MagLite dead NIB

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
I heard Target had good prices on 4D MagLite, and since I was contemplating doing another conversion with some cool things added, I headed there.

They had about the same selection of LEDs as Home Depot, or Chimart. The price was indeed around $17 for a black 4D Maglite with the old style incan bulb. They had both black and silver. (The 3D LED version was $35.) So I got the 4D incan and the first thing I did was I put the MagLED unit into it, and it failed to turn on.

I spent the next 30 minutes trying to get it work, trying new batteries, a conventional bulb, a Krypton bulb, etc. Nothing worked! It is totally dead, and I don't know if it's the switch or something else.

I will have to exchange it. I don't know how often this happens, but first time with me.

FYI
 

will

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 14, 2004
Messages
2,597
Make sure the tail cap is fully screwed on and clean, The elecrical path is made through the silver area there, If the maglite is black - it is easily seen.

If you have a multi meter you can check out the switch.
 

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
1) The cap area is clean, the spiral is made from some kind of yellow looking metal, not silver like in an older 4D I have.

2) I have a Multimeter, but don't know how to test the switch. If you can post a pic where I should plug the pos. and the neg. wires to, I will do so.
 

Lit Up

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 8, 2006
Messages
1,231
Did you try the incan bulb as well? Different batteries? The 4 cell version of the drop-in?
 

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
Yes, I tried the incan bulb as well, and a Xenon, as I said above. I have an indentical, but older 4D and everything works in it. This proves there is something specific to this new Lite which doesn't work. Probably the switch is faulty.
 

DonShock

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 28, 2005
Messages
1,641
Location
Belton Texas
To test the switch with a multimeter, just do a continuity (resistance) check. Most multimeters have a "beep" setting for this purpose. Just put one lead on the spring where the battery normally touches and the other down in the center of the bulb socket (bulb removed). You should see continuity appear and disappear as you cycle the switch.

You may also want to check that the pointed setscrew in the center of the switch that holds it in place is actually piercing the anodizing on the inside of the light. If it hasn't been tightened down enough to pierce the anodizing and make contact with the aluminum body, you will loose the negative path through the switch. You can test this with the multimeter by connecting between the outside of the bulb holder and the bare metal edge at the tailcap end. This should show continuity with the switch on or off.
 

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
I did this test and surprise, the switch works. The same way on both 4Ds I have. It's not the switch, the batteries, or the tail cap, it's something further down the line. I think the bulb is getting the juice to it, theoretically, well the multimeter pointer was. Maybe the tolerance are off and it doesn't get the electric?

I cleaned inside where the bulb goes to no avail.

Same bulb, same LED, same Xenon all work in the other Mag I have.
 

DonShock

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 28, 2005
Messages
1,641
Location
Belton Texas
Another possibility is that the bulb is not making contact with the center positive of the bulb holder. Do a voltage check between the center and the side of the bulb holder. If you have voltage there, the Mag would be OK and the power must not be reaching the bulb. I have had a problem with older mags where the spring under the bulb holder got weak and when the light was tipped head down, the bulb holder lost contact with the switch. If the center of the bulb holder is not rising all the way up, it may not be making contact with the bulb. Try inserting the bulb without the retaining collar. If the center tip is making contact, as you insert it you should feel resistance as the spring starts to be depressed before the shoulder on the bulb hits the outer edge of the bulb holder. If the shoulder hits first, you're not making contact in the center of the bulb holder.

Also check the long metal strip between the metal bulb holder and the plastic slotted riser of the switch. It should have a slight bow to it so that it maintains contact with the metal bulb holder as it slides up and down.
 

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
I will check if the metal piece inside the bulb holder is perfectly centered
 
Last edited:

DonShock

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 28, 2005
Messages
1,641
Location
Belton Texas
It should be perfectly centered with a little black plastic ring insulating it from the outer metal of the bulb holder. It is actually a metal cap on top of the spring and fits up inside of the plastic piece. If it's cocked sideways, it could not be rising up into the black plastic part so never gets high enough to reach the bulb. If it is cocked far enough, it could actually be shorting out against the outer part of the bulb holder.
 

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
Looking inside the bulb holder, it is perfectly centered actually with no discernable anomalies.

Running the test, I am getting 0.06 to 0.02 V inside that bulb holder. I set the V to 2V on the multimeter.

I ran the same test on my other, working 4D Mag and got a higher voltage, It went to 0.8V and then quickly dropped to 0.2V.

Definitely something happens when I turn it on. But the bulb doesn't glow at all.
 

will

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 14, 2004
Messages
2,597
I think DonShock has covered everything - probably time to return the maglite.
I had a problem awhile ago with a battery, the one that would be closest to the switch. this was an older battery that had been kicked around quite a bit. It tested at 1.5 volts. turns out the 'bump' on the positive end had caved in just enough to prevent it from making contact with the small bump on the switch.

Have you tried swapping each part to the maglite that works? IF something is defective when that piece is put in the working maglite - it will stop working...
 

Illum

Flashaholic
Joined
Apr 29, 2006
Messages
13,053
Location
Central Florida, USA
first time hearing about a dead maglite...

my 3D flickers sometimes when i tap [not click] the switch after a pretty good fall on concrete:ohgeez:...

hook up a multimeter to the tailcontacts using a long screwdriver and alligator clip to the bulb contact and test for resistance of the switch...i find the switch on the mag to be most prone to damage :thinking: oddly enough...
 

jwl

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 5, 2005
Messages
307
Location
Kansas
Did you check to make sure there isn't any excessive anodizing left on the end of the body where the tail cap make contact? The edge of the cap has "teeth" that when tightened down against the body scrapes the anodizing off and makes a connect. The last Mag I bought took some screwing on and off several times before I got a good enough electrical contact for the bulb to light.
 

mtnwalker

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Feb 2, 2006
Messages
69
I have an older and a newer 4d Mag. The bulb holder is different on the older one from the newer one. The newer one has a copper colored spring loaded contact inside that bulb holder tower, the older doesn't move inside the tower and has the black plastic surround around the actual contact spring. Not sure which design I actually like better.
I think I'd just return it, it's brand new right? Easier to take it back to the store than ship it back to Mag huh?
 

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
I got a replacement 4D Mag which works beautifully with the LED. I cleaned all the contacts just in case.

Moral of the story: Check your equipment before you leave the store, even if it's supposedly from a quality maker.


Now I got to figure out what to do with it, leave the MagLED in it or come up with a custom design.
 
Joined
Feb 14, 2006
Messages
2,724
etc said:
I got a replacement 4D Mag which works beautifully with the LED. I cleaned all the contacts just in case.

Moral of the story: Check your equipment before you leave the store, even if it's supposedly from a quality maker.


Now I got to figure out what to do with it, leave the MagLED in it or come up with a custom design.

Duds happens to every company. How much gets into the consumers hands of course depends on the level of quality control.
 

Brighteyez

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 5, 2005
Messages
3,963
Location
San Jose, CA
I guess this isn't the right time to tell you that you could have gotten a 4 cell Mag LED for 29.97 at Home Depot?

Actually, I'd suggest the 3 cell, they seem to work better for me than the 4 cells. They also seem to fare just a bit better on flashlightsreview.com as well.

etc said:
I got a replacement 4D Mag which works beautifully with the LED. I cleaned all the contacts just in case.

Moral of the story: Check your equipment before you leave the store, even if it's supposedly from a quality maker.


Now I got to figure out what to do with it, leave the MagLED in it or come up with a custom design.
 

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
I already had the MagLED conversion unit so buying just the shell made sense. Price wise it came out to the same thing.
'
Plus, I am considering making a custom lite out of it.
 
Last edited:
Top