Opening a KL5...update: Opened!

Has anyone been able to successfully open a Surefire KL5 to replace the LED? If you have, please outline your steps here. Thank you.

Re: Opening a KL5?

I wantta know too.

Re: Opening a KL5?

Wow! I guess no one has been able to open up a KL5? Tam, weren't you the one who purchased my L5?

Re: Opening a KL5?

I'm curious to know about this too...

Re: Opening a KL5?

Yes, and used it for 1.5 to 2 hours a days for almost 3 years, but at that time the L5 is bright, now compare to my WWOS U2, the L5 is not so bright any more and kindda green, so I wantta open it and put an X bin in it.
Anybody know how to open the KL5?

grnamin said:

Wow! I guess no one has been able to open up a KL5? Tam, weren't you the one who purchased my L5?

Click to expand...

Update: I got a new style KL5 today. It looks just like the latest version of the KL3, on the outside, at least. I attached it to a G2Z and, as I proceeded to remove it from the G2Z, I noticed that it wasn't coming off, but that the upper main bezel was unscrewing from the lower part that houses the threading. It was secured with red Loctite, but there didn't seem to be enough to secure it. Since the tint was already nice and white, I decided to just shim the bezel. No more donut! Will post pictures later today.

Cool. I had an L5 (new style) awhile back. I managed to get it open as well but didn't see anyway to really mod it.

I'd like to get you to mod my U2 when I get a WWxx bin emitter. But I'd like to know how you get the head off - heat gun and strap wrenches? The head won't get scratched or marred will it? I'm just worried about my "precious". I'm also wondering if its possible to remove the lens and blow out the dust off the reflector and inside of the lens.

I recently got a KL5 for my Centurion C3, powering it with a pair of 17500s for a lot of bright, white, guilt-free lumens - I haven't used the original P90 LA since. My KL5 has a donut but I'm alright with it.

I was using my C3+KL5 for a ten minute span and it was getting a bit toasty, expectedly, so I cooled the head off under some running water. Sometime later, to my surprise, I noticed condensation on the inside of the lens and reflector. I figured that, since the head wasn't waterproof, I decided to break the bezel's Loctite seal and let it dry out.

In a small pot, I boiled around 3/4" of water, just enough to submerse the bezel (as I didn't want to risk getting its electronics wet) and held the tip in the boiling water for around 2 minutes. I was then able to unscrew the bezel with a rubber jar lid remover and a bit of manual force to get past the Loctite, which appears to be gray on my unit. I then let the lens and reflector air dry. Probably voided my KL5's warranty in doing this - ah well.

I noticed, after the fact, that nowhere in the KL5 description and specs on Surefire's site does it mention that the KL5 is waterproof or weatherproof, so from this point on, I'm avoiding getting my C3+KL5 wet. Great combo for my use, nonetheless.

Here are the pictures:





KDOG3, just PM or email me.

Nice pics, gnarmin

Those boys at Surefire sure do put things together well....

grnamin,
nice pictures.

did SF do anything new to the lens
or is it the same flat lens?

grnamin said:

KDOG3, just PM or email me.

Click to expand...

HEheh

super64 said:

grnamin,
nice pictures.

did SF do anything new to the lens
or is it the same flat lens?

Click to expand...

Thank you all for your kind remarks.

You know, I completely forgot what shape the lens is! I'll check when I get home and report back.

BayGleam said:

In a small pot, I boiled around 3/4" of water, just enough to submerse the bezel (as I didn't want to risk getting its electronics wet) and held the tip in the boiling water for around 2 minutes. I was then able to unscrew the bezel with a rubber jar lid remover and a bit of manual force to get past the Loctite, which appears to be gray on my unit.

Click to expand...

That sounds like the same technique I use to open up L1 heads, KL1 heads, and Z57 clicky switches. I'm not sure if it works because the heat breaks down the loctite, or if the aluminum in the bezel expands faster than the rest of the head, breaking the seal. I'm guessing the latter, since I've usually been able to get away with less than boiling water (merely very hot) and only thirty seconds or so of dunking. Your mileage may vary.

Where did you place the shim exactly to rid the L5 of the dreaded doughnut, I have an L4 and was thinking i could handle putting a shim in it.

Weskix said:

Where did you place the shim exactly to rid the L5 of the dreaded doughnut, I have an L4 and was thinking i could handle putting a shim in it.

Click to expand...

I put a shim in the form of a stripped copper wire (better heat induction than a rubber o-ring) between the LED recess and the mounting screw holes. I found that with the KL5, shimming noticeable defocuses the beam and diminishes it, unlike with the U2 where the beam isn't that much diminished upon shimming.

I like the KL1-R much better than a KL4. The former has no donut.

Thanks, nice work.