How do you get the Dorcy 1AAA open?

KDOG3

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I picked up one of the Dorcy 1AAAs' yesterday at Walmart, luckily I got the older reflectored version thats' brighter than the new ones.... I would like to get the head open to get to the emitter. Doesn't want to unscrew by hand. I look down the battery tube and I can see the electronics. So how did they get it in there?
 

NutSAK

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There is loktite (or similar thread locker) on the threads of the head. Apply some heat with a heat gun or hair dryer and unscrew. You may need to use something to increase torque as Geoff mentioned.
 

KDOG3

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Got it, marked up the head. But nothing a Sharpie can't fix. Or another trip to Walmart ;) .

Now to just get a few of those Nichia 5mm LEDs from the shoppe... As far as they go, how do you know which is the positive or negative on those? Or does it matter?
 
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thelightdude

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I use 2 vice grip pliers with a paper catalog (like Sharper Image) wrapped around the head and body. It comes off with very little effort. Be sure to unscrew counter-clockwise. I have done 6 lights this way. It doesn't leave a mark because of the thickness of the catalog.
 

coldsolderjoint

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remove the rubber grips, put on leather gloves myself, and i use the finger of another leather work glove, and a vise grip around the bezel. along with a heat gun. i use a big "beater" knife to put in the oposite end slots for tourque. Although I think maybe a sturdy metal ruler or something else could work.

If you go back and theres alot of the reflectorized versions, let me know
 

KDOG3

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I may go tonight. I'll grab all the reflectored version I can find. I have 5 of the Nichia's on the way from the shoppe.
 

Hondo

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I wrap a bunch of heavy rubber bands tightly around the head and body to add diameter and grip. Then if I still can't get it with my hands, I wrap a piece of leather over the bands on the head and grab that with pliers. I've used heat too, but these look dry now, so I don't know if that really helps much. Gerber IU's and Sonics are glued, and extreme heat is the ONLY way they will give.


The long leg is the positive leg, but after trimming the legs to length, you will need to go by the flat spot on the edge of the LED, which is on the negative side.

Hondo
 

TooManyGizmos

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:):grin2::)

..... Once you get the head un-screwed .........

Here is some information about removing the lens from the head.

There are also many other old but helpfull threads to search for on modding this light.

They make good neck/lanyard lights for bathroom visits .

................................ TMG/:grin2:
.
 
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thelightdude

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Hondo said:
I wrap a bunch of heavy rubber bands tightly around the head and body to add diameter and grip. Then if I still can't get it with my hands, I wrap a piece of leather over the bands on the head and grab that with pliers. I've used heat too, but these look dry now, so I don't know if that really helps much. Gerber IU's and Sonics are glued, and extreme heat is the ONLY way they will give.


The long leg is the positive leg, but after trimming the legs to length, you will need to go by the flat spot on the edge of the LED, which is on the negative side.

Hondo

I did a Gerber IU without heat using the method I described in my previous
post above. They are indeed glued. The dorcy twists off instantly with no effort using this method.

By the way - try an MJLED in the dorcy AAA. It makes a great, bright flood beam for about $12 total.
 
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Hondo

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Yeah, I guess I worded that too strongly. It would be more correct to say it can greatly reduce the force required to open the IU when heated. I was able to do several well-epoxied ones without tools when I heated them way up with a heat gun. Did need work gloves just to keep from burning my hands, though.


Did one Dorcy with the SMJLED. A real "wall of light", but not much throw. Just the ticket for walking, where the hotspot is detracting from being able to focus on things in the spill. Should handle the high drive current of the Dorcy better than most 5mm LED's, too.

Hondo
 

thezman

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Here's another option.

MORE INFO


aaa.jpg
 
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