not *really* constant current, but rather it is a voltage multiplier circuit. It supplies roughly 250mA to the LED and drops as input voltage drops. Efficiency is probably 70%. BTW, the circuit in the 2AA is at least five years old. My first mod used the same exact circuit--from Zetex's data sheet :D
 
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adnj said:
I don't understand... If the batteries are in series, then the current is constant thoughout bout V is not (could be slight/significant differences due to battery condition). Total current may not necessarily be supplied to the LED unless it is directly driven, which it is not. How much current is being dumped by the regulator circuits that are being used?

Regulator circuit doesn't "dump" current. Active converter changes RMS voltage by switching regulation.
 
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