SuperTorch
Enlightened
Well Well Well The Task Force has another major secret that I'll share with you that I just found out.
It's one of the easiest modable flashlights there is, and the basic first time moder can get it done with a little effort and time.
I just realized that the TaskForce 3W Luxeon is built on the Luxeon Star Form Factor which means you can buy higer rated Luxeon Stars and almost do a drop in(You will actually have to solder a little bit). Task Force owners get ready as this is going to get fun.
I didn't realize until I had the TF3W a little while that you can get the LENS assembly off.
Here are the pics of the TF3W broken down.
And to my suprise I see a Lumileds Luxeon 3 Watt "Star". hhhhhhhhhhhmmmmmmmm............................that kind of looks like I could buy a Luxeon 5W Star or this New after market(Not made by Lumileds) K2 7 Watt Star http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=2213&link_str=&link_catg=&partno=05027-PW14 and remove the 3 Watt star and drop the new one I bought, with a touch of solder here and there and VIOLA I have a 120 Lumen 2 Cell Compact falsh light.
Now I'm going to leave it to the experenced moders which I'm not, to futher suggest/make points and Ideas. I know the TF3W is regulated and that may be a problen if the regulation only lets the new Luxeon 5 Star get 1000ma, because then its going to burn at a 3 Watt output, but I'm not sure thats how the regulation works and I really think the Luxeon 5 Star will just pull the 1500ma needed to be at full brightness and you'd have less battery time than the Luxeon 3W Star the TF3W comes with..
Now its my Opinion that the Luxeon 5 Star is a much better fit then the Luxeon K2 Star even though the K2 Star is rated a tad higher output because I've read here at CPF the K2 Star will get really hot and drain batteries 25% faster than a Luxeon 5 Star and all you get is supposedly 10 more lumens out of the K2. So I guess it is better stated that the Luxeon 5 Star(Actully made by Lumileds just like the Luxeon 3 Star in the TF3W) is just more of a legit 5 watt where the K2 is a overpowered 3 watt that gets much hoter than the Luxeon 5 Star. The Luxeon K2 Star in my link looks like a very nice LED made on aluminum ready to be heat sinked right in place, so I'm by no means rulling it out, its just that we all know the Luxeon 5 Star is a true Luxeon 5 watt LED geing an efficent 120 lumens out the star set up.
There is some confusion on the Luxeon 5 Star because evendently there is a "Portable Version Luxeon 5 Star"(whatever that means) Part Number:LXHL-LW6C that it says only last 500 hours and the normal Luxeon 5 Star Part Number:LXHL-LW5C that last 100,000 hours. They look identical but the part number for the LXHL-LW5C seems harder to find.
Lambertian(DOME STYLE) is what you want not the side emmiters.
The TF3W even has enough space for you to swap out regulators if one was really curious and wanted to put in a higher qaulity regulator or if the TF3W built in regulator has limitations of how many mil amps it will allow to flow in which case you would need a new regulator to push the TF to new higher levels. Drivers(Regulators) are easy to install also as they just set in between the cicuit two wires(one positive + and one negitive -) on each side of the circuit so you just cut out the old and connect the new, but like I said I'm 99.9% sure the regulator inside the TF3W will allow the 1500ma that I think the Luxeon 5 star draws(I'm not sure on this either and feel free to correct me). The K2 does use 1500ma so I just asuming that is about what the Luxeon 5 Star uses. If you wanted too you could just cut out the regulator and go Direct Drive Current.
The TF3W lens looks like a FRAEN brand lens at least from the design of it. http://www.luxeonstar.com/category.php?id=121&link_str=121 . I'd bet a dollar that Lowes just bought these off the self from FRAEN or a simular lens supply company and its not a special made lens(I could be totaly wrong though). If they did then with some effort you may find lenes that you can swap out to be either Spot, Medium or Flood. The selection in this link will not fit the size of the TF3W they look like they were diesigned for more CR123 applications and are only .5 to 1 inch diameter where the TaskForce has about a 1.5inch diameter head, but all though I didn't search hard you may find a supplier of lenes with the exact spect of the TF3W for and easy swap out and could own all 3 beam types, if you look at the link you will see they are only $3.50ish each so $10 would buy you all 3 types. With very easy swap out unscrew the old lens and scew in a new one with the beam pattern you want.
Last thing that should be noted is when looking at the Task Force 3 Watt lens while it is on the flash light(flashlight off) – it looks all most mirrored or has a reflector in it(but it doesn't), it wasn't till I got it off that I realized it was a Focusing Lens(Remember I said it was thick looking and taped like glass, well now I see why its almost and inch thick). But what you will notice once the lens is off is that the Luxeon 3 Star inside and part of the heat sink chamber are uncovered(not that they shouldn't be) and that if you wanted to cover those with a mylar mirrored circular cut out it could only improve the beam charteristics of the light maybe not by much but it for sure wouldn't hurt and it may help a ton with artifacts making a beutiful projected beam the TF3W already has potentialy MUCH better. If you look at the TF3W very close with the lens on you will be able to read the Luxeon wrighting on the Luxeon 3 Star inside and will realize you can see everything the LED is siting in and with a perfect cut mylar covering that would have to make the beam very artifact free or at least vastly improved and SO easy to do.
You'd need a solder kit from Radio Shack $7.99 with a Solder Braid(VERY HANDY) that sucks the old solder up like a paper towel does a drop of water you put the braid on top of the old solder at the connection then the soldering iron on top of the braid and it will heat trough and melt the solder and the braid will suck it up very cleanly(the point is you want to buy some Solder Braid FOR SURE). You will also need some heat sink adheasive to attach the new Star to the heat sink you pull the old one from, and this is where I'll let the pros tell us what to get, I know Siver Artic for the PC is a killer type of thermal transfer heat sink putty but I don't think it has adhesive properties. Also with the right heat sink putty you can do a much better job than the facoty at geting the LED to transfer heat to the outside walls of the flashlight to be dispersed.
The Lens actually is self seating and you dont want to glue the heat sink to its chamber walls, as its made to move up and down and seat with the lens, so just take a look and you'll see its a 1,2 3 type of mod. Buy new higher power Luxeon Star – remove old Luxeon Star – put in new Luxeon star. With the most basic of soldering skills one can do it, just keep track of the positive and negive connections(already maked on the Luxeon inside the TF3W) and put them in the same place on the new one, and your pack'n a 120-130 Lumen Task Force Luxeon 5 Star light, grab you some high qaulity Titainum NiMD 5000 rechareable C cells and you really rockin. Off regular C cell you should get about 3 hours of light with 2 being full brightness if my earlier test were right which a got about 5 total with the 3 Watt.
Also keep in mind that since the STAR format is so common that with each advancement of LED power you will most likely be able to get the Newest High Power Star and Drop it in, you have a light that can upgrade with every new Luxeon Star Upgrade. That pretty cool if you think about it, say they release a Luxeon 10 Star in a year or two with 200 lumens just but it and swap it out. Very Sweet.
2nd New TF3W in hand and parts will be on the way with the biggest issue being do I want to spend $27.50 for a true Luxeon 5 Star or just the $8.50 for the very nice looking after market K2 Star. Pro modders out there for the money which one should I get, the K2 looks good at that price, but price is no object, I just want to have a Bad A** C Cell light.
It's one of the easiest modable flashlights there is, and the basic first time moder can get it done with a little effort and time.
I just realized that the TaskForce 3W Luxeon is built on the Luxeon Star Form Factor which means you can buy higer rated Luxeon Stars and almost do a drop in(You will actually have to solder a little bit). Task Force owners get ready as this is going to get fun.
I didn't realize until I had the TF3W a little while that you can get the LENS assembly off.
Here are the pics of the TF3W broken down.
And to my suprise I see a Lumileds Luxeon 3 Watt "Star". hhhhhhhhhhhmmmmmmmm............................that kind of looks like I could buy a Luxeon 5W Star or this New after market(Not made by Lumileds) K2 7 Watt Star http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=2213&link_str=&link_catg=&partno=05027-PW14 and remove the 3 Watt star and drop the new one I bought, with a touch of solder here and there and VIOLA I have a 120 Lumen 2 Cell Compact falsh light.
Now I'm going to leave it to the experenced moders which I'm not, to futher suggest/make points and Ideas. I know the TF3W is regulated and that may be a problen if the regulation only lets the new Luxeon 5 Star get 1000ma, because then its going to burn at a 3 Watt output, but I'm not sure thats how the regulation works and I really think the Luxeon 5 Star will just pull the 1500ma needed to be at full brightness and you'd have less battery time than the Luxeon 3W Star the TF3W comes with..
Now its my Opinion that the Luxeon 5 Star is a much better fit then the Luxeon K2 Star even though the K2 Star is rated a tad higher output because I've read here at CPF the K2 Star will get really hot and drain batteries 25% faster than a Luxeon 5 Star and all you get is supposedly 10 more lumens out of the K2. So I guess it is better stated that the Luxeon 5 Star(Actully made by Lumileds just like the Luxeon 3 Star in the TF3W) is just more of a legit 5 watt where the K2 is a overpowered 3 watt that gets much hoter than the Luxeon 5 Star. The Luxeon K2 Star in my link looks like a very nice LED made on aluminum ready to be heat sinked right in place, so I'm by no means rulling it out, its just that we all know the Luxeon 5 Star is a true Luxeon 5 watt LED geing an efficent 120 lumens out the star set up.
There is some confusion on the Luxeon 5 Star because evendently there is a "Portable Version Luxeon 5 Star"(whatever that means) Part Number:LXHL-LW6C that it says only last 500 hours and the normal Luxeon 5 Star Part Number:LXHL-LW5C that last 100,000 hours. They look identical but the part number for the LXHL-LW5C seems harder to find.
Lambertian(DOME STYLE) is what you want not the side emmiters.
The TF3W even has enough space for you to swap out regulators if one was really curious and wanted to put in a higher qaulity regulator or if the TF3W built in regulator has limitations of how many mil amps it will allow to flow in which case you would need a new regulator to push the TF to new higher levels. Drivers(Regulators) are easy to install also as they just set in between the cicuit two wires(one positive + and one negitive -) on each side of the circuit so you just cut out the old and connect the new, but like I said I'm 99.9% sure the regulator inside the TF3W will allow the 1500ma that I think the Luxeon 5 star draws(I'm not sure on this either and feel free to correct me). The K2 does use 1500ma so I just asuming that is about what the Luxeon 5 Star uses. If you wanted too you could just cut out the regulator and go Direct Drive Current.
The TF3W lens looks like a FRAEN brand lens at least from the design of it. http://www.luxeonstar.com/category.php?id=121&link_str=121 . I'd bet a dollar that Lowes just bought these off the self from FRAEN or a simular lens supply company and its not a special made lens(I could be totaly wrong though). If they did then with some effort you may find lenes that you can swap out to be either Spot, Medium or Flood. The selection in this link will not fit the size of the TF3W they look like they were diesigned for more CR123 applications and are only .5 to 1 inch diameter where the TaskForce has about a 1.5inch diameter head, but all though I didn't search hard you may find a supplier of lenes with the exact spect of the TF3W for and easy swap out and could own all 3 beam types, if you look at the link you will see they are only $3.50ish each so $10 would buy you all 3 types. With very easy swap out unscrew the old lens and scew in a new one with the beam pattern you want.
Last thing that should be noted is when looking at the Task Force 3 Watt lens while it is on the flash light(flashlight off) – it looks all most mirrored or has a reflector in it(but it doesn't), it wasn't till I got it off that I realized it was a Focusing Lens(Remember I said it was thick looking and taped like glass, well now I see why its almost and inch thick). But what you will notice once the lens is off is that the Luxeon 3 Star inside and part of the heat sink chamber are uncovered(not that they shouldn't be) and that if you wanted to cover those with a mylar mirrored circular cut out it could only improve the beam charteristics of the light maybe not by much but it for sure wouldn't hurt and it may help a ton with artifacts making a beutiful projected beam the TF3W already has potentialy MUCH better. If you look at the TF3W very close with the lens on you will be able to read the Luxeon wrighting on the Luxeon 3 Star inside and will realize you can see everything the LED is siting in and with a perfect cut mylar covering that would have to make the beam very artifact free or at least vastly improved and SO easy to do.
You'd need a solder kit from Radio Shack $7.99 with a Solder Braid(VERY HANDY) that sucks the old solder up like a paper towel does a drop of water you put the braid on top of the old solder at the connection then the soldering iron on top of the braid and it will heat trough and melt the solder and the braid will suck it up very cleanly(the point is you want to buy some Solder Braid FOR SURE). You will also need some heat sink adheasive to attach the new Star to the heat sink you pull the old one from, and this is where I'll let the pros tell us what to get, I know Siver Artic for the PC is a killer type of thermal transfer heat sink putty but I don't think it has adhesive properties. Also with the right heat sink putty you can do a much better job than the facoty at geting the LED to transfer heat to the outside walls of the flashlight to be dispersed.
The Lens actually is self seating and you dont want to glue the heat sink to its chamber walls, as its made to move up and down and seat with the lens, so just take a look and you'll see its a 1,2 3 type of mod. Buy new higher power Luxeon Star – remove old Luxeon Star – put in new Luxeon star. With the most basic of soldering skills one can do it, just keep track of the positive and negive connections(already maked on the Luxeon inside the TF3W) and put them in the same place on the new one, and your pack'n a 120-130 Lumen Task Force Luxeon 5 Star light, grab you some high qaulity Titainum NiMD 5000 rechareable C cells and you really rockin. Off regular C cell you should get about 3 hours of light with 2 being full brightness if my earlier test were right which a got about 5 total with the 3 Watt.
Also keep in mind that since the STAR format is so common that with each advancement of LED power you will most likely be able to get the Newest High Power Star and Drop it in, you have a light that can upgrade with every new Luxeon Star Upgrade. That pretty cool if you think about it, say they release a Luxeon 10 Star in a year or two with 200 lumens just but it and swap it out. Very Sweet.
2nd New TF3W in hand and parts will be on the way with the biggest issue being do I want to spend $27.50 for a true Luxeon 5 Star or just the $8.50 for the very nice looking after market K2 Star. Pro modders out there for the money which one should I get, the K2 looks good at that price, but price is no object, I just want to have a Bad A** C Cell light.
